RB25det BOGS when shifting

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
zippakilla
Posts: 68
Joined: Mon Mar 02, 2009 8:21 am

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RB25det S2 in S13

Godspeed front mount aluminum piping Q45 throttle bodygreddy knock off IMsynapse synchronic BOV (recirculated)Walbro 255 fuel pump

OK my problem is

While driving it likes to bog down I can't even FULL or HALF throttle it. I take off in first gear just feathering on it it builds 7 pounds I try and shift to second and if pretty much falls on its face so I shift to 3 and still nothing I Lightly touch the throttle and it will smooth out. When this all happens it pops/backfires

ANY HELP WOULD BE GREAT.


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Fibre guy
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Joined: Sun Mar 08, 2009 12:57 pm
Car: 91' s13 RB25DET, 95' s14 bone stock, 87' Wrangler 4.6L stroker

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Sounds like your BOV.Do you have only 2 vac lines running to your synapse? The 2 vac lines on the top need vacuum. The one on the side just needs a breather hose so stuff doesn't get sucked in.Also the screw is not supposed to be messed with. Have you pressure tested it for boost leaks yet?Are you sure its the correct timing?

zippakilla
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Joined: Mon Mar 02, 2009 8:21 am

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Timing was dead on when "Darius" helped me with it Brand new timing belt tensioner and idler pulley.

As far as BOV I havent touched the screw on the back the only thing i have done is put it on and hook up the recirc the two on the back one runs to the IM and the other tees on into the same source the other SIDE one is ran into the HOT PIPING. I have tightend all of the clamps on the couplers as tight as i can and i havent done a BOOST leak test yet but have had it in the back of my mind.

Any other Possibilities?

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Fibre guy
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Joined: Sun Mar 08, 2009 12:57 pm
Car: 91' s13 RB25DET, 95' s14 bone stock, 87' Wrangler 4.6L stroker

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Thanks for pointing that out to me... They changed it. In the little book that came with it says "port C (4-5mm ID hose) future reference (empty)". But now on the site it says "boost only source". Bad synapse people...

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240daveTX
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Car: 2005 Nissan Titan LE
1993 Nissan 240SX Convertible

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so you got it figured out?

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Fibre guy
Posts: 712
Joined: Sun Mar 08, 2009 12:57 pm
Car: 91' s13 RB25DET, 95' s14 bone stock, 87' Wrangler 4.6L stroker

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Nico traffic is slow today, did you look at the TPS?EDIT: Also, does it fall on its face if you just let go of the gas a little?If your talking about the boost source only yeah. The site says over 7 psi do it. I'm still breaking my 25 in after the build up and running 5 psi tops. I'm looking at the book that came with it right now... Just as I remembered it says future reference.
Modified by Fibre guy at 11:52 PM 6/27/2009

zippakilla
Posts: 68
Joined: Mon Mar 02, 2009 8:21 am

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I actually change the TPS to the stock one all together and it still wanted to cut out. If say i just push the accelerator in 1/10 it takes off but if i quarter throttle it takes a second then either bogs down or takes off its really really weird and BS at the same time. so 1st gear takes off like a bat outa hell all the way through the RPM band then 2nd pops bang boom doesnt matter how far i have the accelerator in or out but if i throw it in 3rd and just Touch the accelerator it kinda eases out of it.

zippakilla
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Joined: Mon Mar 02, 2009 8:21 am

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So i took out the upper wiring harness re did everything put it back in (i soldered every splice and put in new maf wires *insulated*) now the thing has a crazy idle. I start it and it sits at 1000 then revs it self up to 3000 or so then back down and then back up WTF is wrong with this?

Darius
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Joined: Sun Mar 02, 2003 9:48 am
Car: RB25DET S14 - 665 WHP (SOLD)
Location: Chicagoland

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We took the second spring off of the Q45 TB right? I can't remember. And have you tried to turn the screw on the IACV to lower the idle?

zippakilla
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Joined: Mon Mar 02, 2009 8:21 am

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Ok, I removed the wiring harness replaced those crazy maf wires. Insulated the two soldered all the connections that were spliced in just to make sure they were connected. Put it back in and now the thing idles at a 1000 and revs up on its own to 3000 or so then back down to 1000 and two seconds later its reving back to 3000. Im at a loss

Darius I did remove the other spring. I have not messed with the IACV because its not giving me a steady idle. Before it was idling fine at about 800-1000 or somewhere in there.

Darius
Posts: 4820
Joined: Sun Mar 02, 2003 9:48 am
Car: RB25DET S14 - 665 WHP (SOLD)
Location: Chicagoland

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Try jiggling and moving the new maf wiring when it is running to see if there isn't some weird connection/grounding there. Are you sure you plugged the blue air regulator plug back in good? It is a b**** to get at with those manifolds.

Double check all of your harness plug connections just to be sure.

zippakilla
Posts: 68
Joined: Mon Mar 02, 2009 8:21 am

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Took the IACV off cleaned it a little bit made sure everything was plugged in where it is suppose to go. Still having issues with it this is . Could it be a injector seal leaking now?

rb25det250sx
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Car: '96 Nissan 240SX RB25DET powered!!!
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mines starting to do that to...same exact thing. thought it was the plugs over the weekend, but its not. set gap to .8 and it missed even worse. i think my coils are getting weak! mayb that could be it?

Darius
Posts: 4820
Joined: Sun Mar 02, 2003 9:48 am
Car: RB25DET S14 - 665 WHP (SOLD)
Location: Chicagoland

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You can check for a leaky injector by disconnecting the injector and ignition harnesses and turning the engine over. If the plugs are wet when you pull them, then you might have an issue with the o-ring(s) on that injector. I still don't think it is the cause of the idle surge because that would only cause it to bog a little and sound like it was missing a cylinder. Surging idles are usually the result of MAF or O2 sensor issues where the ECU is trying to compensate.

rb25det250sx - your coil packs have been failing all summer. Replace them or upgrade. I'll sell you my old ones. They should work fine on your setup.

zippakilla
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Joined: Mon Mar 02, 2009 8:21 am

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Ok so heres the deal I feel like an idiot but I did a few things and I hope they work I will find out in a few. But here are the things I have done.

I replaced the BOV oring beings that it wasnt sealing correctly. And made a throttle body gasket due to the fact that there wasnt one.

zippakilla
Posts: 68
Joined: Mon Mar 02, 2009 8:21 am

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Problem fixed. Thanks fellas for the help.

Darius
Posts: 4820
Joined: Sun Mar 02, 2003 9:48 am
Car: RB25DET S14 - 665 WHP (SOLD)
Location: Chicagoland

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So what was it exactly? Was it the missing gasket? That would prove to be a huge PITA once it started to build boost. Or was it just that?

zippakilla
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Joined: Mon Mar 02, 2009 8:21 am

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Well I did three things at one time so its hard telling.

#1 was the wiring harness (changing out those maf wires)

#2 was the BOV it had an o-ring that would slip off everytime I put the BOV on so I just used some gasket maker and sealed it up. (will never leak now)

#3 was the throttle body gasket not being there.

I want to say they were all contributing factors to this BS that I have been going through but now it runs and drives like a champ.

Darius
Posts: 4820
Joined: Sun Mar 02, 2003 9:48 am
Car: RB25DET S14 - 665 WHP (SOLD)
Location: Chicagoland

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Yes dude! All 3 of those could cause major symptomes like that. Glad you got it worked out. Can't wait to see it making it to some local des moines events now!

zippakilla
Posts: 68
Joined: Mon Mar 02, 2009 8:21 am

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Haha I know they could have caused the symptoms. But I never knew there wasn't a throttle body gasket (i didn't put it on or take it off). As far as the BOV it was kind of a safety first i want it to be sealed and wasn't 100% sure it was. BTW thanks darius for having the patience and time to deal with me. Hondas are a totaly different world and well with there only being a certain amount of people around here with knowledge about RB's it makes it difficult.


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