Robert - you'll have alot more sucess in the KA sub-forum zeroforum?id=130Amaya wrote:I had a question?Maybe you can help me. I have a 1993 nissan 240sx se(ka24de) bad engine could I put a 1995 nissan 240 sx engine. Thanks![email protected]
Robert
You are correct that the Ka-T would be less costly. But, I think you've overestimated the cost to install the RB25. It's not cheap by any means, but it shouldn't add up to $7000. I would think $4000 would be feasible... $5,000 with some upgrades. The engine and transmission set can be had for less than $3000 shipped. I have even heard some closer to $2000. But let's say $3,000. Look at another $850 I think for mounts and driveshaft from McKinney, plus another couple hundred for wiring service. Then you can add some other things - fans, fuel pump, boost controller, clutch maybe, etc... Plus maintenance items like water pump, timing belt, tensioner, idler. Another $1000 or so in total.madcowvert wrote:i have been thinking about the rb25 for a while now. i know they have mounts to fit the rb20,25 and 26, but the cost to put the motor in is a lot its about $7000 in the motor and other parts like wireing, drive shaft, mounts, fans, radiator,ect...
you would save alot more money if you would just go ka-t
the motor i can get for cheeap not 1000 but i get the motor for 2000 alot less than a sr.. but all the money gose into buying other partstonynalli wrote:hahahaha 7k...damn too bad you dont have a hook up in miami..i can get rb striaght off the ****ing boat for like ....ohh mabey 1k after taxes..the same ones you will buy but for much less...the motors really dont cost much but their worth is the most expensive part..good luck though
1) you can tuck the ECU in the stock japanese location (in the driver' side dash area) and leave the stock ecu there to control the chassis functions, so that can save you $ on wiring.2) you don't need a koyo.. brass and copper cool better than aluminum anyway. I'd get one of the older brass and copper maxima ones, plenty big enough.3) Hayden 12" electric fans are like 1.5" deep and I use twin ones, they were like $40 each at autozone4) motor mounts are available from places like mckinney that eliminate the need to cut the hood for the stock intake manifold.. you may have to trim the bracing but thats no big deal. 5) walbro 255's are $90 shipped on ebay and will more than suport an rb.6) downpipe- U bends are $20 from summit racing, MIG welding is like $10 a weld at a decent shop. Figure 1 bend and 3 or 4 welds, so you are defintely under $100.7) get the front clip, use the stock side mount intercooler and piping.madcowvert wrote:trust me i have done the math the mackiney mounts are 1,200 shiped with the drive shaft. that 4200 w/motor the you have to get the wireing done 350. then you need to get a radiator and a koyo to keep the big motor cool that 200 then you need to get fans and they need to be slim to fit the big motor that 250 and then you need a intake manifold unless you want to cut your hood up which is'nt bad but not for me 500 for that the you need a fule pump lets say 100 then you need a down pipe so that 250 from mackiney and i hope you have an exhaust or that will be more money then you need to get a front mount and get the custom piping done lets say 700 the you know your going to want a bov so lets add another 150 to that. and then will add another 200 for other stuff you might need..
which bring you to a gradn total of 6,900
now if you pinch your pennys you can probelly get it done for 5,500 saying that you use other mounts like tophat which are 350 and youll need to buy a drive shaft.
i say its very expensive and alot of work.