rb25 pulling timing at 0psi vacume

[jdms13VA]

ok so recently i replaced both knock sensors , my maf sesnor and all my spark plyugs gapped them to .8 (bkr7e) and i have been having problems with my car holding idle. it wont hold udle unless maf sensor is unplugged.... also to mention in the mornings when i start my car up enough to let the oil pressure drop to 50 i take off in my car and it pulls and drives like a bat out of hell. 14psi breaks tires loose everytime it enters boost. but after 10min of my car being started and running when i put the throttle to the floor it starts to pull timing once it reaches 0psi vac. i replaced hte maf sensor thinking that it was my problem. then it didnt solve any issues. then i replaced both knock sensors and that didnt solve the issue . also forgot to mention my car at 65mph my egt is at 1350 my egt gauge is tapped at my 5th cyl runner on turbo manifold. my af cruising is 14.3-14.6 and in boost is around 11.2-12.3
car also if its being drivn around for a while and then i stop it starts to run hot. i have bled the coolant system multple times including sitting it on a steep hill wiht radiator cp as highest point. heat on full blast to get all my coolant hoses filled wiht coolant so i can eliminate heat soak. recently replaced all coolant lines. under intake manifold and all. this car is nothing but trouble lately. thought i had a blown head gasket did a leakdown test and it is not pulling any co2 into coolant hoses. nore does it have any loss in compression it is 140 across all 6 cyl. also when checking tps it is at ..48v and it says factory is .5 . today when driving home i noticed my car doing wierd things after being turned off for less then 10min. i took off and car would take off like ti has throttle being pushed then fall on its face for 2 seconds then take off like nothing was wrong and did it in between every single gear then after drving ten min it didnt do it again. my mane problem is i wanna know what is cuasing car to not hold idle. and what is cuasing it to pull timing and make egt's so high when motor is warm and make my car so fast when its not to hot. lke 60 degree weather in the mornign.
also has 0 vacume leaks.... pressure tested everythign including vacume lines! all the way to my boost gauge and such and had 0 leaks. so this is f*** wiht me really ba dit keeps pushing me in diff directions and has so many problems im trying to fix to have reliable as i can


mods to car are:
rb25det s1
wieseco forget pistons ( factory compression)
manley rods
farea valvetrain
factory cams?
greddy intake manifold
huge fmic
3in cold side chargepiping
2.5in hot side charge piping
hks ssqv on hto side ( non recirc.)
full 3in exhoust
mines tuned ecu
bkr7e gapepd .8
coilpacks are all within close tolerences of .01 ( dont think they r bad but could eb wrong)
rb25det maf
370cc injectors
greddy electronic boost controller
low boost 10psi high boost 14psi
normally drive on factory boost with ebc turned off

also has a/c ( but i never use. tend to keep heat on 2 to prevent any runnning hot )

CAR SAT FOR 2 YEARS BEFORE I BOUGHT IT BECOUSE PREVIOUS OWNER DID A RB20 TRANS TO RB25 TRANS SWAP FOR A STRONGER TRANS

please help me figure out what my problems are . i havnt had this thing running 100% perfect since i bought the car and i really wanna enjoy the rb in my s14

[jdms13VA]

SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME!!!! PLEASE

[mmakam2]

I know this is an old post, but I seem to be having the same exact problem, with almost an identical setup, did you fix your problem yet? I just bought a CAS sensor, after that I dunno what it could be, maybe the ecu or timing belt is off.

[Darius]

The original post sounds identical to faulty coil packs. As soon as it begins to create boost, the coil packs have a hard time igniting the air/fuel especially if the plugs aren't gapped down tight.

I'd start by gapping the plugs down and then test drive it.