RB25 Overheating Problem

[shibbymcpot730]

Hey Nico,

Well I have read the OMG My RB is overheating post. I have currently bled the system which seems to help abit, but after long periods was overheating the engine still. Then we checked to make sure the thermostat was still working and it was. So we checked that both fans were still running and the Primary Fan decided it didn't want to work again(After we have rewired it once).

So we decided to connect the Primary Fan(currently have Two fans one is running and the Massive Primary one isn't) to the Turn Signal circuit which seemed to work for awhile, but again its deciding not to turn on again(No Fuses are blown and wiring is still good).

My question is are there any Dual Fan setups worth looking at buying for a s14 with a RB25 swapped into it, or do you have any other suggestions that we look at to keep the Primary Fan running.

Thanks~Nate

[RPS13-RB25]

for my S13 (it wouldn't make a difference which chassis it was) i have a dual flex-a-lite pusher set up. i have the standard push-in probe adjustable fan controller from Advance Auto ($35). it turns the fans on when it feels that the temp goes above a set number. right now it's set at 160deg. eventually i want to move up to a better thread-in probe, but it works just fine for now.

both fans are wired to the fan controller as a one fan setup so that it turns both on at the same time. if you want, you can use that fan controller to power one main fan and also an AC fan. it has wiring coming out of it for both options.

[s14_sport]

First off , hook up your e-fans properly! I can't stress this enough because a poorly hooked up efan setup wired by our friends over at Low Life Kustomz resulted in a fusebox fire for me.

Bleed the system again....when you think you're done bleed it again!

When you say the engine is overheating...how do you know? are you looking at stock gauge or something else?

What is the CFM rating for your efans? If together they are pushing less then 2500 CFMs then you might as well throw them out.

I've been through all the above and more I haven't even mentioned in pursuit of a happy coolant temp and nothing worked for me until CarlH gave me the idea of actually using the STOCK CLUTCH FAN (who would've thought?!?)....it works.....and works very very well.

F*CK e-fans!

[Darius]

Stock clutch fan would be great to use, but a lot of guys do not have the room.

Yes, the first thing you need to do is rewire the fans for a couple reasons.

1) Trying to pull >10A thru the tiny gauge wiring of the turn signal circuit is not going to yield the power the fans need in order to move the air they are rated for.

2) Trying to pull that kind of amperage thru tiny wiring is going to cause it to heat up and possibly start on fire/melt things like s14_sport is familiar with.

It is so simple to run a 30A fuse between the power terminal in the engine fuse box and the controller with large gauge wire that it doesn't make sense to pull power from anywhere else.

[240z4u]

Check your ign. timing. If its way retarded you will see coolant temps rise too.

[shibbymcpot730]

Check your ign. timing. If its way retarded you will see coolant temps rise too.

I'm actually having the guy who is going to be tuning my car look at that.

First off , hook up your e-fans properly! I can't stress this enough because a poorly hooked up efan setup wired by our friends over at Low Life Kustomz resulted in a fusebox fire for me.

Bleed the system again....when you think you're done bleed it again!

When you say the engine is overheating...how do you know? are you looking at stock gauge or something else?

What is the CFM rating for your efans? If together they are pushing less then 2500 CFMs then you might as well throw them out.

I've been through all the above and more I haven't even mentioned in pursuit of a happy coolant temp and nothing worked for me until CarlH gave me the idea of actually using the STOCK CLUTCH FAN (who would've thought?!?)....it works.....and works very very well.

F*CK e-fans!

As for how do I know its overheating, I am currently using the stock gauge. Which is reading extremely high, we are actually going to be rewiring after reading what Darius and s14_sport had to say.
Modified by shibbymcpot730 at 1:15 PM 8/6/2008

[s14_sport]

good glad you're rewiring....

also you should get a better temp gauge as well. so you know exactly what ur temps are not just the Cold / Hot that the stock provides. I've heard that when it gets to the "H" ur already overheated.

[240z4u]

good glad you're rewiring....

also you should get a better temp gauge as well. so you know exactly what ur temps are not just the Cold / Hot that the stock provides. I've heard that when it gets to the "H" ur already overheated.

Hell yeah it does!

Are you using the RB sender with the KA gauge? You must swap sensors to have the stock dash gauge give accurate info.

Evan

[cb_240]

Hell yeah it does!

Are you using the RB sender with the KA gauge? You must swap sensors to have the stock dash gauge give accurate info.

Evan

found that out the hard way, get a good temp gauge asap, best thing i put in the car to go with the engine. gives me piece of mind while driving

[ANVIL]

yeah the temp in the cluster will stay in the middle in a wide range of temps. while on my pfc it reads anywhere from 65ish-105C (maybe higher, havent went that high) and it still reads in the middle.

[shibbymcpot730]

Hell yeah it does!

Are you using the RB sender with the KA gauge? You must swap sensors to have the stock dash gauge give accurate info.

Evan

To be honest I don't know if I am using the RB sender or not. I'll have to look into that along with buying a temp gauge. Use to think it was a waste of money but now I see the importance of it.

[shibbymcpot730]

So we found out that my Temperature Sensor turned out to not be working properly, so I was wondering is there anyway to get that sensor from like Advanced Auto or Auto Zone or is that a online only part?
Modified by shibbymcpot730 at 11:49 AM 8/7/2008

[ANVIL]

the ecu temp sensor or the cluster temp gauge sensor?

if its the cluster one (the smaller, one wire) then u need a ka one

im not 100% sure but i think for bigger 2 wire ecu sensor is the same as a z32.

[ANVIL]

I've been through all the above and more I haven't even mentioned in pursuit of a happy coolant temp and nothing worked for me until CarlH gave me the idea of actually using the STOCK CLUTCH FAN (who would've thought?!?)....it works.....and works very very well.

F*CK e-fans!

so im curious on what your normal running temp is now with the clutch fan? i normally run in the 80sC while driving and in the low 90s when parked/idling. gets pretty warm when im not moving, im planning on putting in a 2nd efan. did u have to do anything to get it to fit? cuz in s13 theres no way it would fit.

[shibbymcpot730]

its the ecu temp sensor, does it matter what year z32? Also do u happen to have a part number for it?
Modified by shibbymcpot730 at 12:34 PM 8/7/2008

[Darius]

The only way the ECU temp sender will cause the engine to run hot is if it does not decrease resistence enough to make the ECU think the temp is >80C. Colder than 80C and the ECU pulls timing, which could cause the exhaust temps to rise and overall engine temps.

The ECU temp sender has nothing to do with the gauge. The other single prong sender next to it on the radiator neck is what should be wired to the gauge cluster.

[shibbymcpot730]

Well the sensor wiring is completely torn off, thats y we believe the fan wasn't cutting on in the first place. So says one of our other friends so I was just going to replace that and rewire the fans the way they were and see if that solves anything.
Modified by shibbymcpot730 at 1:40 PM 8/7/2008

[Yellow4g63]

First off , hook up your e-fans properly! I can't stress this enough because a poorly hooked up efan setup wired by our friends over at Low Life Kustomz resulted in a fusebox fire for me.

Bleed the system again....when you think you're done bleed it again!

When you say the engine is overheating...how do you know? are you looking at stock gauge or something else?

What is the CFM rating for your efans? If together they are pushing less then 2500 CFMs then you might as well throw them out.

I've been through all the above and more I haven't even mentioned in pursuit of a happy coolant temp and nothing worked for me until CarlH gave me the idea of actually using the STOCK CLUTCH FAN (who would've thought?!?)....it works.....and works very very well.

F*CK e-fans!

Yup Yup I switched over. If you have a S14 and not going to use the A/C then start cutting and move the radiator so you can fit clutch fan.

The S13 prob need more cutting at the bottom vs just the top on the S14. And you need to rill new holes for the bottom of the radiator to mount.

[shibbymcpot730]

Main Fan wasn't pulling air enough to cool car. So we bought Dual Flex-a-lites and now the car is running perfect. We also rewired them and everything.

[gawdzilla]

for my S13 (it wouldn't make a difference which chassis it was) i have a dual flex-a-lite pusher set up. i have the standard push-in probe adjustable fan controller from Advance Auto ($35).

i also have this. it is the FAL brand fan controller. works good but the spade connectors that it COMES with and are what I assume to be rated to handle the amps from the FALs seem to melt to crap. everything still works but its just unsettling seeing the melted stuff. just bad luck or a crappy design from FAL? thoughts?

[Darius]

The dif fan controller comes with the same sort of spade connector so until mine melts, I'm going to assume that the spade connectors can handle the amperage. What other spade connector options are there?

[s14_sport]

so im curious on what your normal running temp is now with the clutch fan? i normally run in the 80sC while driving and in the low 90s when parked/idling. gets pretty warm when im not moving, im planning on putting in a 2nd efan. did u have to do anything to get it to fit? cuz in s13 theres no way it would fit.

with my clutch fan I have yet to see the FULL range of temps. But, idling for 30 mins the temp didnt get any higher then 72C. After driving around and pushing it for 15 mins or so it'll get closer to 80C. After the drive I come back and let it idle for a while longer it will go back down to maybe 75C.

I'm going to hook up one electric fan as a pusher from all the eFan parts I have left and put it on the thermostatic control to come on at 90C just as a safety fan

I used a griffin radiator that I was able to fit underneath my rad support so I didnt have to cut anything much. Just moved a couple things around to make way for it.

I had a similar "RB25 Overheating" post like this one where I posted pics of the mod to make the clutch fan work:

zer...13187

[gawdzilla]

The dif fan controller comes with the same sort of spade connector so until mine melts, I'm going to assume that the spade connectors can handle the amperage. What other spade connector options are there?

none really, i read a bit about ppl removing the plastic off the spade connector and soldering it directly to the controller for a better contact.

the FAL controller tells you to send all of the + fan voltage through the controller. I was thinking about sending just the + voltage for the trigger side of relay through the controller. The relay would then handle the full draw of the fans. This should definitely ease the amp draw through the controller. Anyone done this before?

Does the SPAL controller take the full + of the fans through it, or does it only take a relay trigger?

I'm gonna switch my FAL controller over to just a + relay trigger. That should remedy the problem.
Modified by gawdzilla at 8:09 AM 8/14/2008

[gawdzilla]

I'm gonna switch my FAL controller over to just a + relay trigger. That should remedy the problem.

did this and problem solved. running a thin gauge wire to my controller now, which only supplies power to the trigger side of 2 relays. no more melted wires screw the FAL wiring instructions

[rael]

i have a quick ? hope somebody can help me out,

i had my rb25 for a year know n am running a dual set of pusher fans and today wen i got to work n turned the ignition switch off one fan stay running so i try turning the ignition switch back on till the other fan turned on then shut it off again and that seems to work and turn both of them off. it did it again wen i got home any ideas thanks, by the way my fans r running straight from battery n i have them on all the time wen the car is on, i haven't bout my fan controller yet