RB25 head cylinder re-work and maybe the block question

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
exodus5547097
Posts: 363
Joined: Mon Jan 08, 2007 6:56 pm

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RB25 head cylinder re-work question:

Can I re-work the head to its spec without damaging it and without doing the block?

How far can I hone the cylinder walls?

When I do hone the cylinder walls, do I re-work or hone the block too?


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rotorimp
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Joined: Fri Jul 21, 2006 9:07 am
Car: 02 Xterra, 60 IH Metro
Location: AZ

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Do you already have the motor apart? Is there a reason your tearing it down?

Unless it is worn out I wouldn't tear it apart.

To answer your questions

You can remove the cyl. head and have it reworked and not touch anything but the block deck (cleaning the gasket off)

Honing is something you do to bring the hole into the final spec and prepare the surface for the ring. How much you can do it depends on the spec your aiming for.

Give some back ground for why you think it's all neccessary.

exodus5547097
Posts: 363
Joined: Mon Jan 08, 2007 6:56 pm

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Well I'm a total idiot for this, but I was inspecting and replacing small stuff like the timing belt, driving belts, spark plugs, etc to get the motor running. This is my first motor swap and I want it to make it work on my first try. Besides, I have cleaned out my intake manifold, valve cover, and crap. But do to my school studies, I've left out my motor outside causing iron oxide(rust) and I wanted to know the answer to my previous question. But thanks for letting me know.

Darius
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Joined: Sun Mar 02, 2003 9:48 am
Car: RB25DET S14 - 665 WHP (SOLD)
Location: Chicagoland

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DO NOT PULL THE HEAD UNLESS YOU HAVE TO! Trust me or you will be joining the NRRBA as soon as you do.

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rotorimp
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Listen to Darius. It takes long enough to get these motors in the car not rebuilding the motor. I have been a member of NRRBA for the last two years just gathereing parts and finding time to work on it.

wawazat8402
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Joined: Sun Sep 26, 2004 10:08 am
Car: 89 Sil80- RB25DET

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I guess I should feel lucky, but then again I didnt break down the head. I just removed it to have a couple of broken studs drilled out. Car started back up on the first try. I also opted to go back with an OEM gasket since I dont plan on pushing this engine too hard.

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StricNyne
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ROFLMFAO AHAHAHAH nrrba makes me laugh every time its reference

Darius
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Joined: Sun Mar 02, 2003 9:48 am
Car: RB25DET S14 - 665 WHP (SOLD)
Location: Chicagoland

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wawazat - you can get away with a lot rougher head and block surface with the ever-forgiving organic OEM head gasket. I tried milling just the head with a cometic and it bit me in the a$$ big time. I'm sure you all know the story too well.

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eh?
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Joined: Sat Jan 24, 2004 2:26 pm

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cometic is craphttp://jdm-insider.com/Blogs/E...asket

No wonder there are so many issues with them sealing properly.

Darius
Posts: 4820
Joined: Sun Mar 02, 2003 9:48 am
Car: RB25DET S14 - 665 WHP (SOLD)
Location: Chicagoland

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eh? wrote:cometic is craphttp://jdm-insider.com/Blogs/E...asket

No wonder there are so many issues with them sealing properly.
hahahaha You don't have to tell me that. I bash that damned gasket up and down and all around the internet. I actually called them up and the engineer asked me what motor my gasket was not sealing for (2nd one) and I told the guy and he was like, "OH! I thought you were going to tell me a different motor." I'm assuming the SR20 or something more common.

wawazat8402
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Joined: Sun Sep 26, 2004 10:08 am
Car: 89 Sil80- RB25DET

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Darius wrote:wawazat - you can get away with a lot rougher head and block surface with the ever-forgiving organic OEM head gasket. I tried milling just the head with a cometic and it bit me in the a$$ big time. I'm sure you all know the story too well.
Yeah, your issues with Cometic are actually what swayed me to stick with the OEM for the time being. I didnt feel like trying to find a local machine shop to prep the head and block for a MLS headgasket.


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