RB25 Freddy IM-FMIC / bouncing idle and Overheating fassst

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
HavikRB25
Posts: 22
Joined: Mon Aug 16, 2010 5:34 am

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I installed the IM and a FMIC and when i try to turn over the car it just wont start.. but it keeps turning over.. then me and my buddy saw the ground wire shoot a spark and it gets really hot.. Postive wire being grounded? maybe a broken wire somewhere..? we also hear a clicking sound come from around the injector area or mabye underneath like a wire is arcing
Last edited by HavikRB25 on Sun Aug 22, 2010 4:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.


Cjmartz2k
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Joined: Sat May 19, 2007 1:39 pm
Car: Hunting for a '89 GTR now
Location: Okinawa, Japan

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IM?

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Carl H
Posts: 5985
Joined: Mon Aug 04, 2003 4:09 am
Car: 1995 Nissan 240SX SE RB30DET

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intake manifold...
make sure that some one didnt hook the positive wire to the block...or check to see if the starter trigger is shorting to ground or the starter power is shorting to ground.

HavikRB25
Posts: 22
Joined: Mon Aug 16, 2010 5:34 am

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Thanks, i will look into it today after work.. also i have one more question i believe its called the exhaust cam pcv, i have the intake side hooked up but not the exhaust side.. where should i hook it too

Sil240
Posts: 2973
Joined: Mon Apr 28, 2003 5:26 pm
Car: Nissan S13 "The One Cam Wonder"

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Make you disconnect the battery !!!!!!!!

The exhaust pcv breather goes to the intake pipe if you have the stock piping.

HavikRB25
Posts: 22
Joined: Mon Aug 16, 2010 5:34 am

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... well the car gets no power at all... no eletric at all... 201 807 7159 if you can help :(

HavikRB25
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Joined: Mon Aug 16, 2010 5:34 am

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Alright car is running, now the idle revs are bouncing, we think it might be because the bov since its not recirc.. its also the stock bov we wielded onto the pipe.. could it be couplings leaking or something?

HavikRB25
Posts: 22
Joined: Mon Aug 16, 2010 5:34 am

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Revs are bouncing and it overheats within minutes

rb25det250sx
Posts: 443
Joined: Sat Feb 07, 2009 9:20 pm
Car: '96 Nissan 240SX RB25DET powered!!!
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just wondering where you live? maybe someone could come help you out?

HavikRB25
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Joined: Mon Aug 16, 2010 5:34 am

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im from maine, in VA right now

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RustspecS13
Posts: 928
Joined: Sat Sep 08, 2007 5:30 pm
Car: '74 260z and '88 300zx turbo

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Sounds like you have a big air pocket in the cooling system. jack up the front end a lot and run the engine with the rad cap off and the heat on full blast.

Or get one of these : http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24610-Spill ... B001A4EAV0 I have one and they are amazing.

~Alex

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R32ONP
Posts: 93
Joined: Sun Jun 27, 2010 9:57 pm
Car: R32 Skyline GTS-T
RB20DET
Location: New Zealand

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yea definatly.....is it full of antifreeze / coolant??? make sure u bleed the air pockets out.....are the water lines on the manifold hooked up etc??

HavikRB25
Posts: 22
Joined: Mon Aug 16, 2010 5:34 am

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We think we killed the water pump a line had a kink in it... besides that the car idles fine.. tell boost then trys to blow the maf out of the couplings and starts whistling.. we cant figure out how to get it not to start leaking there

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jey_253
Posts: 158
Joined: Tue Oct 09, 2007 10:19 am
Car: 1990 S13 Silvia Conversion Rb25det

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Is this a blow thru set-up?

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USMCgetsome
Posts: 2030
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Car: OWN S13.5 RB25DET/2003 G35
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POST UP PICS HOMIE!!!! Are u running a KOYO and have electric fans or clutch fan.

HavikRB25
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Joined: Mon Aug 16, 2010 5:34 am

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Yes blow through... yea coolant and fan.. never had overheating issue befor

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yotik
Posts: 777
Joined: Sun Jul 08, 2007 5:14 pm
Car: 240sx Hatch

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RustspecS13 wrote:Sounds like you have a big air pocket in the cooling system. jack up the front end a lot and run the engine with the rad cap off and the heat on full blast.

Or get one of these : http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24610-Spill ... B001A4EAV0 I have one and they are amazing.

~Alex

Yep thats basically what we used at the shop. Worked every time....
or you could buy one of these: http://www.americanautomotiveequipment. ... 2god7wk7SQ

:biggrin:

trynam4size
Posts: 35
Joined: Mon May 18, 2009 8:57 pm
Car: 240sx

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Sorry to bring back this thread.

However I'm currently facing this issue with bouncing idle NO OVERHEATING [At least I don't think I am...]. Any inputs would be greatly appreciated. After the car warms up, the rpms just bounce from time to time. going from 500 to 1500, to sometimes steady at 1000, and at other times 800 to 1800. Again this only occurs after the car warms up. Perhaps it's a leak? An IAC/AAC issue? I'm not sure. I'll see if I can post a video up. Thanks in advance.

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RustspecS13
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Joined: Sat Sep 08, 2007 5:30 pm
Car: '74 260z and '88 300zx turbo

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Did you try topping it off the cooling system? And make sure there are no cracks in vacuum lines and pipes to make leaks?

Still sounds like the coolant temp sensor is bad or not reading coolant.

~Alex

trynam4size
Posts: 35
Joined: Mon May 18, 2009 8:57 pm
Car: 240sx

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EDIT FOR A FIX!!!: Recirc'd the BOV, because it was leaking. Thanks Alex.


Thanks for the reply Alex... I didn't know that the coolant temperature could cause bouncing idle. Nonetheless I will take your advice.

For what it's worth:
- It bounces when in neutral or have depressed the clutch.
- It doesn't occur when I'm cold starting the car, only AFTER the car is warmed up.
- I'll take any other reasonable advice out there. Thanks!!
- BOV does NOT recirc.

~Namco
Last edited by trynam4size on Thu Nov 18, 2010 9:15 am, edited 1 time in total.

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RustspecS13
Posts: 928
Joined: Sat Sep 08, 2007 5:30 pm
Car: '74 260z and '88 300zx turbo

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Still sounds like your coolant temp sensor, I would pull the codes from the ecu and see what that says.

Also try covering the bov opening at idle see if its leaking any. But if that's the case it should do it all the time not just when its warm.

~Alex


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