RB25 going under

[monkeyofdrift]

Sup guys, before I go get the turbo on, I'll list some of the stuff going into the RB25.

~~~Things going on this month~~~

1) Garrett GT3076R A/R of .822) Apexi Power FC3) ARP RB25DET Head Studs4) PE 850cc Fuel Injectors5) Greddy Intake Manifold6) Z32 MAF7) Q45 TB8) Greddy Profec E-01 Boost Controller9) AEM Fuel Pressure Regulator Kit 10) Tial 40mm Wastgate11) Custom topmount Turbo Manifold

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~~~Things Already in the car~~~

10) HKS SSQV BOV11) HKS FMIC12) Dual Fal Flex Fans13) 3" Mandrel bent exhuast w/ HKS High Powered Exhuast14) Tein Flex w/edfc15) Z32 Brake Upgrade16) PowerSlot slotted rotors17) HKS Honey comb Air Intake18) Koyo Radiator

That's it so far, Feel free to add, lol only add parts I really need.As for the head gaskets, I herd I don't need them and I'll be fine with the ARP RB25DET Head Studs (I could be wrong). Trying to see If I really do need the Head Gaskets. also I'm trying to see if those PE850cc fuel injectors will fit onto the Greaddy Intake manifold.

Well thanks for reading and any reply would help me so much, Thanks.

Note: I'm trying to get 450~500hp

[ISUJinX]

You need a head gasket. Period.

It might be the really really really thin metal one, but you need something. Unless your head and block are made out of titanium and you are torquing the head bolts/studs to 2 million ft/lbs :-D.

Other than that, I wish I had the money to get your little toys :-p Project budget build for me!

[monkeyofdrift]

Also if I do decide to get new gaskets,

Greddy 1.0mm metal headgasket for all RB25DET. Factory type headgasket is prone to failure under high boost and race use, change out to the metal type to ensure longterm reliability. Thats what it says on the website,or should I get the,

Complete RB25DE/DET full rebuild gasket kit, includes the following but not limited to: Front & rear main seal, throttle body gasket, intake & exhaust manifold gasket, intake collector gasket, valve cover gaskets, oil pump strainer seal, valve stem seals and many other miscellanenous seals and rings!"what they said on the website"

also for the q45 TB, should I go with the Q45's TB gasket?, I mean this TB is going on a Greddy Intake manifold, or do they make a adaptor.lol, just wondering if I can use the oem Q45 TB gasket.

[monkeyofdrift]

You need a head gasket. Period.

It might be the really really really thin metal one, but you need something. Unless your head and block are made out of titanium and you are torquing the head bolts/studs to 2 million ft/lbs :-D.

Other than that, I wish I had the money to get your little toys :-p Project budget build for me!

I see, but I herd that the RB stock OEM headgaskets could handle more then aftermaket ones (only herd)

should I leave the stock RB's, or get the OEM full rebuild gasket kit, or the Greddy 1.0mm metal headgasket. Thanks for the reply.

[Sil240]

I think you should hook that PFC up First before you do anything.Then change the injectors.Then change the Greddy ITM, Q45TB and Z32 MAF

Then put on the turbo kit.Then get right to tuning

Do you know how to use that Profec E-01??My friend had it and absolutely hated it.Other than the bling factor.But that's what also got it stolen.Dumbasses left the control valve. lolI don't know if he read the whole book, but he said it was really overly complicated for his use.

That's why i just bought a profec B.

[Carl H]

profec e-01 sucks in auto mode, its only good for figuring out where you should start the duty cycles for manual, in manual its awesome...i use mine as my wideband display.

[ISUJinX]

Metal headgaskets will increase compression slightly (smaller clearance between block and head surfaces). This isn't a problem in N/A engines, but too big of a change can cause problems in turbo engines. Granted, this particular change won't affect you too much, but be careful of raising compression too much and limiting the amount of boost you can run. With increased compression, you will have better off-boost power, but wont be able to run as much boost safely. Just food for thought.

Metal headgaskets also require very well machined surfaces. So you better have a really good machine shop. Decking both head and block (to get the really good surface...) will increase compression, FYI, see above statement.

I'd say stick with the OEM headgasket, or go with a reputable company for aftermarket. Personally, I prefer OEM. And always change gaskets during a rebuild... the only ones I ever re-use are the thick rubber oilpan gaskets. Gaskets are cheap, and its better to make sure they are working properly than to have one fail and ruin the engine... cheap insurance if you ask me.

[monkeyofdrift]

Metal headgaskets will increase compression slightly (smaller clearance between block and head surfaces). This isn't a problem in N/A engines, but too big of a change can cause problems in turbo engines. Granted, this particular change won't affect you too much, but be careful of raising compression too much and limiting the amount of boost you can run. With increased compression, you will have better off-boost power, but wont be able to run as much boost safely. Just food for thought.

Metal headgaskets also require very well machined surfaces. So you better have a really good machine shop. Decking both head and block (to get the really good surface...) will increase compression, FYI, see above statement.

I'd say stick with the OEM headgasket, or go with a reputable company for aftermarket. Personally, I prefer OEM. And always change gaskets during a rebuild... the only ones I ever re-use are the thick rubber oilpan gaskets. Gaskets are cheap, and its better to make sure they are working properly than to have one fail and ruin the engine... cheap insurance if you ask me.

I see Thanks alot, So I should just wait then right? until the shop takes apart the heads, So if the headgaskets are fine then just leave them alone?

or everytime the head is removed or worked on, I must replace the headgaskets??? also does anyone know where to get really good metal gaskets, or should I just stick with oem's???

Thanks for the reply.

[kouki-gymkhana]

OK, first of all there are no "heads" on an RB25...There is only ONE head as it is an inline motor. Secondly, if you want to have 450-500whp, changing to an upgraded headgasket is a good move but be warned, to make a metal HG seat properly and not leak, you WILL have to polish the block and the head (which means you will have to remove the engine from the car, most likely.) If you doubt this, ask Darius to tell you about his headgasket drama. Third, if I were in your shoes, I would install your components piece-wise as was suggested above --> install the PFC, run the motor and sort it out for a while, then install the injectors and tune the motor a bit, once it's running well, then slap on that turbo, etc. The point is, if you do it this way you'll have a better sense of what's not working properly since you're only adding one variable at a time, rather than throwing all those parts on at the same time. Just my 2 cents.

BTW, good luck with the build. Let us know if it goes boom because you're not building the bottom end. I know that countless folks have taken the stock block to 400+whp in the past but is seems the lifespan of the engine is measured in months, rather than years afterwards...

Not hating on you at all, just a little word of caution ...

[Darius]

I'm with kouki on this one. With all the crap I went through just trying to get the motor functional, I wish I would have just slapped it in there in stock form to get it running. Then, upgrade to a point where it was necessary to pull the motor to replace the head gasket. Even if you are installing an OEM head gasket, it is probably going to have to be decked anyways because the old one gets pretty nasty and pits the block surface.

JinX - metal head gaskets are not necessarily thinner, but can be and thus retain your static compression. There are varying thicknesses for our application and I don't advise trying to change your compression with head gasket thickness.

[Bluefire]

I think everyone is too paranoid about the headgasket. The original headgasket is still good, so just make sure you clean the block and head real good. Check the clearances with a straight edge to be on the safe side. If everything is within spec, then your ok to use a metal headgasket, I prefer tomei. I've done many sr headgasket changes and I have never had a problem.

And the comment about changing compression is true IF you get the head/block milled or use a different size headgasket. And if you get the head/black milled, just tell the machine shop what size headgasket you are using and they will mill it so you can keep the stock compression.

Also what fuel pump are you running? As for the injectors I would consider another brand. I and some of my friends have had problems with the PE injectors. I would stick either nismo or sard. And fyi 740cc injectors are plenty for your setup

-BLuefire

[ISUJinX]

Ahh thanks guys. I guess I've never seen stock size or thicker metal headgaskets, only the super thin ones.

Bluefire - you re-use head gaskets?!? Or am I reading that wrong? Maybe I'm just paranoid

[wawazat8402]

Deatschwerks makes a drop-in 740 for your application. They will fit perfectly into your Greddy IM and will use your stock fuel rail and stock injector harness. Also, the flow report that comes with the injectors can make it easier for your tuner to have an idea of how to tune each cylinder based on how each injector flows.

[Bluefire]

Ahh thanks guys. I guess I've never seen stock size or thicker metal headgaskets, only the super thin ones.

Bluefire - you re-use head gaskets?!? Or am I reading that wrong? Maybe I'm just paranoid

No if your previous headgasket was fine, as in with the motor still together, then the block and head are usually straight and don't need to be milled. Once you pull the head off, the stock headgasket will come apart rendering it useless.

And yes all companies make metal gaskets in different thicknesses. I would go with the 1.2mm headgasket if your block and head are within spec

-Bluefire