RB25 Dry sump setups

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
Jimefam
Posts: 403
Joined: Tue Jun 12, 2007 7:16 am

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I wanted to see how much info I could gather about dry sump settle for our cars. I'm going to be putting together my setup now and figured no point in reinventing the wheel. So let's see'em I'm particularly interested in where and how to mount the pump any existing brackets that would work. I did search but found only one thread where RBtally had a few pictures up but not enough for someone with as little knowledge as me to piece it together. Thanks


bmxarmy
Posts: 254
Joined: Tue Oct 12, 2010 7:27 pm
Car: 1961 AMC Rambler

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quick bump...... I wouldn't mind a little incite into this subject as well.

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StricNyne
Posts: 3725
Joined: Thu Oct 30, 2003 1:11 pm

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well, ross makes an adapter to run one with their crankpulley, i know a couple peeps have done them diy style

Jimefam
Posts: 403
Joined: Tue Jun 12, 2007 7:16 am

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StricNyne wrote:well, ross makes an adapter to run one with their crankpulley, i know a couple peeps have done them diy style
Yeah I have the race balancer and will be ordering the dry sump pulley soon. I just need to figure out how to mount the pump and what people have done to the oil pan to scavenge it and how to disable the existing pump area and so forth. I will try to piece stuff together in a DIY type kit as I've found a few but they range from 5.5k-9k! RBtally said he got his done for about 2k and I'm down to spend a little more than that(inflation) but those kits are crazy. I can't believe with all the oil issues these engines have I would think dry sump would be a popular upgrade.

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StricNyne
Posts: 3725
Joined: Thu Oct 30, 2003 1:11 pm

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well most of the oiling issues come from high revving ( either cracking pump gear, s*** crank coller, spun bearing, or too much oil in head and not enough in block). Even if you look at alot of the big dawgs. with the rb28 strokers (those guys rev to like 9-10k) they just run a good oil pump(stroker kit comes with good crank snout), oil pan baffling, and thats it. I would say drysump is not tooo practical for a street car ( alot can go wrong) but definately a worthy investment just a lot of work. I talked about it with RBtally and JonPowell a long a** time ago. I am running a N1 Oil pump, i did the tomei oil restrictor, and stock baffling in my rb25 oil pan and i think i am doing pretty good on my setup, and it was under 1k

bmxarmy
Posts: 254
Joined: Tue Oct 12, 2010 7:27 pm
Car: 1961 AMC Rambler

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how likely is an issue going to arise if your not bouncing of the rev limiter all day long? I plan on running my rb to like 6500-7000 on occasion while showing off to a friend or something, but that is about it. It will more likely be driven "daily" ish. I want to hold of on major upgrades like a crank collar until I do a major over haul on the block.

Jimefam
Posts: 403
Joined: Tue Jun 12, 2007 7:16 am

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No if your revving that low I wouldn't even think of something like a dry sump. With an N1 pump you'd be fine but the crank collar is cheap insurance if you can do it. I'd like to be able to rev much higher as I'm doing the solid lifter conversion and alot of work to the head. I guess just not that many people have had a need for it here in the US. I might post the same ? On the skylines Australia forum and see if I have better luck. I'll report on here that way it will be easier for someone else to find the info in the future.

Jimefam
Posts: 403
Joined: Tue Jun 12, 2007 7:16 am

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Just wanted to update this thread since I've had so many issues finding useful info. Here are some components I've received in the last few days. I happen to have a great fabricator near by me who makes some great oil pans for other engines and I dropped off my oil pan and A/C bracket to have them modified. Heres what I got:

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The peterson tank is a 2 gallon one and between this and the oil cooler and 6' -16 AN lines feed and scavenge lines for the tank and the remote filter and the scavenge lines off the shallow sump I should have over 3 gallons of oil in the system which gives me comfort since I will have quite a buffer in case high g's cause it to suck air. The pump is a barnes 5 stage and should be plenty. I'm still waiting on the sandwich plate for the remote filter and the lines and fittings. I should have the pan and bracket done in a few weeks as he is pretty backed up but I'm in no hurry as the engine is still at the cryo facility. I'm basically making this up as I go along so any suggestions or if you see something that doesn't make sense point it out!


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