The best I've been able to find RB20 piston for is just under $800. Then it would still need machine work, head gasket, ect. I've seen RB25 long blocks for $900 and less. If it didn't need custom rods or pistons all you would have to do is replace main bearing and you got a better head and bigger bore for less then new piston in the rb20.themadscientist wrote:Why? If you 400hp or less just build the 20 and roll.
What? How does that make an RB33? You get .8 liters of displacement from replacing a head?rbforsale wrote:if your trying to do a hybrid rb,why not a vl comodore rb30det head on and rb25 block and make an rb33et
rbforsale wrote:if your trying to do a hybrid rb,why not a vl comodore rb30det head on and rb25 block and make an rb33et
Depends on the RB25 block. I believe the N/A blocks do not have the vct oil feed to the head cast in.RB25's have a few variations.Sil240 wrote:What head would you use though??
Going the 26 head route means drilling and threading for larger head bolts.The RB30DET guide here...http://www.geocities.com/rb30_twincam/has some photos of the oil feeds.Sil240 wrote:OH really...Didn't even think about that.Well is the oil feed in the block circular?, because you could maybe just plug it.
But thinking about it now.You would have to use the 25 head, or maybe the 26. but the 26 is a little harder to find, plus more $$.
Use the RB20 rods and source some factory RB24 pistons from The Philippines.Not sure about the piston oil squirter's on the RB25DE.jdmser wrote:So the rb25de block and head would be a go? What rods would be needed? Does the rb25de come with piston squiters?
Oh, and if the rb25 is anything like the ga16 in regards to the vct all I would have to do is replace the cam gear with the intake cam gear from the rb20.