RB20DET starter woes

Post by **McAdam** » Wed Jul 23, 2003 4:07 pm

hey all, I am putting the finishing touches on SpecV-5150's car here and I have ran into a little problem.....

the engine won't turn over with the key, but I can get the car started by jumping the starter with a big screw driver, whats the deal? I am using the KA alternator and starter harness, which I dont see is a problem. I mean a starter is a starter and an alternator is an alternator.

all the plugs for the alternatior line up and the positive wire for the battery bolts on to the starter, I switched the plug end for the starter selinoid (sp?) No go. possible clutch safety switch? does the oil sensor have to be hooked? what about the transmission swiitches or the speed sensor? any help would be GREATLY appreciated!!

sorry for the long post.

McAdam

Post by **spec-v5150** » Wed Jul 23, 2003 4:07 pm

Oh and the turn signals dont work either.........

Post by **RubHamuSan** » Wed Jul 23, 2003 4:07 pm

most likely it's the clutch button just reach under and tap it with your hand. then crank.

Post by **Bryson** » Wed Jul 23, 2003 4:07 pm

I know this is the wrong post for it but damn spec, I am proud of you man that was fast, like what 2 days you got it in and running? not bad, props to both you and McAdam.. I'll go back to waiting for mine.......................................................................................................................................................................................................yep still waiting...............................................................

Post by **Nismo241** » Wed Jul 23, 2003 4:07 pm

Did you wire the starter up???? YOu have to use the RB starter harness to wire it the way I did, and same goes for the alternator. You can't just plug the alternator and starter in with the RB harness and expect it to work. They both have to be wired up.

Post by **spec-v5150** » Wed Jul 23, 2003 4:07 pm

Bryson wrote:I know this is the wrong post for it but damn spec, I am proud of you man that was fast, like what 2 days you got it in and running? not bad, props to both you and McAdam.. I'll go back to waiting for mine.......................................................................................................................................................................................................yep still waiting...............................................................

Thanks for the words but most of it goes to McAdam. He put in LONG hours for this even while i was at work. I did do a little, but ****. And a nother guy did do some good work with the intercooler piping. That **** was/is hell

NIsmo241: I think we will try this today. If not, It'll have to wait until I get back from vacation. Thanks a bunch man. I appreciate your help tremendously

*enough **** sucking now...gotta go to work*:D

Post by **JonPowell** » Wed Jul 23, 2003 4:07 pm

Make sure that you have the power feed hooked up, I did had the same problem at first. There is a plug with 2 wires, a black & yellow and a white wire. The white has constant power, even when the key is off, and the black & yellow is your starter feed. This is on the KA engine compartment harness. Run your feed wire from the starter into the black/yellow on that plug and it should be good. The other alternative is to check continuity between the ignition switch and your starter and if it is broken runa new line. The other thing is that there are 2 plugs in the column that could plug into your ignition switch, one is for the back glass defroster, see if you switched them, I did at first.

Post by **McAdam** » Wed Jul 23, 2003 4:07 pm

thanks for the words of advice, I'll check all this stuff. as far as wiring, here is what I did......

I used the KA harness for all the starter and alternator stuff. I mean, the positive cable just runs between the positive terminal and the starter, so thats that, no matter what harness you use. And none of the RB fuse block plugs are used, so I saw no reason to use that harness.

I'll check the starter switch. It acts like the clutch safety switch is not engaged. when you turn the key, one of the relays in the relay box by the drivers side headlight clicks, but thats about it. I tried pushing the switch by hand and starting, but no go. time to break out the multi meter!

on a side note, it does run, and it runs quite nice. just have to plug a few vaacum holes and it should be all good. Damn, I miss my 280zx, straight sixes are teh bomb!

McAdam

edit: if the starter selinoid was going out, would that have an effect? about hallf the time when I jump it with the screwdriver, it will just spin, no selinoid action, it doesnt engage. maybe I'll get the stock KA starter and see if it works.....

Post by **PROJECTRB240SX** » Wed Jul 23, 2003 4:07 pm

YES, IF THE SOLINOID IS BENT OR BURNT OUT IT SHOULD JUST CLICK LIKE 3-4 TIMES.

Post by **PROJECTRB240SX** » Wed Jul 23, 2003 4:07 pm

WHAT HAPPEND WITH THE HOOD?

Post by **JonPowell** » Wed Jul 23, 2003 4:07 pm

What car are we dealing with here?My car has nothing related to starting on the drivers side relay box

Post by **McAdam** » Wed Jul 23, 2003 4:07 pm

the car is a 1990 S13 hatch. I wired in all the RB computer/EFI stuff without a problem. got fuel pump and everything. just havin trouble with teh stupid starter.

McADam

Post by **JonPowell** » Wed Jul 23, 2003 4:07 pm

There are 2 wires going to the starter if I remeber, a feed and the signal. If you can short it with a screwdriver, your feed is ok. It's gotta be the switch, Did you have the cluster out of the car, check the plug for the defroster and see if you switched them like I did

Post by **McAdam** » Wed Jul 23, 2003 4:07 pm

cool, I'll check that. He (specV5150) took out the dash and cluster to put in a DOHC cluster. don't know if he touched the column or not. I am heading out to work on the car in a few minutes here. I'll give it a whirl. hopefully we can test drive today seeing as how I have to leave tomorrow.

I am now leaning towards teh RB20DET for my '90 hatch. this swap was fairly easy. only thing extra from replacing the stock motor was a few wires and the front crossmember. oh yeah and the IC piping, that was kind of a ***** too, thank god for grinders!

McAdam

Post by **spec-v5150** » Wed Jul 23, 2003 4:07 pm

Spec-v5150 didnt replug anything as I dont have a dash on. I ripped all that **** out and didnt plug anything back in. I can double and triple check though.

Post by **spec-v5150** » Wed Jul 23, 2003 4:07 pm

musicsurfman wrote:WHAT HAPPEND WITH THE HOOD?

The front of the RB where is says RB20 (timing belt cover???) is hitting. We can better tell once the hood is latched back on. We were thinking of just riding with the hood one click open until I get an CF hood or cut the skeleton....I still have the grinder my friend let us borrow so I may work on it tomorrow or when I get back from Sunny San Diego. 619 represent!!! LOL

Post by **JonPowell** » Wed Jul 23, 2003 4:07 pm

We used a cutting wheel for my hood. Worked pretty easy, just go slow. It's not so easy to put the metal back.

Post by **JonPowell** » Wed Jul 23, 2003 4:07 pm

Here is a pic of what we cut out

RB20DET starter woes

RB20DET starter woes

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