rb20det question and stuff.

[kevy8up]

OK. My goal is to have between 300 and max 400. therefore i prolly dont need the RB25DET. Which is why im leaning toward the RB20. 1)will the transmission be able to handle this? Will the transmission be able to handle this better if i get like a 4 puck clutch kit or something like that.

Now since i will upgrade turbo and maybe FMIC later on in the year or even next year. what should i add to this engine NOW to get the best potential. just a few things to name off.

Better exhaust, turbo downpipe, better clutch kit, bigger intake,

maybe SAFC or wait till later?

[Imissmyturbo]

Well If your goal is 300-400 HP I would do a clutch now and Exhuast. If you want to hit your HP goal you will need another turbo (An RB25 may get you close to the 300-235 mark) but most likely you will want to go with a T3/T4 Get one with a 50 trim compressor, a .63 exhaust with a stage 3 wheel. Get one internally gated so you can use your stock manifold. I wouldn't bother with a DP yet (You will probably have to change it over when you upgrade your turbo).A FMIC would be a nice upgrade that you could do now. And if you have the money get an APEX power FC.

I can't tell you much about transmission strenght but I know the RB20 and KA24 are close to the same so it should be ok for 350-400. And a clutch won't make a transmission stronger. If anything it will make it weaker. A strong unsprung clutch will allow much more shock on the transmission internals then a street disk clutch.

[kevy8up]

if i did an FMIC now...wouldn't i need a different intake mani? or could i just have piping made to work with the stock intake mani. hmmm

[themadscientist]

RB20 and 25 kits have to route back over the top of the engine. It sucks but unless you have a cusum upper itake fabricated that's what you have to do. If you want the transmission to last stay away from unsprung clutches for the reasons already outlined. If you will ba using the RB20DET transmission it will survive living behind a 300hp engine.The RB20s run hot so I would spend the money getting a quality three core radiator and replace the water pump. A metal head gasket is good insurance and easier to do on a palatte than in the car and a new timing belt should be put on. a set of GT-R injectors are a good upgrade and will be able to support your poer goals. the 20's 260s will run out of steam in the upper 200hp range. the Power FC for the RB20 is a power excel dealer only item, hard to get. If you want it you better start E-mailing Apex USA now.

[kevy8up]

whats wrong with the Safc....especially compared to the power fc? is the laptop thing too expensive or is the power FC just easier?

[themadscientist]

The RB20DET comes stock at 215ps (metric hp, lets call it 210hp) I have set up several 250ps RB20s with just an SAFC but you want between 300 and 400hp, IMO piggyback tweaking astock computer to run that is risky. The maps are designed for a stock motor and are less than ideal for maximum performance. The higher in power you deviate from stock the less margin for error you have. intercepting and disguising signals at those power levels sounds like a recipe for trouble. It wouldn't scare me to try but I can get another engine for $100.00 in an afternoon you can't. The power FC still retains the OE sensors but is infinately more flexible than just an SAFC. A standalone would be ideal and a basic system like and SDS is comparable in price and a better system, I would reccomend that.

[Imissmyturbo]

As for the intake manifold I have done some research on the Skyline boards from Ausrtraila and the stock Intake manifold is good to 400 hp. (RB25) I am guessing the RB20 is close to the same. Anyways they also went on to say that aftermarket IM don't distribute the Air evenly so you have to over fuel some cyl's to makeup for the extra air. With the money saved not getting an aftermarket Intake you can put it towards somthing else (Greddy E-manage) would be one thing to get instead of a PFC and is better then a SAFC. Don't forget an upgraded MAF.

[Yellow4g63]

http://forums.fastfours.com.au...69971 RB25 PFC used in R32 GTS.

[themadscientist]

Well Apex does make a Power FC for the RB20DET but it has to be purchased from a Power Excel dealer.

Regarding the Haltech, I just scored an E6K new in the box froma guy who got scared after reading the instructions. I have been too busy to try hooking it up on my Skyline but I have been pouring over the manual and here is what I am getting.

there are two injector channels with four drivers, one ignition channel and two output channels. It looks to me like I cannot run either sequential injection or ignition. The best configuration I can get is a three channel wastespark system using the ignition and two output channels and run the injectors in multipoint(all fire at the same time) I would like to be able to time each cylinder's injection and ignition event independently but the E6K won't allow it. I have a freind who says his Electromtive TEC3 will but he is loath to try. standalones are a little more expensive but much more flexible than the power FC.

[Yellow4g63]

Are you talking about the APengineering PFC for the RB20? or is this a new one Str8 from Apexi themself?

[kevy8up]

well...here is what i have in mind for the first part of my swap.

RB20 clipsteering rack(my car needs it)upgraded exhausttiming beltwaterpumpRadiator(maybe koyo)clutch kitmetal headgasket(boost gauge or turbo timer..not sure which one)

kyb adj'sH&r springs

Stage 2 for my car comes later this year or next year.550 InjectorsFMICt3/t4 turboPower FC?....still not sure...that thing is expensive!

thats just the run down that im working on doing in the next couple of months. IF u think i should add or subtract something...feel free to reply

[93RPS13]

does E-manage work with the RB20DET, like where can i get the adapter wiring harness? Also what is a good turbo that will make around 300hp with good response? thanks

[themadscientist]

i just tried to use one on my RB20DET but I have XP on my laptop so i couldn't talk to the unit. Greddy doesn't make a jumper harness for the RB20 so i took an HKS Fcon harness and hacked that up. You could order the Greddy harness for the RB26 and change the wires around to the 20's pattern.

[93RPS13]

will it work good or iffy, also i tried looking up harness but there something wrong with http://www.takakaira.com website does anyone know any where else to look? Thanks

[kevy8up]

BUMP........I wanna know about the mount crap in this thread. Ive read about it in other threads but none specifically made for the RB20.

I read it does but somehting has to be turned around can anyone confirm?

[Wulfgang]

What "mount crap?" I see nothing about mounts in this thread. Could you be more specific?

[PROJECTRB240SX]

I THINK HE MEANT ANOTHER THREAD.

[this240guy]

after reading this thread most of my questions were answered here instead of the one i posted! i guess its because someone else came in and asked a different question.

well anyways my goals are similar to kevy8up's goals.

themadscientist -- you suggested to get a new radiator and replace the water pump and also a metal head gasket. Also a new timing belt?

upgrading the headstuds?does arp make headstuds for the rb20?

what else can i do before the engine is swapped to make my life easier.

i'll proply go the same route as you kevy8up. and i am set on a rb20det. my financial aid check is coming and im selling my civic so i would have about 5k-6k to spend!

And the 240 is resting at my friends house! i got it for $400 from my ex-girlfriend! LOL

[this240guy]

Anyways they also went on to say that aftermarket IM don't distribute the Air evenly so you have to over fuel some cyl's to makeup for the extra air.

is that true? does anyone have any evidence or reseach to prove this? because according to what he says, all honda, srs, rb26 and etcc with intake manifolds that allow the 1st cylinder to recieve air first is inefficient...

[themadscientist]

The RB uses bolts not studs and i have never seen a stud kit for it. I'm sure somewher somebody makes one but it's not really needed the stock bolts are fine. If I was in the states looking at a frontcut with an RB in it to go into my 240 I would do this;

Pull the oil pan and valve covers, look for sludge or evidence of excessive wear. Crusty and or goopy sludge is a "do not pass go,do not collect $200" affair, the motor needs a complete overhaul. If you have a clean head and some junk in the pan you should be ok, clean the pan and bolt it back on with new sealant(they are siliconed on from the factory). The valve cover gaskets and rear halfmoon seals should be replaced.

Replace the water pump, it needs it just do it now or you will hate yourself inevitably. replace the timing belt, tensioner and idler. You will be tempted to reuse the pulleys, don't, a locked up bearing will really ruin your day so just replace them. If you want to be nifty and you know how you could get some adjustable cam gears and degree in the cams but that depends greatly on how anal you want to be. It's not needed but it's a good thing.

Replace the front and rear main seals. They need it, it's stupid when they leak and it will piss you off so replace them now. Replace the pilot bushing in the rear of the crank. They rarely go bad but cmon they are like $5.00 and the damage to you transmission bearings if it goes south makes it worth the 15 minutes to pop a new one in there.

Now, head gasket. If you are going to run around with a stock turbo and plan on doing a rebuild before bolting on anything bigger leave the OE gasket in. Now if you got a hot little T3/T4 screw ready to go might as well step up to a 1.2mm stopper type head gasket from HKS or Greddy or Tomei. Bead types are cheaper but they are only marginally better than stock. If it's worth taking the time to do it it's worth doing right and with a top rank gasket you will likely punch a hole in the piston before you pop a head gasket. Now if you do the gasket use a machinist's straightedge and check the head and the block for straightness, RB20s run notiously hot and the head might have been warped in it's life. If you have to deck either realize you will be raising the compression ratio so be aware you might have to go thicker on the gasket to keep the ratio you want.If you do the gasket it will give you the opportunity to look at the pistontops and combustion chambers, if they are carboned up clean them and if you are so inclined you can have a laundry list of nifty work done to it but to drop $1000 in headwork and not overhaul the bottom end would be stupid, use your own judgement on that.As I mentioned the 20s run hot so stepping up to a quality radiator, at least a two core is a must. Once you have the engine in the car you should do a compression check and make sure the cylinders are reading even across the motor and not amazing low.A series of oil changes to gently flush the motor out are next. I use a decent dino oil, a little thin so it can get in there and carry the crud out into the filter. I am against motor flush as it is too agressive and you run the risk of breaking loose huge chunks of crap that could plug an important oil passage and make you sad.After it's all cleaned out you can start using good quality oil and begin your intervals as normal.

[this240guy]

great post!!! thank you thank you thank you!!! i am going to copy and paste that and make a list of "things to do before swap"once again thanks "themadscientist"

you :ylsuper

[Yellow4g63]

Are the part #'s for the Tensioner and Idler in the Sticky?

[themadscientist]

happy to help;)