Rb20DET overheating

[DRFT10]

First time poster long time listern..

Hey Guys and Girls. Iv made a venture from the www.nissansilvia.co.nz " TARGET="_blank">http://www.nissansilvia.co.nz

To try and get some answers, I have a small problem....

Well only small cause it hasnt blowen up JUST yet.

TO THE POINT......

Now i have had an over heating problem with my dirty RB, here are a list of steps i have taken over the past 3 days to try and fix the problem

1 -> Flush current Radiator , Bleed, Refill, 2 -> Different radiator out of a cef (* running an RB20DE), Flush, Fill, Bleed3 -> Move electric fan from the outside (*as it was pushing air at the radiator, rather than pulling it through the radiator)4 -> Change the Thermostat, flush, refill, Bleed

Ok A little bit more about the problem that i am having...

The problem is only happening when given a bit of stick, I sit in traffic every day for up too 1 hour, and the temp stays at a good normal level doesnt rise or anything....

The second i take it out of the traffic and give it a bit of a go it starts to rise...

HELP ME :P

Sorry to make this my first post but im hopping someone can help!

[Carl H]

hrum, dodgy radiator cap perhaps?was there any rust in the coolant when you flushed it? when was the waterpump changed?

[DRFT10]

hrum, dodgy radiator cap perhaps?was there any rust in the coolant when you flushed it? when was the waterpump changed?

I have also changed the radiator cap to a brand new one.... at the same time as changing the thermostat

And there is no rust in the radiators, (*there was a little bit in the one out of the CEF when i first flushed it, but that was expected its now green as)

The water pump has been changed in the past 6 months, when the engine was dropped into the 180... so i dont think that could be the problem, But i think that is my next step...

What is the best way to test the waterpump?

[Cpt_Impossible]

Looks like we my have the same problem...

zerothread/223985

[rb20det_pwr]

I always thought that if the water pump is bad than it will be leaking from the small hole on the bottom side..

Im going to NZ next week!

[DRFT10]

Oh

I always thought that if the water pump is bad than it will be leaking from the small hole on the bottom side..

Im going to NZ next week!

Cool Where abouts are you from ? I currently am living in auckland.

Right time for an update.....

Last night, Yet another night spent at the Mechanics shop (*Poor guy has a wife and kids sitting at home waiting)

We ran a presure test... And what do you know... Who ever the d!ck was that helped me swap the Ceff radiator from my one, didnt tighten up the top radiator hose, and when a bit of pressure was applied it started to leak out!



So Fixed that (*with a simple little bit of elbow grease.)

Things running through my head was OMFG I MAY HAVE FIXED IT...

we ran another presure test, and the presure that it handled was great! it was way above the average!

So went of on my daily mission thinking we had resolved the issue,

DROVE INTO work this morning, 1hour in traffic, bumper to bumper.... was fine! BUT the second i started going at 50k's Bang the engine started to come off... this is really confusing me.....

i was taking it SOOO easy as well, Due to blowing off my intercooler piping, thanks to way too much boost last night and killing the pipe clamp

I think the only thing left is the water pump.... im going to prob give that ago tonight, and see if that fixes the problem.

Im at the end of everything i know... and everything But the water pump has been replaced... so i guess i will give you an update tomorrow morning

if this has fixed the problem! WISH ME LUCK!

[Eikon]

Do you have good strong heat in the car???

If your water pump is not leaking fluid.. then the only problem it could really have is the fins rusting away. Not likely if it's only 6 months old. The best way to tell is to see if your heat works well...

The heater core is a outlet path from the normal coolant tubes. If the water pump is working well.. there is enough pressure and flow through the tubes to get hot coolant into the heater core.. at which point the air passes through it and warms up and then goes into the cabin.

However if your water pump is not working well.. in other words.. no circulating the coolant properly... you will not be able to keep hot air from the heater... Make sense??

I highly doubt that it's your water pump given it's relatively new state.

Have you tried getting new temp sensors??? wonder if you have a faulty sensor? Maybe there is nothing wrong with it.. just reading funny?

[Cpt_Impossible]

That makes me think that mine isnt the pump either then. My RB20 blasts heat.

[Sil240]

Maybe the Water passages are blocked??Try blowing them out with a compressor.

[DRFT10]

The heater blasts extreamly hot air....

And the temp gauge seems to be working fine, cause when its hot.. everything is bubbling :P

Im going to try, take it up to another mate to have a look tonight,

Then Blast the snot out of the lines with a ummmmmmmhose and a air presure thingy..

and then well

change the waterpump and then...

GIVE UP:P and push the build of the RB30+25 to hurry up :P

[Cpt_Impossible]

Have you tried a leakdown or compression test?

[DRFT10]

Well iv done a presure test via the radiator. and that was sweet as!

[Sil240]

He ment Leakdown & compression test of the motor. Cylinder pressure.

Hey Does your radiator get hott??

[BoostFab]

i had the same issue on my motor. i did a test by driving without the thermostat in. it takes longer to warm up, but if the temperature stay normal after long runs, the issue is with the thermostat. make sure to use nissan thermostat, as the off brand one that was on my motor didn't have a small hole on the edge of the thermostat to help release air pockets in the cooling system. no matter long i bleed it still over heat. once i put in a nissan thermomostat and everything is fine.

if the engine still overheat, it may be the headgasket or the water pump.

[USMCgetsome]

my old fc rx7 used to do that. I'd be driving at normal speed with my stock clutch fan. Turn the boost up just a little(12psi) and wham it could't handle it. Changed water pump, radiator, pressure cap, thermostat. Nothing helped. So we ended up purging the block and found a whole lotta rust and small rust chunks coming out. Refilled, bled, drive fine on normal boost. Turned up the boost again and it was come up again. My old radiator had detoriated and caused blockage of the block water jackets.

lost that motor.

so got a new one and the radiator screwed me again. simple fix. new radiator but purged it by flipping it upside down and putting a water hose in it and flipping it over again and purging from the radiator cap. had small rust chunks fall out.

hope that helps a little.

[DRFT10]

[QUOTE=KUILLIN_DRIFTER]my old fc rx7 used to do that...........QUOTE]

Hey man, cheers for that!

NOW IT LOOKS LIKE I MAY HAVE FIXED THE PROBLEM!

Drove it up to see a friend at a Radiator specialist, Bang Problem solved!!(*hope)

It looks like the Cef radiator that i used was also buggerd!

I took the old radiator and the one out of the Cef in with me, He cracked them both open to show me what it would be like inside., and OMFG that was discusting!

Only about 3 of the tubes were flowing! and not even properly! basicly there was No water flow through the radiator! at all...

Cracked the other one and dam that was worse! chucked a hose in it to see how it flowed and there was basicly bugger all coming out it was shocking!

So in went a Nice big aftermarket one! (*we didnt think this through)

Check this out, and have a look at the amount of spare room i have to play with :P



But we managed to get it in there, Just....I drove it in this morning and it looks like the problem may have been fixed!!!

But i cant say for sure untill i get a chance to give it a bit of a go

GUYS JUST WANT TO SAY A BIG THANKS! to everyone that has helped me to try and fix this!i wouldnt know Bugger all of what you have told me

CHEERs

[Eikon]

Looks like you found the culprit.. makes good sense too..

at low speeds in traffic, there was just enough flow through the rad to cool it down,, but at higher speeds, it was just too plugged up to do any good.

Glad you got it worked out.

Stick around... You seem like a really cool guy, and it's always nice to have new members from places like NZ.

[DRFT10]

Looks like you found the culprit.. makes good sense too..

at low speeds in traffic, there was just enough flow through the rad to cool it down,, but at higher speeds, it was just too plugged up to do any good.

Glad you got it worked out.

Stick around... You seem like a really cool guy, and it's always nice to have new members from places like NZ.

Yeah man that was the problem! it sucks but im glad i fixed the problem!!

Im planning on sticking around, there seems to be alot of people that know alot of usefull infomation,

Some of the other sites are just

But yeah thanks again guys! I will keep you posted on everything that is going on with the car, and keep updating everything!

[Sil240]

Thats hott!!! (no pun intended)Welcome to NICO

[DRFT10]

Thats hott!!! (no pun intended)Welcome to NICO

ahahaha thanks man! Well its not so hot anymore!

But yet, im not 100% saying its fixed i just think this time there may be a fighting chance :P