RB20DET idle

[autoprime]

on the past few days,i've decided to clean up my aac valve and maf with a carb cleaner,because my engine was stallin at idle.after cleaning,the car ran fine and i've parked on the edge of a bridge.left it there for a half day.i was going home and when i cranked up the engine,i forgot that i've put it in fist gear.but no problem.maybe i was having almost an empty tank though

after 5 minutes of good idling,it started to idle at 3000rpm..so i was driving it with no foot on the gas pedal. i turned off the engine and turned the aac screw to lower the idle..after crank,its still idling like that.

when i pull the tps socket at idle,nothing happens..when i pull out the aac socket,it lowers the idle just a bit

i've checked all my vacuum hoses,i guess no leaks.i've tried to pull codes from the ecu(2 led type) i've got a 44 code which i think its fine,right?

now the car raises the idle at maybe 3000 on the first start

i was thinking of clogged injectors or filter,what do you think?im a noob and im learning here at nico,but i can't get out of this.

please help me out.i just have the car beside me now.im havin a terrible headache.

i have no mechanic here around who knows this engine well.

[autoprime]

i pulled out the maf and i got a rough idle,but still it was high..reconnected the maf and it revved much higher..

[autoprime]

check and rechecked.i've moved the tps but nothing newiac doesn't do anythingrechecked for loose or cracked hoses..nothingis this because i've put different gas last time?i usually use Shell and Petron 95 oct..maybe not..

help pls help

[autoprime]

if its a clogged fuel filter,is this the behavior of the engine?wild and steady idling?

[autoprime]

o c'mon guysi need some help

[crazyandevil05]

kinda out there, but check the throttle cable, see if poss that gettings stuck? i know once after i did the q45 throttle body swap mine would rev up higher at idle sometimes, and all it was was the throttle pulley (on the TB, that the cable connects to) was just pushing against the fuse box and therefore staying open a bit. as if i had the throttle open just a hair. and if poss, what AFR is it at? i know on the idlecontrol valves (the things attached to the intake manifold that control cold start idles and whatnot) there are some places you can mess with for the idling. i would say take everything back off that you did with the aac vavling, and re-do it. maybe a plug didnt get put back on, didnt get a good seal or something. since that and the maf were the last things you did, thats probably where the problem lies. i know in the r33 FSM theres a section on testing the AAC and MAF, everything. considering its 491 PDF pages, it covers everything you'd need. let me know if you dont have it, i cant remember if its here on nico or not, i can email it to you. good luck

[autoprime]

updates

this morning i bought a cheap 1$ plastic mitsubishi fuel filter,just a lil bit little than our stock ones

i've replaced my dirty one and after crank,the idle was still high..so i let it settle for a while,while adjusting the tb cable and it seems that the spring(the one on the tb)was kinda sticky on its way back,so i've pushed it down,and my idle did went down. but after a few moments,my engine started to shake,and i was hearing a knockin sound from the engine..i've adjusted the tps position,i don't know how but i moved it(i used luck) and after few seconds,it was fine..i don't know what my rpm is right now but its off better this way.

im planning of pullin out the TB and AAC,clean it with carb cleaner and gas,and seal it back with threebond,because i dont have enough money for new orig gaskets and i know,i have to travel 3-4 hours just to get parts for my car.

i hope this wont happen again..

pulled out codes again and 44 code again..no faulty engine i guess..minor tuning

i've warmed up the engine and put it in mode 1..i wasn't receiving any signal from the ecu..i think it was rich all the way,no blink of the green l.e.d..maybe my o2 is busted..i have a replacement here..but its toasted..used..i hope it will work..we might test it with a blowtorch..

crazyandevil05 - thanks a lot bro. God bless

[dtowngoalie]

Code 55 is all ok, not sure what 44 is...Also, test your o2 by spraying brake cleaner on a rag and put the o2 in that. Will make it read really rich.

[autoprime]

yeah,i've watched that on youtube..but i dont have a afr now..im running rich

ok,i've resolved the idle now..my problem is..you know a good tuned engine how its sounds..

mine now,its just like..blog blog blog..its not a pure fine..woooooohh..im sorry,im just tryin to explain myself..im driving it,but it wont boost like before..and after boostin,you'll hear like a bloblobloblog sound going down to idle..like a misfire or something..but i didn't touch any of the coilpack,i have new plugs..injectors?or the small fuel filter causing that?

i was really uncomfortable with it earlier..no boost cut..but the boost compared to the one i used to feel,its weak,its different..my ecu still pulling out 44..which is good as i read

is that connected with my TB?or AAC?or it could be a vacuum/air leak?

the behavior right now..one click,it starts..high good idle..but there's that blogblogblog..like i can feel that vibration..like a circulating thing in my engine..you know that a healthy engine you wont feel any vibration at all..mine right now,you can feel that at idle,on boost,on downshift or when you release the gas..cas position?do i have to change it?

the only mechanic here is me..no one could help me but you guys,here..its a DIY..and its a great great help..

thanks crazyandevil05 and dtowngoalie