RB20DET Consult Data & Problems

[Sil240]

I finally got a ECUtalk Consult cable and hooked it up.
But I forgot to log the information.
As soon as I can I will be logging the info to make sure everything is ok.

Could you guys post up your base or healthy info????


Ok now for the known problems:
IDLE: the AAC is screwed all the way in and my idle is at 1200 the lowest in closed loop.
Open loop its around 650-850 ish

EGT's: Rediculously high. After taking the car for a spin around the block. I'm reading about 900 deg F, but AFTER the turbo. (placed right behind the O2 sensor)

Boost: I've got a T3/To4E 60 Trim with a .82 A/r, I know its going to be laggy but it looks like I was geting 7 psi at like 5500 rpm. And I was ONLY getting 7 psi

Codes: I'm getting 3 codes:
21 - Ignition Signal - Could this be because of the LS2 coils??? And NO IGNITOR???
34 - Knock Sensor - Is my motor knocking or are the Knock Sensors bad or wiring bad?
54 - A/t Control - I guess I have an Automatic ECU. Should I set my timing to 20 deg?

Hypothesis:
EGT's are high due to stock injectors & Larger turbo.
Knock sensors may be sensing knock due to larger turbo
Idle: ??????? No idea
Boost: Maybe due to timing or fueling being off or simply wastegate actuator not properly adjusted??


P.S. - I have a Carl H tuned ecu and 640 injectors and a Z32 MAF that I'm holding off to install.
I wanted to get the car running right before I did. But maybe the big turbo already screwed that up?


ANY THOUGHTS OR SUGGESTIONS WOULD HELP!!!
CONSULT DATA WOULD BE GREAT!!!

NRRBA 4 LIFE!!!!

[SullivanRacing06]

900 deg f under normal conditions? or stomping on it?

[Sil240]

That's after taking 4 quick passes. And my EGT is AFTER he Turbo.

[RustspecS13]

Fix the knock sensor code, whether its the sensors them selves or the wiring. Because when they are bad the ecu will dump fuel and retard the ignition, and that can cause a laggy turbo and high egts.

~Alex

[Sil240]

Thanks Alex
I looked and my knock sensor harness was loose. It does not click into place.
So this weekend I'm going to search for a 89-90 Maxima or a 88-91 Z31 to scavenge the harness and maybe sensors.

But I'll probably buy new sensors anyway.

What Consult Software is everyone using???
Does it show Knock values/information?

I'm using ECUtalk version 1.3.4 and it does not.
There is a version 1.3.5 Beta but i'm not sure if it will work for the RB.
It keeps on mentioning Diesel engines.

I emailed Peter at ECUtalk so hopefully, he can help me out.
I was also having a problem with Windows 7 and the ECUtalk drivers.


Still looking for healthy RB20 log data....

[NewKleer]

latest v1.3.5 beta6 is out, you should get more switch sensors etc showing up with it. dont worry about mentioning of diesels, its just finally got support for diesel engines (hardly any consult software does, and those that do dont do it properly, so those with diesels have been left with almost nothing until now).

no software will show knock readings, they arent available via consult. just have to assume that if there is no error code, that its OK. or get a knock lite or similar.

[Sil240]

I finally got windows 7 to recognize the correct drivers for my consult cable.

So I pushed the knock sensors back in and I don't have anymore knock code. Which is a huge plus. !!

But my idle is still 1200 with the AAC screwed all the way in.
The consult is telling me also that the Aac is running at 80%

What does the air regulator do?? Is it supposed to have vacuum going to the AAC?

I also have a small miss, that I have to track down.

Question I have a auto Ecu, should I set my timing to 20 deg ?
its currently at 15 degrees.

[NewKleer]

when you say your idle is 1200 with AAC 80%, what temperature is the coolant when this is happening? given this is 'normal' behaviour while the car is say <50C, but if it was 85C then it would be abnormal.

if your idle is as low as it can go, your AAC (at warm idle) should be around <25. not 80. so maybe you screwed the idle screw all the way out?

[dfddfd2]

no software will show knock readings, they arent available via consult. just have to assume that if there is no error code, that its OK. or get a knock lite or similar.

With TunerCode firmware and TunerProRT, you can log knock count and the knock timing adjustment, and you can tune the parameters that control how much timing is pulled based on the knock count, and the maximum knock retard based on load and rpm.

Cheers,
Dave

[Carl H]

900f is NOT that hot.

[NewKleer]

With TunerCode firmware and TunerProRT, you can log knock count and the knock timing adjustment, and you can tune the parameters that control how much timing is pulled based on the knock count, and the maximum knock retard based on load and rpm.

yeah, sorry i meant to say without modifying the board/ROM there's no easy way to get a nice number like the powerfc has, which is what people are normally after when they ask the question.

standard code doesnt keep a count does it? i do remember on some boards, i think you could track down the ram address of a bit value telling you if knock maps are being used or not (dont remember if the count/value/criteria the ECU uses to determine when to switch to the maps was stored/accessible).

[dfddfd2]

You're right, it requires custom firmware to log the knock count, and there is a bit which means "knock active".

Cheers,
Dave

[Sil240]

NewKleer-
Not sure at what temp the engine is at when the AAC is at 80% and 1200 rpm.
But the car is up to temp and in Closed loop.

I screwed the AAC all the way IN, just to get to a 1200 rpm idle.....

I did notice that when I unplug the Air Regulator NOTHING happens. Vacuum is coming from the Air Regulator to the bottom part of the Tee going to the AAC.

As soon as I unplug the AAC, the car dies.
If I keep it up with the throttle, and plug the AAC back in I can immediately her a suction/leak or some kind of air flow.

Is this normal??

CARL-
900* F is AFTER the turbo, right behind the O2 sensor.
I have a stock style ebay manifold.

Also I found out that I do have a Automatic ECU. Should I set the base timing to 20*?

Can I use the Consult to determine the base timing? It does show the timing even Engine Off, Key On.

I'm holding off puttin in that ECU that you tuned for me, with the injectors and Z32 maf.
I don't want to add more variables.
But I have a feeling that one of the Stock Injectors are partially clogged.

I'm thinking about throwing all the new stuff in.


dfddfd2 -
How much is this Tunerport?
Does it work for RB's?
I don't see any listed.

I already have a Carl H tuned ecu.
Is this a board or a Consult program???
I suck with electronics, I don't know Firmware from Software.

[dfddfd2]

dfddfd2 -
How much is this Tunerport?
Does it work for RB's?
I don't see any listed.

TunerCode isn't currently available for the RB's.

Dave

[NewKleer]

NewKleer-
Not sure at what temp the engine is at when the AAC is at 80% and 1200 rpm.
But the car is up to temp and in Closed loop.

I screwed the AAC all the way IN, just to get to a 1200 rpm idle.....

I did notice that when I unplug the Air Regulator NOTHING happens. Vacuum is coming from the Air Regulator to the bottom part of the Tee going to the AAC.

well if the sensor is buggered or the ECU still thinks its cold, then it will open AAC to help idle higher. so would be worth confirming consult is reading like 80C+

not sure on the mechanical side of things

[Carl H]

check that the idle switch is engaged, if it is not then the car will not idle properly...most of the time high but sometimes they hunt for an idle pretty badly.
ideally the egt gauge needs to be on the exhaust manifold its self and since you're running a front facing plenum it should be on number 6's runner as that is the 'leanest' runner of the bunch.

you should shoot the crank pulley with a timing light as setting it with consult can be somewhat erronious depending on what software package you're running...datascan only provides the map timing values so the values do not change when you're setting the actual timing.

[Sil240]

Newkleer -
I can definetley tell you that the ecu is reading a good temp.
I put a new ECT in, and I was watching the temps and they were at proper Closed loop temps. This is all while having this problem.

I'm starting to think that the AAC is bad.
As soon as its plugged in, it Opens up fully it seems.

Before the car warms up, she hunts for idle but it is much lower.
Around 650 - 850
Then when she gets to temp you can hear her kick up the idle.

Carl -

Ok yeah I'll check that. Maybe thats the problem.
Throttle Switch and Idle Switch are the same thing right???
I know the TPS is set already, but never checked the Throttle Switch.

Yeah when I put my other Manifold in, I'm going to tap that 6th runner.
For now I didn't want to drill into that ebay crap. I was afraid of having leaks etc..

The idle is part of my Timing Problem.
I can't time the car due to the Idle not being steady and its also too High.
I set the CAS to the middle and ECUtalk says its at 16*.
When the car is idling @ 1200, timing is at like 30*.
Once I saw it go to I think 40* but not sure what rpm though.

Is that right or is there something seriously wrong?

Do you know of a way to set the timing properly at this crazy idle?
Also should I set it to 15* or 20*? (the car is manual, but ecu is Auto)

[Carl H]

i dont remember what ecu talk calls it but with the tps closed the idle/throttle switch should register on and when its cracked open it should go off almost instantly.
i have seen aac valves get dirty but never out right fail, the solenoids seem to be quite sturdy and even then if the solenoid dies off then one can be sourced rather easliy off of a twincam ka.
you wont beable to set your base timing until you get it to idle down, with the engine revving to 1200 you're in a completely different load point than what idle specifies, about three rpm load points higher than what it should be.
check the idle switch first and go from there...you may also have vaccum leaks.

[NewKleer]

could you grab the latest ecutalk beta (v1.3.5 beta6) and log everything (if thats too many sensors, leave out speed/distance/battery) from cold to when car is fully warmed up (10min or whatever it is), give it a could of revs at the end, and upload that somewhere?

[SIL-LINE]

That temp was after we drove her up and down the block. You pressed on her a bit .

Im almost done with the water line on mine so ill come by and compare maps .

[Sil240]

Yeah, but I did get some other log data after we were playing around with her.

I downloaded the new version of ECUtalk and tonight I'm going to log some data.
Steph was dragging me all over the place yesterday, so I couldn't get to it.

Fernando will be Dynoing his car next week, so if you wanna come through hit me up.

[Sil240]

Newkleer- YOU ARE THE MAN!!!!!

If anyone else has this problem, follow these steps:

OK, you definitely need that ECU talk to do this.
It makes it SOOOOOOOOO much easier.
You can use a multimeter and FSM if you would like.

Set the TPS to .44 volts Closed
it should hit about 4.0 Volts WOT
*** The FSM says .5v - 4.0v
At .5v the throttle switch is registering as open.

Then once you get that done, then make sure your Throttle Swtich is getting contact.
You'll have to check the FSM for this, I used the ECUtalk.
The 95-98 Maxima uses the same connector as the Stock RB20 TPS, if your using the Q45 one then you'll need an Older style connector.

But if you don't have the TPS set as I've said then your ecu will not recognize the Switch as closed.

Then once you've got the TPS and Throttle swtich setup now set the AAC.

You need to disconnect the AAC then turn the screw.
After you've reached 650 rpm at idle then plug it back in.

Next Timing

Unplug the TPS
Then Set the Timing .
15* @ 650 Manual
20* @ 650 Auto

Plug the TPS back in and rev it up and recheck.