rb20det comp results

[lexrob]

dry 1 dry 2 wet 11 115 120 1302 115 .... 1303 100 110 1354 110 ..... 1405 115 110 1306 130 135 145

cranked like 6 times.. using cheap gauge ): what you guys think rings gone ... 50-80k on it oil looks good no milky.. had 35amp charger goin??? dont know maybe gauge just reads low or its sh%%%t
Modified by lexrob at 12:03 AM 6/8/2009

[Carl H]

was the engine cold?was this done WOT?

[Largekid]

those don't look like anything i'd be crazy worried about. is this going to be a stockish motor? i think my motor only had 150-160ish, 130 isn't far off

[lexrob]

i let motor cool for hour after test driving and it was done at wot.. I plan on shooting for 250-290hp so im thinking rebuild is a must. I will have a leak down test done and go from there but i think a rebuild would be smart. He drove it for two years and said he never burnt oil or had a problem. No new timing belt ect. water pump so ..... Thanks for the input def. going to invest in a decent gauge anyone recomend brand.

[Carl H]

eh, a cooled motor is not the same as a hot motor.hot motor means everything has expanded like it should and will seal properly.a comp test should ALWAYS be performed right after shutdown (yes it is hot, and yes it sucks) and done WOT to ensure max air intake into the cylinders.Any decent gauge brand should work...most auto parts stores sell or rent one...the actron ones look nice but i've never used them before.if the engine doesnt eat oil and runs well then chances are its still ok, a rebuild isnt nessicary for the power you're seeking tho thats for sure.

[lexrob]

Well i now dont do comp. test right after shuting down. I had one from Oreily and the hose part like melted and it like ballooned. Maybe it wasnt a good enough one was like 30$.

Anyways im getting it reguardless next week I was always a diehard sr and was set on getting it but, found the rb localy read up and WOW they the stuff. Cheaper just as good hp outputs are basicly same for what you have to do and both have weaknesses that show themselves if not taken care of. And i did all that arguing with this rb guy lol....... now im going to him for advice. Wish me luck ill probly need the nico allot this month. I hate the interchange stuff to much searching and he say she say but thats the only thing i dont like about rb's comp to sr's(parts readily available EVERYWHERE!!)

[lexrob]

This is a little off topic but maybe i can actually keep a thread alive for more than 5 posts.

I'm totally lost on the rb20 Mounting situation.

The guy im getting it from has it sitting on hockey pucks lol... felt like great solid mounts and looked like a clean install. I just dont want to have to change mounts after shes in. Whats the best cheapest way i dont care how solid i'd weld it to the frame if it would work lol....

Also he is including tomei cams 8.5/9.5 lift sumthin like that i think theres only one kind 272 or sumthing...and aaaa(i think) sweltch 750cc injectors i want to say with reciep 400-500$$brand new in box .... any ideas how much i could get for them sorry im really a honda guy not quite a nissan guy yet

[Carl H]

anything over 9mm of lift in an rb20 will require clearancing of the head as well as solid lifters.never heard of the injector brand you're talking about.

[MATTs14]

Lol they are Deatschwerks 740's and i talked to the guy i got the cams from and they are tomei 256/256 with an 8.5 lift. BTW hockey pucks are the stuff lol

[lexrob]

Well i got some more numbers tonight. I did my stock KA with about 160k on it the exact same way i did the RB and it blew right around 180 dry across the board and 195 wet. All within 3 psi wet and dry. I waited a little over an hour gave it 7 cranks for each..... Which from what i read is like a PERFECT KA which ill be selling .

Rebuild required its toasted still want it just dont have a great machine shop around here

hes asking 2000 for everything full swap rad. fmic stock turbo 750's and cams ect. converted to the three coil waste fire and wired for a s14 what you guys think?
Modified by lexrob at 11:45 PM 6/7/2009

[RaceBredS14]

I think that looks like a good deal. Like others have already said, its not bad for a stock motor. The cams and injectors could generate enough money to pay for a rebuild, which i dont think is necessary, but could be somewhat of a plan B. If the motor seems strong and doesnt smoke or burn any oil then i think I would do it. I got my first Rb20 for ~1500 and the extras he is including are worth way more than 500 bucks. The radiator is about 100, the wasted spark is about 100, intercooler and piping is another 100 and the cams and injectors is worth an easy 700 together. If he is willing to include his mounting system ( i assume r32 crossmember) then you are nearly to 3 grand, yea I'd definitely do it. I dont really see any way you could lose on this deal but thats just my opinion

[lexrob]

Thanks for the feedback i take back my previous statement. I read a bunch of forums and guides and i guess its ok. It could have also been a little low because of other factors(carbon build up, overlap ect, bad connections at starter). I've been getting both sides rebuild or not and am still undecided but ill be joining the RB's soon.