Rb20det bouncing idle, idle= 1400 bounce up to 2000 maybe tps issue????

[RedsunzS13]

bounces wierd?

rb20det in my s14, drove it really hard and it started acting wierd?has no vacum leak, and hoping its a sensor issue

tps checked and im thinking that it could be the problem, the one thing that i wasnt sure about was if u test the tps's in those the same u do in say ka24de. where sitting resistance should be at 2 but mines and 0, and WOT is supposed to be 10 but mintes unreadable. is that a issue?

2nd, disconnect the tps and idle flys up and sits at 2300 rpms, so im guessing it could be this thats caushing my bouncy idle.

im just looking for someones second opinion thanks!! IAC
Modified by RedsunzS13 at 4:48 PM 8/29/2006

[gtrperformance]

Good luck with that. Mine does the same thing and EVERYONE I know around my way has the same problem. I thought I was miss-firing so I changed my plugs and it still did it. If you fix the problem remember to post it. Good luck homie.

[tecnic1]

Mine does it too.. additionally, it dies when decelerating, sorta like I was using a blow off valve.first and foremost, 1400 to 2000 is way too high for your idle. When I was first driving mine, it was idling that high, I had the idle air adjustment all the way rich, and it was still idleing that high.After a lot of trouble shooting, I found a grounded wire at my ecu. The plastic cover over the connecter had cut a wire and was grounding it to the ecu. Once I fixed that I was able to get my idle into a more reasonable range ( 500-1200).that's as far as I have gotten. I've tried hotter plugs, cleaning the maf sensor, checking the tps and checking timing(which is difficult because I have only a rough idea what RPM it is at, I'm using a "guesstimated" s14 tach), The only things left are the o2 sensor, which is going to require a lot of work because my o2 sensor bung is very poorly placed on my downpipe, finding a digital timing light and rechecking my timing with a more accurate rpm, and checking for boost leaks.

anyway, there are a few things for you to look at.

[armysweitzer]

safc and setting decel air should solve your problem, it did for me anyway.

[lucky7]

i had that problem in my talon. it was a bad mass air flow.

[Carl H]

the grey plug on the tps body is for idle and wot, wot is only uses on automatic cars for kickdown.check to see the if the idle switch is engaged, if its not it may not idle right.

[tecnic1]

the grey plug on the tps body is for idle and wot, wot is only uses on automatic cars for kickdown.check to see the if the idle switch is engaged, if its not it may not idle right.

How do you do that? Is there a check in the FSM?

[Carl H]

take a look at the plug, there will be 2 wires going out of it into the harness, unplug the plug and take a multimeter to the 2 corresponding prongs on the tps and check for continuity, you should have it with the throttle body closed.

[tecnic1]

take a look at the plug, there will be 2 wires going out of it into the harness, unplug the plug and take a multimeter to the 2 corresponding prongs on the tps and check for continuity, you should have it with the throttle body closed.

thanks.unfourtinately, that works good too.

[RedsunzS13]

ok, now my issue is not tps, its iacv. ok heres my situation...

rb20det

has a IACV looks similar to ka24de, but not 100%, i noticed there is a 2nd inline vacum style sensor which blocks off air from the iacv in the back, its kinda under the throttle body. anyway i pinch off the line to that one and it idles low, i dont have any idea what it is pn#22660 01U10 and i have no clue what it is? so right now, i have the lines that connect to that one pluged off and basically took it out of play, my idle now does not bounce, but it sits at one idle rpm, sits at 800, but it runs smelly **** rich. any ideas, ? i watch my boost gauge and regular vaum sits at -20 and boost use to be up to 13 but now its 11? wtf is this about.

help im stressing over this crap its pissing me the fawk off.

[vududoc]

Check MAF and ECT signal outputsyou are running rich and sounds like the iacv is compensating for something not right.

there isnt much else i can say w/o seeing the vehicle operating or more info.

Does it bogis it primarily cold condition or all the timeany boost or vac leaks?start with boost/vac leaks as simple as it may seem it can wreak havoc.