RB20DET AUTOMATIC SWAP INFO. NEED HELP!!!

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
gtrperformance
Posts: 235
Joined: Mon Oct 31, 2005 2:36 pm
Car: FULLY BUILT 1989 USDM KPS13 W/RB20DET

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Does anyone know what it would take to swap an automatic RB20DET into my automatic 1989 S13? I wanna keep my power steering and my A/C. I know this is NOT a common swap but I'm no wanna be drifter nor a wanna be Vin Deisel. I just want more power and I despise the KA and the SR when compared to the RB. I'm about to order my front clip but I need to know what else I need. My front clip comes with S13 LSD also and I'm paying $1300 shipped for it. Not a bad price. Any help on this matter would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Tony Touch


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Aznboi64
Posts: 122
Joined: Fri Nov 29, 2002 8:33 pm

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Ask frosted flakes he had an rb20det auto before then he swapped it to 5spd.

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nizmo zilvia
Posts: 751
Joined: Thu Jul 07, 2005 5:09 pm
Car: 95 240sx w/ S14 SR20 Blacktop

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1300 for front clip shipped? wow thats a killer price bro. I too am doing a manual > auto swap. Should be a fun project.

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blues14
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Joined: Tue Apr 19, 2005 2:16 pm
Car: 1995 Nissan 240SX GTS-t
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i hired a shop to install an auto rb20 into my auto s14........they could NOT get it right!! the car only had 2nd gear at first, they blamed it on a bad toruqe convert..... then they rewired it again using the power/ hold button and it worked better, but still sucked. good luck finding an auto transmission wiring harness diagram that you can read. so to make a long story short..go with a 5 -speed. you will also need to shorten your s13 driveshaft. Good luck.

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blues14
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oh yeah, forgot to mention, i lost my a/c and my cc, but i do have power steering. you should be able to keep a/c as long as your clip has a/c. but you may need some new lines fabbed up.

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Carl H
Posts: 5985
Joined: Mon Aug 04, 2003 4:09 am
Car: 1995 Nissan 240SX SE RB30DET

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you know im not sure why you guys are having so much trouble with the auto trans, the z32,r32 AND s13 all use the same trans control logic and practialy the same internals.you need to trace wires and hook up the kick down else its not going to work right at all.

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nizmo zilvia
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Car: 95 240sx w/ S14 SR20 Blacktop

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I dont think I said it how I wanted to say it. What I ment to say is that I have a auto 240sx which is getting a transplant of 5spd.

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blues14
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READ YOUR ORIGINAL POST!! is says you are looking to put an automatic rb20 into your auto s13.

gtrperformance
Posts: 235
Joined: Mon Oct 31, 2005 2:36 pm
Car: FULLY BUILT 1989 USDM KPS13 W/RB20DET

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That would be nice idiot but the reply before yours is not mine. I'm putting the auto RB into my auto S13. He just messed up on one ofhis replies. Anyone know how to wire up the R32 gauge cluster?

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vg33t
Posts: 80
Joined: Sat Oct 08, 2005 7:23 am
Car: s13 rb20

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I am also swaping a rb20/auto into my s13. You will have to shorten the driveshaft, there is no way around it or the motor will touch the radiator.The trany looks exactly the same other than the bell housing, even the wiring and plugs. I am going to make motor mount brackets. I was able to slide it back an inch but its still to close. I am waiting for the driveshaft now.

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Aznboi64
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Joined: Fri Nov 29, 2002 8:33 pm

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VG33t - keep us *mainly me* updated on how the auto rb20 performs. Any wiring issues? I thought that the rb20 drops right into the s13 auto. Doesn't the rb20 driveshaft fit?

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vg33t
Posts: 80
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Car: s13 rb20

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I dont know, if the rb20 auto driveshaft is shorter it might work. Mine was cut off.

gtrperformance
Posts: 235
Joined: Mon Oct 31, 2005 2:36 pm
Car: FULLY BUILT 1989 USDM KPS13 W/RB20DET

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There are no driveshaft issues. The RB20 drive shaft is fine. I'll keep everybody posted on what's going on with my car. I went to the junk yard today and took some leather seats out of a car and installed them in my S13. POWER AND HEATED!!!!!! Wiring is easy as hell anyway. Common sense ALWAYS applies to wiring anything. Knowing the basics doesn't hurt either. I also ordered a NISMO R32 gauge cluster that reads 260 kph. I'll use that on my RB20 swapped S13. Use McKinney motor mounts on your install. You get the clearance you'll need from the radiator. It gives you like an inch and a quarter more space. Thats enough space for flex-a-lite fans. I'll be using a 3" Koyo radiator made for the KA. The hoses line up the same.

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vg33t
Posts: 80
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Car: s13 rb20

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How long is the rb20 driveshaft? I just got mine back it needed to be shortend to 19.5 inches

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Vkoslak
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Car: 1992 240SX SE rb26dett, 2004 Subaru Forester
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Staying in 2nd is "limp" mode. I had a 300zx 2+2 auto that started doing that after I was abusing it one day. I had a blown fuse from an intermitant short. No mechanical problems what so ever. If its staying in 2nd, then its in limp mode.

gtrperformance
Posts: 235
Joined: Mon Oct 31, 2005 2:36 pm
Car: FULLY BUILT 1989 USDM KPS13 W/RB20DET

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You didn't get a R32 RB20 drive shaft then. I'll measure the drive shaft so I can be exact. The S13 and R32 drive shafts are the same length. I'll keep you posted.

gtrperformance
Posts: 235
Joined: Mon Oct 31, 2005 2:36 pm
Car: FULLY BUILT 1989 USDM KPS13 W/RB20DET

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I just realized why you might have had to shorten your RB drive shaft. Did you have ABS in your S13? The diff is longer in S13's with ABS. How's your swap coming along? EASY? Who did your wiring?

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vg33t
Posts: 80
Joined: Sat Oct 08, 2005 7:23 am
Car: s13 rb20

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I do not have abs. I dont have the rb20 driveshaft either, I am using the stock s13 auto driveshaft. The swap is going good, I finished the motor mounts and the trany mounts. The motor is now sitting in place. now all there is left is wiring and hoses. I am doing every thing myself. Here are some pics.

iroc07
Posts: 76
Joined: Thu Aug 12, 2004 10:10 am
Car: being a badass

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those are interesting looking mounts. I have seen a couple different things like that before. And I cant believe people still buy McKinney stuff. I sell a better mount, and I charge hundreds less, and the same for the drivshafts. I guess some people just like to spend money.

gtrperformance
Posts: 235
Joined: Mon Oct 31, 2005 2:36 pm
Car: FULLY BUILT 1989 USDM KPS13 W/RB20DET

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And how much are your mounts? Top Hat Performance makes better mounts than McKinney anyway. You saying that yours are better than Top Hat's? I have the RB driveshaft so I didn't need any modifications to the driveshaft. I sent my wiring to Top Hat. I'll be using the R32 gauge cluster too. I bought a NISMO 280kph cluster.

gtrperformance
Posts: 235
Joined: Mon Oct 31, 2005 2:36 pm
Car: FULLY BUILT 1989 USDM KPS13 W/RB20DET

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vg33t wrote:I do not have abs. I dont have the rb20 driveshaft either, I am using the stock s13 auto driveshaft. The swap is going good, I finished the motor mounts and the trany mounts. The motor is now sitting in place. now all there is left is wiring and hoses. I am doing every thing myself. Here are some pics.
Looks like it's coming along nicely. You got a coupe or a hatchback? Are you trying to keep your ac and power steering? I'll be using the Greddy intake manifold to free up all the cluttering on that side of the engine. Also, a front mount intercooler will be used. I'm about to go to basic training so I won't be able to finish it any time soon. I'll be done with basic and AIT by August. I'll post completed pic's then. Working in cold weather sucks doesn't it?

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vg33t
Posts: 80
Joined: Sat Oct 08, 2005 7:23 am
Car: s13 rb20

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I have a hatchback. I will be keeping the power steering and attempting to keep the ac. I will be useing the stock intake and side mount for now. I hate working in cold weather, I dont have a garage to work in, just the outdoors lol

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Carl H
Posts: 5985
Joined: Mon Aug 04, 2003 4:09 am
Car: 1995 Nissan 240SX SE RB30DET

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iroc07 wrote:those are interesting looking mounts. I have seen a couple different things like that before. And I cant believe people still buy McKinney stuff. I sell a better mount, and I charge hundreds less, and the same for the drivshafts. I guess some people just like to spend money.
those are some strong words there.you have proof to back that up?you are starting to sound alot like cameron.......

Valley
Posts: 289
Joined: Sat Apr 02, 2005 5:37 pm
Car: 00 celica gt-s 89 240sx hatch

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ever think about a piece to box your mounts with? even some flat steel before the nut would be better than having a few inches just hanging with the stress of a motor on it.

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Aznboi64
Posts: 122
Joined: Fri Nov 29, 2002 8:33 pm

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Who makes replacement rubber isolators?

s14 2510's
Posts: 605
Joined: Tue Mar 15, 2005 9:01 am
Car: 96 s14 rb26 2510's fully built, 91 s13 sil truck rb20 in works

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I dont know If I would trust them with my 26 sitting on them. But Im looking for 700 at the crank so the stronger the better. I like the way my mckinney mounts are designed better. They are more of a solid mount. I dont have to worry about them junk stock mounts breaking. In my mind you should have put a reinforcement on the one mount in the top pic with the piece welded on it. I could see that flexing and the weld breaking over time. Nice work on doing stuff on your own though. Saving $. Not trying to bash I would just hate to see that break while doing pulls on the road. I dont know what the design of the mounts for the 25/20 look like from mckinney. so I cant say whos is better. Frankly I dont realy care but I just would hate to see you mount brake and engine fall on one side.

gtrperformance
Posts: 235
Joined: Mon Oct 31, 2005 2:36 pm
Car: FULLY BUILT 1989 USDM KPS13 W/RB20DET

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I'm done with Basic and AIT now I can start my swap. I have Top Hat mounts, front mount intercooler, Koyo radiator, Flex-a-lite fans, T3/T4 turbo, turbo manifold, Blitz blow off valve, R32 LSD, R32 drive shaft and a bunch of electronics for her. I'll post PIC's soon. Is your swap finished? What problems did you encounter when retaining your auto transmission? Any help would be appreciated.

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annie4rb20
Posts: 32
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Car: RB Powered S13
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I just got done switching my AUTO RB20 into a 5-speed... Having it an automatic was a big pain in the butt. I didn't know if it was because my fans weren't too awesome or what, but I had really bad overheating issues. I think now though it was because I was running two huge transmission coolers (for RVs) mounted in between my FMIC and radiator (KOYO). I constantly had to check the transmission fluid, which kept getting burned and making the slipping issue (bad torque converter maybe?) so much worse. I would say save yourself some trouble and just get a 5-speed...

I posted a day-by-day about the swap on a blog in my myspace (myspace.com/annie4mt). If you want to see what you may later be getting yourself into. Switching it to a manual, I paid maybe a total of $1200 on everything (includes buying new, McKinney mounts). On a side-note, I still have my custom mounts if you want them. $50 bucks.

nukeone
Posts: 95
Joined: Thu Aug 25, 2005 9:01 am

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I have an RB in a '92 vert with both A/C and power steering. No problems with auto transmission using stock KA auto ECU; just don't have the power and hold modes. Like someone said above, just trace the wiring for the auto between the two engines... not a big deal. I have a small transmission cooler and run Amsoil racing fluid in the transmission. Have not had any overheating issues yet. I am using one puller fan on the engine side in front of the a/c compressor area and one pusher fan between my front mount and radiator, that is directly in front of the transmission cooler, so maybe that helps.

nukeone
Posts: 95
Joined: Thu Aug 25, 2005 9:01 am

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By the way, I am using Top Hat mounts... it was a very tight fit with the auto but worked way better than using the RB crossmember that I have used previously. It was a great feeling to put the hood back on without having to notch any of the hood bracing! Also, I used the stock KA driveshaft but had to have it shortened a couple of inches.. only cost $75 for shortening and re-balancing!


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