Post by
Gabes13 »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/gabes13-u92491.html
Mon Sep 12, 2011 6:04 pm
Hay man, make sure you trouble shoot some other basic things before you jump to replacing some other pricey parts. Here's a checklist I come up with when trouble shoot rough idles:
Make sure you have absolutely no air leaks (by the aac unit, air regulator hose, and j-pipe connector, all blow by hoses are snug, all intercooler couplers are tight, and all intake pipe clamps are tight), your vacuum should be steady between 17-22 in/hg, make sure you're not throwing any codes, if so, take care of them (obviously), make sure your battery is charged and charging while on, all powered accessories are off, then, with a multimeter:
-Make sure the idle contact is engaged on the throttle switch when the throttle is closed; ~8-10v closed and 0v opened.
-Make sure your tps is within voltage range; ~0.50v +/- 0.05v closed and ~4.0v wide opened
-Make sure your AAC is working properly; terminal 1 should have battery voltage when "on", and ~6-7v idling cold, and ~8-10v idling warm.
-Make sure the Air Regulator is not staying open; It should be open/half open at at ~20* C and fully closed at ~60* C. You can check by taking the air regulator off the car and applying battery voltage to the regulator and visually seeing the shutter close. It should close within 7 minutes.
Give that a shot first.
Hope that helps.