RB20 won't rev..stumped

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
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s14Geoff
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Hey guys back again.. ha
So i've replaced the MAF with a j60, replaced all spark plugs, replaced a coil pack that was bad
and it still is acting like the MAF is bad (or what i understand it acts like when a MAF is bad)
i didnt rewire the MAF just cut the loom back so i think the wiring for it should be good
ecu sends code 55 with the old MAF but sends code 12 with the j60 (i thought the j60 MAF works with RB20?)
I'm stumped... could vacuum leaks cause this? im getting -15 at idle which i know should be higher but i would think it would still rev... but then again i know very little
any help is MUCH appreciated


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s14Geoff
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video so you can see whats going on
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6QZsVllUtzQ

I've also got a fuel pressure sensor inline after the fuel filter
its reading 60 psi
is this normal?? ive heard it should be around 40 but that was a rail reading idk if they are any different..
also i looked at a ecu pinout and it says #26 should be MAF ground but theres no wire going to pin 26
is this normal also??
sorry for stupid questions im learning


and also i didnt buy a j60 i got the stock one part number 22680-02U00
im just confused as to why the brand new one shows code 12 and the old one shows no codes
but both cause it to run the same way

Yellow4g63
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Sounds like a vacuum leak, if you unplug the maf it should still do the same thing. Build a leak tester your idle sounds way too high (google it so many different ways to build one).

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s14Geoff
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Ok thanks for the help man
Ill try it out

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s14Geoff
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Would a boost leak cause it to cut out like it does?

Yellow4g63
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yes, unmetered air getting into the motor that the maf did not calculate will make do that.

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s14Geoff
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Nice thanks a lot man!

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s14Geoff
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Didnt want to make a new thread but...
did the cigar vacuum leak test and found a few and fixed them
my boost gauge is reading -15 at idle which ive read online is normal right?
i did notice something new today
theres some white smoke coming out of the exhaust after i turn the car off and liquid droplets (just a downpipe on there for now)
couldn't tell what the liquid was..
could this have something to do with it?? read online white smoke could lead bad head gasket.... hope its not that..
don't have any coolant in the car right now didnt want to until running good but i only have the engine running for like a minute max before i shut it off
could that be why its smoking?
sorry for the huge paragraph... thanks guys

Yellow4g63
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could be oil from the turbo or unburnt fuel. what did it smell like?

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s14Geoff
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My dad was over and said it smelled like it was running rich. But the liquid doesn't smell like gas it almost seems like water/antifreeze.there was a little puddle on the ground that tasted kind of bitter. Everywhere I'm reading the symptoms im getting say bad MAF other than the smoke so maybe the wiring is messed up?
And the liquid.. Could that be the leftover coolant in the engine? Would that indicate something is wrong with the turbo?

Yellow4g63
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could just be condensation unless there is a huge puddle forming from the down pipe. I'm not sure what it could be, it's just the stock turbo anyway those things are garbage so don't worry too much about it.

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s14Geoff
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yeah it wasnt huge haha sounds like what you say condensation
before with my new MAF i was getting code 12 but now that i fixed those vacuum leaks i guess im getting code 55
its still running the same though.. do you know what else could cause this?
would cleaning the AAC or IACV help? those have popped up in a few threads

Yellow4g63
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what state are you in? maybe someone close by could help you trouble shoot

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s14Geoff
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I live in Idaho haha
I bought this swap from a shop who are pretty familiar with 240s i could give them a call and see if he can't help me track down the problem I dunno if anyone on this forum lives here haha :gotme

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s14Geoff
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so something new happened again today
figured id try and fill up the cooling system since people say the Engine Coolant Sensor can cause some wierd stuff
I started the car to warm it up to bleed the system and at first it ran the same, then it started fluctuating at idle and the code 12 came back...
and it now always does that, runs with a high idle then eventually breaks into a fluctuating idle (mayde when the thermostat opens? the first time some steam came out)
at this point im just confused haha I'm gonna give the guy a call but i figured i'd ask and see if someone has had similar problems?

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s14Geoff
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I have found my problem!!!

Image


the wiring got cut somehow.. haha so hopefully once i get it rewired my problems go away

might be a stupid question but is it possible to solder two shielded wires together? or do i need to run a new one aaallll the way back?
Image

Yellow4g63
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just run solder the broke wires in the shield and shrink wrap it. and prob tape it up too. should be the same wires at the plug or just run new wires from the broken part to the maf if you want too.

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s14Geoff
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Sweet thanks for all your help man!

Yellow4g63
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Just remember to peel back the shielded cable and solder the wires without the shield on them and shrink it and tape it back up and call it a day.


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