rb20 stalling

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
Rb20 problems
Posts: 6
Joined: Tue Mar 18, 2014 8:09 pm

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ok so ill be driving for like 10 min it will be fine and the after that ill push the clutch in and it almost dies ,it will rev twice then come back to normal idle . anybody know whats goin on :gotme


Yellow4g63
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Joined: Mon Jan 20, 2003 6:07 pm
Car: 95 Nissan RB20 240SX RB20
91 Nissan NX2000 VE power
95 Nissan 240SX Stock
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is the bov been vented back into the intake tube or vented to atmosphere?

Rb20 problems
Posts: 6
Joined: Tue Mar 18, 2014 8:09 pm

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im pretty sure it wasn't ,its got a hks ssqv3 its just hooked up like normal and even if it was I wouldn't kno how to tell if it was. btw thanks yellow4g63 for all your help :bowrofl: , I haven't got to the cold start thing yet because of work but ill start soon

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USMCgetsome
Posts: 2030
Joined: Wed Apr 14, 2004 7:38 pm
Car: OWN S13.5 RB25DET/2003 G35
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check for vacuum leaks(intercooler piping and couplers and old hoses) Check maf voltage and fuel pressure

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USMCgetsome
Posts: 2030
Joined: Wed Apr 14, 2004 7:38 pm
Car: OWN S13.5 RB25DET/2003 G35
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also google hks bov recir adapter or routing to get that answer.

Rb20 problems
Posts: 6
Joined: Tue Mar 18, 2014 8:09 pm

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ok so I tightened all tubes and pipes ,maf is putting out fine and its still doing it. what els could it be, temp sensor gone bad?

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USMCgetsome
Posts: 2030
Joined: Wed Apr 14, 2004 7:38 pm
Car: OWN S13.5 RB25DET/2003 G35
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3 main things I know of kill the engine like that

slowly dying fuel pump
coolant temp sensor bad for cold starts
slowy dying MAF

and of course terrible vacuum leaks and blown piston rings

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lexcrob
Posts: 527
Joined: Mon Sep 22, 2008 7:38 pm
Car: I get a different ride faster than I could update this.
Location: Clarksville, TN

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You have to recirc your bov unless you go to a map based system like aem standalone. Only other option is to go to a blow through maf where you just mount maf in the intercooler piping post turbo.

Id recommend just getting ahold of a dsm "bypass valve" cheap and same part that comes stock.


After that is resolved its kind of a process to get it to run perfect.

Assuming you have no vacuum or boost leaks you would bring engine to temp. Turn off vehicle. Disconnect the idle air sensor on rear of engine. Disconnect the tps connector. There is two connectors for tps"" one for off idle switch and one for tps. Next you will get a multimeter and verify your idle switch is adjusted properly. Its just a open close sensor not a potentiometer like the tps. After that is set you start engine. Then adjust your idle speed set screw on the back of the engine. After you get it close to 800rpm you set timing with a timing light to base timing. If you notice engine speed changes with base timing. Its a bit of a back and forth mix. *** Normally the idle set screw will end up 2 flats back from clockwise stop. (turn it all the way in back out 360 degrees or one full turn)

Then turn of engine reconnect sensors disconnect battery and arch terminals together for 10 seconds disconnected. Reconnect and go for a drive. Should run like a champ. If problems are still not resolved then you back to check engine codes/vacuum leak/boost leak/fuel pressure/bad coil or multiple/malfunctioning sensor...



Good Luck!


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