rb20 so close I can taste it!

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
mikalkouki
Posts: 158
Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2006 11:10 am

Post

alright... got the timing set to 20*BTDC using the loop from the ignitor pack and adjusted the aac down to 650-700 with the brown wire unplugged, then cleared the ecu and took it for a hearty drive and the car still is very hesitant at low rpms under load. Shifting from 1st to 2nd and from 2nd to 3rd, it will bark the tires. But even if you dump the clutch from stand still it doesn't wanna go hardly at all. Also, since I have adjusted the idle, it fluctuates ALOT. Was I supposed to leave the brown plug off even after I adjusted it? Everything on the car is stock except for the z32 maf w/ safc set 2in4out and no afl adjustments made, plugs are ngk irid. @ .8mm. And I know this is another topic, but during Idle I sometimes get 16 afr's, and while driving it's all over the place anywhere from 10-15 (ngk afx wideband).



mikalkouki
Posts: 158
Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2006 11:10 am

Post

left something out!! I'm running 10psi on the stock turbo and have a universal inline fpr, but havn't been able to get my nismo adapter in yet, guess im gonna hafta pull the fuel rail to get the screws out. Also my fpr gauge reads 35psi with and without the vac. line attatched! Whats with that? Shouldn't it be like 35/44?

mikalkouki
Posts: 158
Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2006 11:10 am

Post

bump

anybody got any input?

Yellow4g63
Posts: 3718
Joined: Mon Jan 20, 2003 6:07 pm
Car: 95 Nissan RB20 240SX RB20
91 Nissan NX2000 VE power
95 Nissan 240SX Stock
Contact:

Post

mikalkouki wrote:alright... got the timing set to 20*BTDC using the loop from the ignitor pack and adjusted the aac down to 650-700 with the brown wire unplugged, then cleared the ecu and took it for a hearty drive and the car still is very hesitant at low rpms under load. Shifting from 1st to 2nd and from 2nd to 3rd, it will bark the tires. But even if you dump the clutch from stand still it doesn't wanna go hardly at all. Also, since I have adjusted the idle, it fluctuates ALOT. Was I supposed to leave the brown plug off even after I adjusted it? Everything on the car is stock except for the z32 maf w/ safc set 2in4out and no afl adjustments made, plugs are ngk irid. @ .8mm. And I know this is another topic, but during Idle I sometimes get 16 afr's, and while driving it's all over the place anywhere from 10-15 (ngk afx wideband).
Why don't you take off that AFC or bypass it so the car runs like stock 1st. Get a fuel pump in there and a FPR. Check the ecu for any codes, might be a bad CAS, Knock sensor or a TPS or coolant temp sensor? Do you have a laptop? did you wire in a Consult port when you did the swap?

mikalkouki
Posts: 158
Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2006 11:10 am

Post

Yellow4g63 wrote:Why don't you take off that AFC or bypass it so the car runs like stock 1st. Get a fuel pump in there and a FPR. Check the ecu for any codes, might be a bad CAS, Knock sensor or a TPS or coolant temp sensor? Do you have a laptop? did you wire in a Consult port when you did the swap?
I would love to bypass the afc and get it to run like stock, but the only maf i have is a z32. I didn't even think about the fuel pump! Will the stock s14 fuel pump even come close to suffice the rb20?? I have a universal in line fpr w/gauge and a nismo adapter, but when I adjust the fpr with the allen screw it doesn't change, 35psi with and w/o vac.??? I have a spare cas and that didn't change anything. Tested the TPS and everything checks out ok. Coolant temp sensor is the 2 wire sensor correct? Is that interchangeable w/ the ka? Also is the knock sensor ka swappable?


Return to “RB20DET / RB25DET / RB26DETT Forum”