Why don't you take off that AFC or bypass it so the car runs like stock 1st. Get a fuel pump in there and a FPR. Check the ecu for any codes, might be a bad CAS, Knock sensor or a TPS or coolant temp sensor? Do you have a laptop? did you wire in a Consult port when you did the swap?mikalkouki wrote:alright... got the timing set to 20*BTDC using the loop from the ignitor pack and adjusted the aac down to 650-700 with the brown wire unplugged, then cleared the ecu and took it for a hearty drive and the car still is very hesitant at low rpms under load. Shifting from 1st to 2nd and from 2nd to 3rd, it will bark the tires. But even if you dump the clutch from stand still it doesn't wanna go hardly at all. Also, since I have adjusted the idle, it fluctuates ALOT. Was I supposed to leave the brown plug off even after I adjusted it? Everything on the car is stock except for the z32 maf w/ safc set 2in4out and no afl adjustments made, plugs are ngk irid. @ .8mm. And I know this is another topic, but during Idle I sometimes get 16 afr's, and while driving it's all over the place anywhere from 10-15 (ngk afx wideband).
I would love to bypass the afc and get it to run like stock, but the only maf i have is a z32. I didn't even think about the fuel pump! Will the stock s14 fuel pump even come close to suffice the rb20?? I have a universal in line fpr w/gauge and a nismo adapter, but when I adjust the fpr with the allen screw it doesn't change, 35psi with and w/o vac.??? I have a spare cas and that didn't change anything. Tested the TPS and everything checks out ok. Coolant temp sensor is the 2 wire sensor correct? Is that interchangeable w/ the ka? Also is the knock sensor ka swappable?Yellow4g63 wrote:Why don't you take off that AFC or bypass it so the car runs like stock 1st. Get a fuel pump in there and a FPR. Check the ecu for any codes, might be a bad CAS, Knock sensor or a TPS or coolant temp sensor? Do you have a laptop? did you wire in a Consult port when you did the swap?