RB20 prep

[lexrob]

Im going to try and keep tabs for you guys on my RB prep to get some input. Picked it up local form guy that had it in an s14 so makes it a little easier(i got to help pull it and got just about everything needed) He even let me do a comp test which came back with curious results.

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Now im trying to do it right the first time.... here is where im at

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Modified by lexrob at 12:14 AM 6/21/2009

[lexrob]

As soon as i got it on the stand i preformed a leak down test just to put my mind to rest.... 10-14% in all cyl..

Anyways I think I've found the problem. I saw radiator residue around all the cyl. that tested low so i guess headgasket was the only problem. Tonight i pulled off the head and to my suprise gunked up coolant passages. Stop-leak anyone? well I think that is what it is from. Now im a little hesitant to just throw a new headgasket on arp studs and GO! Also just to add to the slight set backs there are two ex. manifold studs snaped off in the head.

On the bright side cyl. looks great crosshatch and all. Also I think it has the stock clutch and it looks GOOD lol... low milage. The timing belt i think is stock Gates??? huh... He said he drove it occasionally for two years came with 45-65k im guessin not even 70k on it.

Any input appriciated thanks.

[MATTs14]

I told you that damn clutch was good!! lol and i never put any stop leak but thats not to say it didnt come like that or the previous radiator that came with my car wasnt full with it. At any rate good luck with the build.

As for the manifold studs, get some Seafoam Deep Creep from the parts house and soak them with it, let it sit for 5 or 10 minutes, and repeat. Get a good extractor with a properly sized drill bit and they will come right out. Deep Creep is amazing. Good luck!!
Modified by MATTs14 at 6:36 PM 6/21/2009

[lexrob]

Yea man your were right about the clutch. I pulled off the gasket and I guess it was just kind of sandwhiched so it looked bad. Its all good im bringing the head to a machine shop to have them take them out i dont want to fuss with it. Man its such a relief I got it from you and you were straight up about it.

Im a little undecided on a few parts

clutch - ACT or SPEC im really wanting a really aggresive one but i've heard bad things about puck ones.......

BOV - greddy hks or try to source a stock recirc. for now?

Oil pump/pickup - not shur it I should replace/upgrade or not while I got pan off

Of course from what ive read oem is the way to go on timing components. Is there anything else as far as bottom end arp main/rod bolts.. high flow oil pump that would be a good idea. Again im going for around 300hp just need some help from the rb gods!

[Sil240]

If the oil pump hasn't been changed, I would change it. Scrape some cash together and do it.The pickup, if its not bent, smushed or broken screen, just change the gasket.

The bottom end, if you got the cash change the ARP rod bolts, mains and bearings.

You've got it apart, why not...Give you a little peice of mind.

[Carl H]

prime time to collar the crank too!

[lexrob]

Ive got about another 2500 to spend. I dont think i really have enough to put in forged pistons and really get into it. I also don't have a good enough machine shop close. Again im shooting for 300 reliably so if you guys thing bearings/bolts would be wise i guess ill do it. Im still completely confused on the crank collar thing (has to be pressed in not any place can do it right). If its easy to get it done and would help that much i guess ill look into it more.

Anyone know what raw broke's back order wait is like...... Id like to get everything like clutch, gasket kit, water/oil pump, timing components from one place.

Also the N1 water pump and like the greddy oil pump worth it.... I know there is something with the crank collar short long sumthin like that maybe someone can completely clarify its kind of scattered info. Man rb information is so sketchy its like s15 conversion and sr20 black/red/notch/cooling fins lol..... i miss HONDAS 240s like a love hate kind of thing with %%#$^ friken wiring and engine diagnostics CONSULT much?

[RustspecS13]

Is this more of a street engine or track or a mix of both? I daily my RB20 and now that its running good (crosses fingers ) I'm going to drift and autox it.

I run the OEM water and oil pumps. The difference between the N1 versions and the regular ones is the N1 pumps actually flow a little less, and the water pump is suppose to cavitate less at high rpm. Since track engines run higher rpms thats fine. But daily driving in traffic and around town its better to have the stock pump to cool better.

And with upgraded oil pumps you really should run restrictors to prevent trapping all your oil in the head.

~Alex

[Carl H]

again collar the crank if you have it torn down and plan on installing a new oil pump.

[lexrob]

Well its not necessairily going to be a track car, but i just want it to preform well. Ok so oem on both can you further explain on the restrictors. Im aware of the problem just not sur how to properly fix it. I think that goes hand in hand with the crank collar thing.

Phase two has almost eveything I need and by their page says 3-5 bussiness days on everything..?? hmm everywhere else just about is backorder what you guys think...I really want to get it all from one place.