rb20 exhaust manifold

[justin s]

im putting mine together and on the manifold they 3rd port dont line up with the studds... its warped a little.. and when i removed it to intall the studds the bolt broke off in the head so i had exstract it... i was thinking of drilling out the holes a little but i dont wanna do anything ghetto and i dont really trust it...

any suggestions... or does anyone still have there stock manifold or a better one for sale?

[v kush]

is the one you were trying to mount stock??
and ill check and see if i have one laying around

[l0nestar]

As far as the bolt extrication is concerned, there are a few ways that you can go about this.

Is it recessed (snapped off) inside the head, or is there any material sticking out of the bore?

The first step is to LIBERALLY apply a liquid penetrant. I prefer Kroil. An easier to find solution is either PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench Penetrating Spray. Spray, let it sit and 'work' for a period of time. (I have let parts soak for over a day, just re-applying spray every hour or so) Kroil won't be found at normal hardware stores, not even NAPA. I go to a mechanical / hydraulic specialty shop for mine. They are the only ones who carry it in my town.

Is there a NAPA / Sears / hardware store near by?
A lot of people use a tool called an Easy-Out (properly called a Screw Extractor).
The problem is that they use strong, but brittle steel which can shear and leave you in an even bigger mess than you started with.

When I received my half-cut many moons ago, the 'upper' stud in the #6 exhaust runner was recessed.
I picked up a nice Screw Extractor set from Fastenal (It was Labeled Irwin but was produced by Hansen). The key to the set was the Left Handed drill bits. If you use traditional Right-Handed bits, when drilling it, it will naturally force the stud further in, or torque it more. The bit you want to select should be close, but definitely smaller than the stud you are trying to extricate (remove) - the kit should have a reference.

The third step is the actual removal tool. My tool looks somewhat like a snubbed cone, but with ribs or flutes going back. (for 'bite') It should not 'slip' when turning. If it does, you need to reset it into the hole in the stud you drilled. You drive this in _CAREFULLY_ with a medium sized martiel... er hammer. Again _CAREFULLY_ attempt to turn (Reverse / CCW) If you have a tap-wrench us this to evenly distribute torque to remove it, if not, I have used a 300mm adjustable spanner (Crescent wrench) in a pinch. (remember basic leverage - longer handle, greater torque applied) and it should come out.

Another overly-complicated and detailed response.
A word of advice - don't skimp on the extrication tool. This is not something that I would pick up from HF.

Or take it to a machine shop and have them pull it. It may be cheaper in the long run - who knows.

[Genpac]

I had 3 broken in the Cyl head, below the surface. It was the front stud on Cyl #1 and both studs on Cyl #6.

I was planning on replacing the HG eventually... so the broken studs expedited that. Took off the Cyl head and ran it to a machine shop. They extracted the broken studs and I had them mill the head to ensure it was straight as well.

[TheRBguy]

I had 2 broken studs on my Rb25 and i just drilled them and put a screw extractor in them and they turned right out, my manifold was warped bad, i just bought an Ebay one. I couldnt find a stock one.

[justin s]

yeah i did the same thing.. i took it to a machine shop and got the head checked and made sure it wasent warped and they took the studds out..but i still have a warped manifold.... anyone got a stock one or know where i can get another one??? cant really afford rips or one from raw brokeage right now.... moneys tight around the holidays..

[v kush]

what kind is the one that is warped?? got any pics i got a stock one

[Emperor87]

idk what your setup is but if you plan on upgrading your turbo just buy an aftermarket manifold. This it the one I just ordered my motor had broken and stripped studs. I just got a set of arp studs that fit and used a set of snap-on left hand drill bits to take the old studs out.

[Yellow4g63]

I used SR20 studs on mine because of the custom exhaust manifold I have.

[justin s]

what kind is the one that is warped?? got any pics i got a stock one

yeah its the stock one.. no pics.. i sent it off to the machine shop to get the holes moved over a 1/4 an inch..
buuuut if its not perfect i dont like it,. i still need to get another one.. im gonna roll with what i got for now

[justin s]

idk what your setup is but if you plan on upgrading your turbo just buy an aftermarket manifold. This it the one I just ordered my motor had broken and stripped studs. I just got a set of arp studs that fit and used a set of snap-on left hand drill bits to take the old studs out.

whos that one from?? how much??? n yeah i switched the exhaust manifold studs to apr 2