Rb20 bottom end problems

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
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RustspecS13
Posts: 928
Joined: Sat Sep 08, 2007 5:30 pm
Car: '74 260z and '88 300zx turbo

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So some of you may have been following my rb a little, not that I have an official build thread.

Any way last spring I blew the head gasket at the first drift practice, after 2400miles of daily driving and not going easy on it.

I put a HG on it after looking for one for about 2 months. Then 700 miles later the timing belt tensioner fell off on the highway and bent all my valves. The lock washer failed because I adjusted tension on it a few days before and I know it was as tight or tighter then when I put it together the last time.

So I was about to put the head on two days ago, and in cyl #1, right where the HG blew last year, (or directly across, not sure same area though) there is a dark wear mark that's about 1/4in wide. I can't feel it with my finger nail though so I don't know if its a problem or not.

Ive never taken apart the bottom end because I don't want to reuse the nissan fasteners or spend $300 in arp hardware for a engine that may not need it. Id much rather get nistune first and lots of other things.

Now I'm wondering the condition of the cyl 1 rings, and if there are bits of old head gasket material there. I KNOW that wasn't there before, and every thing else in in good shape.

The bad part is all i'm waiting on to put it in my car other wise is to put the engine together. Head has all the oil mods, and its ready to go minus some welding on the oil pan for the head drains. I even have a full gasket kit to use as well.

So now I'm looking at:

1-getting a stock ring set if my ringlands aren't cracked, using everything else as is2-getting forged pistons and arp hardware, and new bearings and using the old rods3- getting a rb25 with bent valves for $400-500, which i can get the valves from a z32, and id need a gasket kit.

So it'll either be under $500, or over $1000 for the latter options. Ug I should just put my VQ35 in already. Or something else USDM available...

~Alex


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RustspecS13
Posts: 928
Joined: Sat Sep 08, 2007 5:30 pm
Car: '74 260z and '88 300zx turbo

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Thats what I'm talking about. I cant feel the mark with my hand or fingernail, and that piston is also off set, and I think I can see the rings on the right.

Grr I just want my engine to run!

Yellow4g63
Posts: 3718
Joined: Mon Jan 20, 2003 6:07 pm
Car: 95 Nissan RB20 240SX RB20
91 Nissan NX2000 VE power
95 Nissan 240SX Stock
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Drop in the VQ and have fun since you don't need to repair it.

Sil240
Posts: 2973
Joined: Mon Apr 28, 2003 5:26 pm
Car: Nissan S13 "The One Cam Wonder"

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If you have every thing to get the VA runnig then don't bother with the RB. If not pull it apart and see what kinda damage you have. Or just pick up that 25 run it of the 20 ecu.

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RustspecS13
Posts: 928
Joined: Sat Sep 08, 2007 5:30 pm
Car: '74 260z and '88 300zx turbo

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I actually have a mountain of work to get the VQ in since all i have is the engine its self. Oh and the VQ does burn oil, but its usable as is.

The rb was suppose to hold me over and be a simple swap and tune deal, but with all this its just taking too much time and money.

I might just swap in the VG30E and a Z32 transmission since its usdm available and its a stupid strong engine. But then again I don't have anything laying around for that. They do sound very very nice when paired with equal length turbo manis and a twin scroll t4.

I really just need to throw the RB20 back together as is some how or pick up that rb25 and use my head or get some z32 valves.

Oh and apparently the rb25 doesn't have an exhaust cam. Would my rb20 one work?

~Alex

ST240
Posts: 575
Joined: Sun Aug 04, 2002 11:45 am
Car: RB30DET Nissan S13
'01 Nissan Pathfinder
Location: Edmonton, Canada

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You're talking about going forged and its gonna cost you $1000? How do you figure?

I can almost guarantee you'll need machine work on that block ala bore/hone, cant just slap new pistons into those bores. Not to mention balancing, decking, cleaning, might as well do bearings, that almost 100% means grinding the crank to do it right.

You'll be in for 3k, not worth it for a 20 imo.

Just go out and find a rb20 short block, hell if i already had pillaged all the parts i need for my rb30 i would give you the damn thing for a couple hundred. All your other options seem too time consuming/complicated.

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RustspecS13
Posts: 928
Joined: Sat Sep 08, 2007 5:30 pm
Car: '74 260z and '88 300zx turbo

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Exactly, Its only an rb20.

What I'm thinking is good enough is good enough. My friend with a VG30E turbo maxima replaced a bent rod and bad piston with the engine still in his car, with a 166K mile short block i sold him. He just threw the thing back together with no new parts other then gaskets. Old rings,piston,rod and bearing.

Hes still making over 400WHP and that was about 2 years ago.

I'm thinking of just tearing it down already and if the bottom end needs more then a hone just getting the rb25 and using my 2L head on the 2.5L block. I know it can be done, and Id just rebuild the 2.5L head and put it on later.

~Alex

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stevespeed
Posts: 671
Joined: Fri Jun 24, 2005 7:07 pm
Car: RB-Swapped S13, FTW
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its just a dark spot, did you just using some brake clean and see if it will come off? Its probably just a heat mark from when something blew.

User avatar
RustspecS13
Posts: 928
Joined: Sat Sep 08, 2007 5:30 pm
Car: '74 260z and '88 300zx turbo

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Well when the HG blew it only had a few minuets running time to diagnose it, and to drive it on the trailer then from there to the garage.

Then 700-800 miles of regular driving and the valves got bent. And I never tracked it then or it never got hot. So maybe it was a local hot spot idk.

I'll go try that but i doubt my luck will hold out.

~Alex

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Gabes13
Posts: 2385
Joined: Mon Mar 17, 2008 11:59 am
Car: rb20det s13
Location: St. Pete, Fl.

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Damn man.It seems everytime I come on here, you're having some trouble with your rb.No offense, but I hope I don't have this much trouble with my swap.

Hope things work out for you man.

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RustspecS13
Posts: 928
Joined: Sat Sep 08, 2007 5:30 pm
Car: '74 260z and '88 300zx turbo

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Just replace all your gaskets, HG included, and get arp headstuds and inspect your bottom end for crap like what I just found.

There's a guy on the RB20DET page on facebook making 600whp on a internally stock rb20. They are insanely tough in good condition.

~Alex

Edit- So I basically decided that I'm just going to get the rb25 and get some valves and drop it in. This is going to rock. RB25+ HX30 WOOT no traksuns har i com!

Yellow4g63
Posts: 3718
Joined: Mon Jan 20, 2003 6:07 pm
Car: 95 Nissan RB20 240SX RB20
91 Nissan NX2000 VE power
95 Nissan 240SX Stock
Contact:

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RustspecS13 wrote:Just replace all your gaskets, HG included, and get arp headstuds and inspect your bottom end for crap like what I just found.

There's a guy on the RB20DET page on facebook making 600whp on a internally stock rb20. They are insanely tough in good condition.

~Alex

Edit- So I basically decided that I'm just going to get the rb25 and get some valves and drop it in. This is going to rock. RB25+ HX30 WOOT no traksuns har i com!
I'd like to see this. Is it the guy from Canada? link plz.


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