RB20/25 exhaust manifold help

[Mountain_manC33]

yeah i have an exhaust mani that i want to put in but the problem is the rust.

what is the best stuff to put on the studs b4 going at it?

the last thing i want is to do is to replace all the studds.

i know WD40 would probably work but i want to have more options.

thanks a bunch.

[Spazz]

silver liquid anti-seize.

[300Plus]

use deep creep , spray it on the day before and the day of removing the nuts from the studs, then use anti-seize when you reinstall then nuts on the studs

[240z4u]

Stuff called Sili-Kroil

I am a service tech and deal with some super nasty rusty crap from time to time. This stuff never ceases to amaze me. Its available through eastwoodco.com and its not cheap.

You can actually see the stuff suck into the threads. Its amazing. This is hands down the best penetrant I have ever seen.

As you can tell I really belive in this stuff!!

Evan

[Bwana]

Kroil FTW.

[wawazat8402]

I havent had any problems with PB Blaster. Havent heard of Sili-Kroil, but we use their oil on some things. I will def have to check that out.

[Mountain_manC33]

Thanks a bunch ill start lookin those up.

[DJButton]

I love PB Blaster personally!

[l0nestar]

Kroil by Kano Labs. "The oil that creeps."

https://secure.cnchost.com/kan...73855

Eastwood has it, but you can also try Fastenal or any mechanical supply store. Possibly Lowes or Home Depot.

I guess you could try the Sili-Kroil with silicone, but not sure about for getting a bolt out.. I could work..

[l0nestar]

Also, PB Blaster or WD-40 could work, they are much easier to come by...

[themadscientist]

I replace studs. They snap to easy when they are old and have gone through many tousands of heat cycles and PFT torquings.

[l0nestar]

TMS is right about replacing them not being a bad idea. I think I paid under USD $40.00 shipped for my studs, nuts, washers, and yokes. A decent price, but nice to have all brand new shiny hardware, not broken / questionable parts.

[Mountain_manC33]

well like i said that is the last thing i want to do.

because i want to change out the turbin from a rb20 turbine to a rb25 turbine at the same time and last time i did that it took 5 hours because of the metal lines.

so thats y i want to see if i can find some good penitrating oil first.

and last thing whats PB Blaster?

[wawazat8402]

[themadscientist]

well like i said that is the last thing i want to do.

because i want to change out the turbin from a rb20 turbine to a rb25 turbine at the same time and last time i did that it took 5 hours because of the metal lines.

so thats y i want to see if i can find some good penitrating oil first.

and last thing whats PB Blaster?

Me confused. What does the switching of turbos have to do with stud replacement? How do the water lines even make it into the conversation?

As I understand this you have the stock manifold and it is off the engine, am I mistaken? It's a safe bet that the #6 stud will snap when you tighten the nut down. Every RB20 I have had has had that one split. The manifold must be expanding at a greater rate on the rearmost cylinders. It doesn't suprise me looking at the location of the turbo on a cast log manifold. The studs threaded into the head are easy to remove for replacement. New studs, nuts and washers are recommended. The washers will split if you try to reuse them and the nuts probably didn't come off without a fight and have battlescars. Now, the studs in the manifold to receive the turbo are a whole different story. They are going to snap and snap all kinds of nasty if you try to remove them; if they just need some wire brush work and a shot of anti seize consider yourself lucky and leave them in. Get new nuts though.

[240z4u]

Sili-kroil is the same as kroil. It just has silicone added so it stays around a bit longer I suspect.

Kroil products make PB blaster look like childs play. I used to use PB for everything (100x better than WD40, which is total garbage).

Evan

BTW, I think in his situation new studs are a great idea. I would worry about breaking them off in the head though. Getting the nuts off of them would be step one IMO. Then replace them.

[Abdo]

2 of the studs are broken off in my rb25 exhaust manifold.im afraid to drill then out because they might break again inside the head.any advice?

[wawazat8402]

I just finished dealing with this. I ended up just pull the head and taking it to the machine shop to ahve them remove them. I also decided to replace all the studs no matter what they looked like.

[Abdo]

I just finished dealing with this. I ended up just pull the head and taking it to the machine shop to ahve them remove them. I also decided to replace all the studs no matter what they looked like.

thanks, i'll keep that as a last resort.

[Mountain_manC33]

Me confused. What does the switching of turbos have to do with stud replacement? How do the water lines even make it into the conversation?

As I understand this you have the stock manifold and it is off the engine, am I mistaken? It's a safe bet that the #6 stud will snap when you tighten the nut down. Every RB20 I have had has had that one split. The manifold must be expanding at a greater rate on the rearmost cylinders. It doesn't suprise me looking at the location of the turbo on a cast log manifold. The studs threaded into the head are easy to remove for replacement. New studs, nuts and washers are recommended. The washers will split if you try to reuse them and the nuts probably didn't come off without a fight and have battlescars. Now, the studs in the manifold to receive the turbo are a whole different story. They are going to snap and snap all kinds of nasty if you try to remove them; if they just need some wire brush work and a shot of anti seize consider yourself lucky and leave them in. Get new nuts though.

o sorry to confuse you i just was saying that i wanted to spend a good long weekend on it because when i did the turbin swap in my skyline, it took soo long cuz of the water lines.

what i ment to say was that im going to spend a weekend to do the turbin, exhaust manifold and new radiator because im not in a time crunch and they all kinda intertwine.

which reminds me, will a weekend be long enough time to replace studs?

[themadscientist]

stud replacement should only take 30 minutes after the manifold is pulled. Unless you have busted studs that need to extracted it's a peice of cake, german chocolate cake with lots of shredded coconut, moist and delic,, Dam, now I'm hungry!

[Mountain_manC33]

stud replacement should only take 30 minutes after the manifold is pulled. Unless you have busted studs that need to extracted it's a peice of cake, german chocolate cake with lots of shredded coconut, moist and delic,, Dam, now I'm hungry!

yeah the guy who i bought the manifold from said that he put it into his skyline and broke a few studs and instead of replacing them, he decided to go from rb10 to rb25. but he was saying to let the car sit for a good week and spray penitrating oil (thats y i asked what is the best kind) then spend a weekend doing it.

but if i do come across broken studs what should i do? cuz if involves a lot more work then i think it does, then i might just sell it.

[Coolwhip]

but if i do come across broken studs what should i do? cuz if involves a lot more work then i think it does, then i might just sell it.

Don't sell it b/c of broken studs. Its not that bad, but its no fun. Especially if its one of the back ones that you have even less space than the front studs.

Depends how they break. If you are lucky they break with alittle of the stud showing which can be handled with a vice grip and some PB blaster.

Less lucky.. If the stud breaks off flush. This you can either drill out or use an extractor tool.

Worst.. If it breaks off deep inside. Then you might have problems using an extractor tool so you might just have to end up drilling it out.

Hope that helps and get some ARP exhuast studs, lol.

[Mountain_manC33]

that helps a lot

[Spazz]

use a TAP extractor , it costs a little more but they dont break as easy as easy-out- bits.

[themadscientist]

yeah the guy who i bought the manifold from said that he put it into his skyline and broke a few studs and instead of replacing them, he decided to go from rb10 to rb25. but he was saying to let the car sit for a good week and spray penitrating oil (thats y i asked what is the best kind) then spend a weekend doing it.

but if i do come across broken studs what should i do? cuz if involves a lot more work then i think it does, then i might just sell it.

If something as trivial as a stud extraction scares you just quit. Studs are a piece of cake, it only gets harder from there. What are really hoping to get out of this car. Think about it, be honest with yourself. If you are a little skittish take it down to Kinser and have Steve the Manager walk you through it. I have known him for a decade, he will be happy to help you.

[Mountain_manC33]

im not scared of it. trust me if i had more time here, i would be more worried about trying to fit 11j s under stock fenders.

but im just deciding weather or not to:

---put it in for a few good nights of drifting, then selling it in the car

or

---put it in for a few good nights of drifting, then taking it out, then sell the car

or

---leave it out and have a few good nights of drifting, then selling the car

tms, you probably know what i mean

[themadscientist]

not really. I have an established pattern

1.buy car with lots of go fast goodies that runs like crap for cheap.

2. Strip off all said goodies except air filter, exhuast, fuel augmentation, BOV, boost gauage, and boost controller.

3. Give car basic tuneup and fix broken and improperly done things.

4. Clean it up really good.

5. Go beat up on "fast" cars with it for about 3-4 months.

6. Sell car and any parts i don't want to keep for a profit.

I'm not a drifter, it's just not my thing. I like drag racing and top-end battles. If you find yourself on 58 between rotary and renaissance hotel and a black 180 comes out of nowhere and attacks you you better represent!

[Mountain_manC33]

thats where i see you. on zy no wonder "themadscientist" looks familiar.

well im kinda the opposite.

my 32, i got with suspetion, exaust and intake. and progresively put stuff onto it. but this one is kinda different, it had the essentials for drifting and very good parts indeed but i cant just part this one out because it still has jci on it.

but yeah i think ill decide to keep the stock one on. but thanks for all the input because now i know what to look for when i need to take one off in the future.

[themadscientist]

happy to be helpful. Stay away from Kadena with that new illegal mod gheyness going on!