RB Starter needed asap....

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
Booztd 3
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Guys

THis is an odd request but I HAVE to take my car somewhere this weekend thats very important, and im 99% sure the starter has finally puked on my car. It started over the weekend being pesky and I just clicked it over about 100 times in the garage with no luck, so if anyone has one and can get me one by friday, please email me at [email protected]

Even if your car is down for a month or two or whatever, I'd pay to borrow it or replace it as soon as I find one.......basically im asking for any help I can get.

Thanks

Andy


Joe
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if you cant find one, push start it

but it sounds like your battery is dead.

Booztd 3
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Kamin wrote:if you cant find one, push start it

but it sounds like your battery is dead.
Nah

I'm running an optima red top, and if the battery was actually dead, the fans wouldnt be on, or the defi guages, or the wideband, etc.....AEM is seeing 12V at the ecu as well

kjlindgr
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Does the AEM see 12V even when you hit the starter or does the voltage drop when you try to engage the starter?

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mello88
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It costs less than $100 to rebuild your starter, and should only take a decent shop a few hours. GL

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Carl H
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get it rebuilt, most shops can do it within a day...least the good ones can.

s13point5
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get it rebuilt. i didnt get a starter with my swap and ive been searching for a RB25 starter with no success

Joe
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Booztd 3 wrote:
Nah

I'm running an optima red top, and if the battery was actually dead, the fans wouldnt be on, or the defi guages, or the wideband, etc.....AEM is seeing 12V at the ecu as well
hate to tell you, but its possible for you to read full voltage but have a failed battery that wont start the car. all your accessories will work fine but it doesnt have enough juice to start it. its way less likley on a gel-cell but still possible. just start with the basics first. only takes a minute to test it.

Booztd 3
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Kamin wrote:hate to tell you, but its possible for you to read full voltage but have a failed battery that wont start the car. all your accessories will work fine but it doesnt have enough juice to start it. its way less likley on a gel-cell but still possible. just start with the basics first. only takes a minute to test it.
It is not the battery, I'll assure you

I've diagnosed/replaced a good 20-30 starters in my automotive experience, and this being my own car, I've noted the signs of a dying starter. Over the weekend it was taking 1-2 clicks of the ignition before the starter would engage, and yesterday it was takign 5-10 clicks before the starter would engage.

I would also consider a starter just as much of a basic as a battery. It takes just as long to remove teh battery and test it, as it does the starter.

A member on hybrid Z mentioned he was able to go to O-Reily Auto Parts and give them his starter and they found an applicaiton that was similar enough it worked perfect. Lets hope he can provide me a part # soon! I will pass that info on here

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s14kouki
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i have a spare RB25 starter

whoever wants it email me

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Carl H
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or just get it rebuilt for 70$.

Joe
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Booztd 3 wrote:
It is not the battery, I'll assure you

I've diagnosed/replaced a good 20-30 starters in my automotive experience, and this being my own car, I've noted the signs of a dying starter. Over the weekend it was taking 1-2 clicks of the ignition before the starter would engage, and yesterday it was takign 5-10 clicks before the starter would engage.
you neglected to mention that little tidbit of information in your original post lol

aaand since this isnt a tech thread anymore, please use the classifieds thread stickied at the top and the dedicated forum.

bltzkrg
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I have a starter for a rb20 I just bought from jarco then didn't use. Make me an offer if you want it.

skyHIGHblazing
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rebuild it- 90 bucks 2year warrenty on it-

Booztd 3
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Guys

Thanks for the input, i fixed that biatch tonight. Turns out there was a wire that wasnt makign a solid connection at the harness right under the igniton. The signal wire was seeing 12V however it wasnt pushing enough amperage to the starter. Chalk one up for the basics

Joe
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Booztd 3 wrote:Guys

Thanks for the input, i fixed that biatch tonight. Turns out there was a wire that wasnt makign a solid connection at the harness right under the igniton. The signal wire was seeing 12V however it wasnt pushing enough amperage to the starter. Chalk one up for the basics
*COUGH COUGH COUGH*
Kamin wrote:
just start with the basics first.
"ive diagnosed 25 starters bla bla bla"

Booztd 3
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Kamin wrote:*COUGH COUGH COUGH*

"ive diagnosed 25 starters bla bla bla"
I know I know I know....

Just freakish, Ive never seen that happen before. I typically dont get into amperage when working with car electronics, just voltage, so it made perfect sense that the starter was dead since the signal wire was getting 12V

Booztd 3
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Kamin wrote:
but it sounds like your battery is dead.
*cough*wheeze*cough


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BoostFab
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often time i find the starter's selenoid die first. try to grab a generic nissan 240sx compatible selenoid at the local auto store and see if that will revive the starter itself.

that is what i did on my old starter that died, and it came to life--to my surprise.

Booztd 3
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BoostsFed wrote:often time i find the starter's selenoid die first. try to grab a generic nissan 240sx compatible selenoid at the local auto store and see if that will revive the starter itself.

that is what i did on my old starter that died, and it came to life--to my surprise.
Had I determined the starter was actually at fault, I would have done somethign similar. I had a Z32 starter ready to yank the solenoid out of


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