vented hoods release under hood temps. your radiator makes a good amount of heat, and keeping it trapped in the engine bay increases temps.Darius wrote:yeah obviously the 26 won't have clearance issues, but my question is why someone would want a vented hood? Are you looking for cooling or looks? As far as looks go, that's debatable. As far as cooling aide goes, that's highly debatable. I don't have direct experience but it seems like the cooling by air flow through the engine bay would be minimal even with a vented hood.
i dont see that working to well.300Plus wrote:I'm thinking of using the small dryer vent I've scene used to ducted air to brake rotors. To route air from the front pumper area to behind the radiator to help push out that hot air.
I can see how removing the splash guard would make them worse: you're allowing the air to go around instead of through the engine bay... But shimming the hood making it worse? Hot air rises does it not? Unless its causing turbulence to somehow not let the air flow through the rad or something. I'd like to hear the explanation on that one.Cjmartz2k wrote:Just FYI, I've seen two articles out there showing that the spacers in the back of the hood trick as well as vents in the hood were WORSE for cooling (along with removing the under the engine tray).


The cowl area is a high pressure area, when you are driving with the hood propped the air goes back into that slot. Think cowl induction. It would help at idle or very low speeds, but above those you want that shut.ST240 wrote:I can see how removing the splash guard would make them worse: you're allowing the air to go around instead of through the engine bay... But shimming the hood making it worse? Hot air rises does it not? Unless its causing turbulence to somehow not let the air flow through the rad or something. I'd like to hear the explanation on that one.Cjmartz2k wrote:Just FYI, I've seen two articles out there showing that the spacers in the back of the hood trick as well as vents in the hood were WORSE for cooling (along with removing the under the engine tray).
I was actually considering putting several air temp sensors in my engine bay and playing around with the hood and stuff and seeing what worked best.
And that was exactly their point proved by under hood thermometers. There is high pressure there, and it does force air into the opening at the back of the hood. Thing is, that pressure also makes less air flow through the radiator in the front since there is now higher pressure in the engine bay.240z4u wrote:The cowl area is a high pressure area, when you are driving with the hood propped the air goes back into that slot.
Hm. Interesting. Kinda counter intuitive. You'd think a guy would increase the amount of hot air escaping the bay by opening up another place for it to get out... But i guess yeah, as you increase "oulet area" in a system velocity decreases and pressure increases... Unless it's a supersonic systemCjmartz2k wrote:And that was exactly their point proved by under hood thermometers. There is high pressure there, and it does force air into the opening at the back of the hood. Thing is, that pressure also makes less air flow through the radiator in the front since there is now higher pressure in the engine bay.240z4u wrote:The cowl area is a high pressure area, when you are driving with the hood propped the air goes back into that slot.

