RB billet oil pump gears

[Yellow4g63]

http://www.spoolimports.com/billet-oil- ... pump-gears

I haven't emailed them about it yet, I was just bumping around the web page and I saw it. They have them for the N1 pump too.

[Gabes13]

Is this supposed to be an alternative to installing a crank collar?

[Yellow4g63]

No it's to beef up the oil pump so it won't crap it self from high rpm operation.

[StricNyne]

def gonna need that for the 30 build

[Yellow4g63]

def gonna need that for the 30 build

Did something happen to the old motor?

[StricNyne]

nope selling it though, i picked up a 26 head, buIilding it, and waiting for my 30 block to build that and drop it in over weekend

[Yellow4g63]

nope selling it though, i picked up a 26 head, buIilding it, and waiting for my 30 block to build that and drop it in over weekend

Should be killer when you get it done for sure.

[Yellow4g63]

Got a email back from them, they say you can take to 10,000rpm.

[julio]

Got a email back from them, they say you can take to 10,000rpm.

As much as I would love a cheaper solution for a high rpm pump to Greddy/Jun/external etc, I still have reservations. First off, I'm not sure I would trust the quality of a part from a manufacturer when they call a sintered part made from "powdered metal."

Secondly, I think replacing the stock gears is a waste of time. No matter what process these parts are created from, I still think high rpm operation with a thin outer gear is a bad idea. Seeing as how bouncing off the rev limiter is how most of these units fail (usually mis-shifts), I believe it takes more material than what stock offers to prevent this failure mode (especially with the stress concentration of the wave profile). Greddy and Jun both have more stout gears, cost $1000 or more, and still fail from this occasionally (probably from losing strength from cyclical UTS loss/endurance limit stuff and heat cycling).

Lastly, but certainly not least, changing the manufacturing process from sintered to forged/milled (billet) doesn't solve the cavitation issues that this design is known for at higher rpm. Come to think of it, wear from cavitation may be another reason why the Greddy/Jun units fail over time.

[Yellow4g63]

Nitto pump or dry sump if I were building a 10k + rpm rb race motor. For a street car I think these pumps will fill the role.

[StricNyne]

i did a little math, n1 pump, and these gears is close to 1000 now i am kinda on the fence my boss is making a drysump 30 now but thats toooo much for street car like yellow said

[Yellow4g63]

I got 660ish. I see N1 oil pumps on ebay go for 200-220. Can you even use that oil pump on the RB30? I thought they had a different oil pump. Forgive my RB30 ignorance if they don't lol. Also that web site list the price in AUD not USD.

[Shocker]

From research of the failed RB oil pumps it seems to be more related to pump drive to collar slop that's the real killer. Keeping the stock pump around stock RPM I havent seen to many people have problems with that. (actually none that I have seen). I run an N1 pump with an extended drive keeping my revs to 7k.. so far so good.

[StricNyne]

shocker u bring the the 30 that high ? i was worried about harmonics shattering the gears, so i was gonna do the ross crank pullet and these gears

[Shocker]

Yeah hard cut is set to 7200 shift @ 7. I balanced my stock rods, RB25 stock balancer with over 3k of pretty hard miles on it. So far so good. there seems to be a lot of doubt in stock Nissan stuff and I haven't bought 100% in to everything. I'll see how it holds up.

[julio]

From research of the failed RB oil pumps it seems to be more related to pump drive to collar slop that's the real killer. Keeping the stock pump around stock RPM I havent seen to many people have problems with that. (actually none that I have seen). I run an N1 pump with an extended drive keeping my revs to 7k.. so far so good.

You're right about the crank -> oil pump drive being the #1 issue (for R32's), but when you're talking about getting a different oil pump over stock you should already have a collar or R33 crank installed. But since Yellow4g63 stated that the set of gears in question are to prevent high rpm failures, I thought I would chime in with some engineering opinions on why I wouldn't bother.

[Shocker]

From research of the failed RB oil pumps it seems to be more related to pump drive to collar slop that's the real killer. Keeping the stock pump around stock RPM I havent seen to many people have problems with that. (actually none that I have seen). I run an N1 pump with an extended drive keeping my revs to 7k.. so far so good.

You're right about the crank -> oil pump drive being the #1 issue (for R32's), but when you're talking about getting a different oil pump over stock you should already have a collar or R33 crank installed. But since Yellow4g63 stated that the set of gears in question are to prevent high rpm failures, I thought I would chime in with some engineering opinions on why I wouldn't bother.

I'm not referring to the length of the collar, I 'm referring to if you took a cross-section view of the crank collar with the oil pump in the view. The gap/distance from the "ID" of the pump drive to the "OD" of the collar is the main issue. If the two features are a more "line to line" fit, they essentially are one as they spin, with minimal slop between them - preventing wearing/pump gear breakage since they are always spinning at almost an identical rate. This eliminates the "jack-hammer" effect when hitting a rev-limit, anti-lag, boost cut w/e it may be that seems to break gears.

[julio]

I'm not referring to the length of the collar, I 'm referring to if you took a cross-section view of the crank collar with the oil pump in the view. The gap/distance from the "ID" of the pump drive to the "OD" of the collar is the main issue. If the two features are a more "line to line" fit, they essentially are one as they spin, with minimal slop between them - preventing wearing/pump gear breakage since they are always spinning at almost an identical rate. This eliminates the "jack-hammer" effect when hitting a rev-limit, anti-lag, boost cut w/e it may be that seems to break gears.

Ah ok, well perhaps I didn't give you enough credit then because I've never heard someone else bring this issue up. Fixing this would certainly help and I'm not even sure the FSM has a clearance limit for this either.