rattling interior??

[dnasty88]

anyone have the same problems i have? i have a rattle that sounds like in the back deck, one that sounds like its comming from the passenger rear area where the cup holder is and I have a rattle from my headunit area, more of a squeak. what can i do besides sound deadening? i was thinking about that in the future, but not at this point. are there any shops that will do it? how much for future reference.

[AppleBonker]

anyone have the same problems i have? i have a rattle that sounds like in the back deck, one that sounds like its comming from the passenger rear area where the cup holder is and I have a rattle from my headunit area, more of a squeak. what can i do besides sound deadening? i was thinking about that in the future, but not at this point. are there any shops that will do it? how much for future reference.

Sound deadening is probably the best bet. It will eliminate noise and vibration from the sheet metal. However, it will also provide a barrier between the sheet metal and the plastic trim (so the two cannot vibrate together). It will probably be quite pricey for a shop to install this. The work isn't difficult, but it can be backbreaking and take forever.

[NYblkcoupe]

I have a rattle on my door and my passenger door. And no i don't have anything in my side holders. And mines stock

[dnasty88]

dont you have to take a bunch of measurements and stuff and piece it together perfectly? and how would you run wires through it and what about screw holes and stuff?

[AppleBonker]

dont you have to take a bunch of measurements and stuff and piece it together perfectly? and how would you run wires through it and what about screw holes and stuff?

Nope, no measurements. I usually just cut a whole bunch up into random size pieces and slap it on there. The goal is to make as much contact between the sheet metal and the deadening material as possible. You can overlap deadener, but you don't want to to this if it decreases the level of contact to the metal. You can cover up any holes that aren't in use (which most of the ones that are in use already have bolts or whatever in them). The holes for the trim snaps I usually mark with a Sharpie so I don't cover them up. Also, sound deadener is pretty thin, so the wires just get installed over it. Wires that are already there you just work around.

[dnasty88]

can i put sound deadener under wires? and leave the wires over the top? and on the trunk lid did you just do the area thats under the carpet thing?

and what deadener did you use?

[AppleBonker]

can i put sound deadener under wires? and leave the wires over the top? and on the trunk lid did you just do the area thats under the carpet thing?

and what deadener did you use?

Yes, I generally try to work around wires (as in underneath them) in case I ever need to access them for any reason. I don't want to be ripping up deadener to fix a problem and then have to reapply it. Also, I only did the area under the carpeting of the trunk lid. Some of it is peeking out the sides, but it's relatively unnoticeable (which was my goal with my install).

There's a link near the bottom of the second paragraph on sound deadening in the FAQ that has a comparo of deadening products. I personally prefer Second Skin Audio Damplifier, but others have used different products with success. I would recommend staying away from Dynamat (not because it doesn't work, but because it's typically more expensive than many of the other brands - unless all of the pricing has changed in the last eight or so months).