new to the forums, heard this was a good place for help.
the paint on my car is horrible, but i cant afford a 2grand job so some friends and i are gonna rattle can it flat black. i was just curious as to what i should use to sand off the paint and what type of primer to use?
any advise is appreciated.
thanks
rattle canned 240
i just did this to my car, i'll tell you what i did. i'm no pro, so don't take this as gospel.
first i did all the body work, fixed hatch, shaved antenna, filled dents and dings. next i wet sanded the entire car with 300 grit wet/dry paper. then i wiped down the entire car wil prep-all. put on two coats of primer, dupli-color automotive.put on three coats of rustoleum flat black enamel.
some comments. if you can find a dupli-color flat black automotive paint, use it, the spray tip alone makes it worth it. the button is much easier to push so your finger won't get worn out, and the flat spray pattern covers easier. next, it won't come out perfect, don't ever think that it will. if you want a perfect paint job, start saving now. it's actually pretty hard to get the spray strokes to blend together. i found it works best if you use long strokes and overlap wet coats. if you paint a section with dry paint next to it, you will see lines. make sure you have a lot of time to do this, it takes a while for the paint to dry fully.
good luck, post some more questions if i missed something.
first i did all the body work, fixed hatch, shaved antenna, filled dents and dings. next i wet sanded the entire car with 300 grit wet/dry paper. then i wiped down the entire car wil prep-all. put on two coats of primer, dupli-color automotive.put on three coats of rustoleum flat black enamel.
some comments. if you can find a dupli-color flat black automotive paint, use it, the spray tip alone makes it worth it. the button is much easier to push so your finger won't get worn out, and the flat spray pattern covers easier. next, it won't come out perfect, don't ever think that it will. if you want a perfect paint job, start saving now. it's actually pretty hard to get the spray strokes to blend together. i found it works best if you use long strokes and overlap wet coats. if you paint a section with dry paint next to it, you will see lines. make sure you have a lot of time to do this, it takes a while for the paint to dry fully.
good luck, post some more questions if i missed something.
Long strokes is the key to a rattlecan job. See if you can get a garage with fans pulling air OUT, and make sure that you wet the floor well before painting. The water on the floor will settle the dust and keep it off of your paint. Also, so that you hand does not get too tired, try out some of the disposible handles that you can put on a rattle can. They are much easire to work with, if you find some that do not impede the flow of the paint.
i don't have any pics yet, i don't have a camera. it looks good from far away, but if you get up close are look at it closely you can see lots of flaws. i'm happy with the out come over all, only because i wasn't expecting too much and the car is already 12 years old. i started on saturday afternoon and drove the car tuesday night. i could have done it faster if necessary. it ended up costing between $50 and $75 for all the paint and bondo and whatnot. i never added up everything because i bought everything over a period of time.
if your paint is in bad shape or your car is several colors and you can't afford a real paint job (maaco isn't a real paint job, just a waste of money) then i say go for it. i like the look and it makes my car unique with out putting some ****ty body kit on it. also if i ever need to repair or replace anything or add a spoiler or something, all i need is another can of paint.
on a sidenote, my car was black to begin with so the engine bay and interior parts are already black. that made the decision so much easier for me. i hate (with a passion) respray jobs where they change the color but don't do the interior stuff. i also left the roof gloss black, i think it looks cool and blends in with the shiny glass on top of the car. of course the s14 has a distinct C pillar so it would look goofy on your car but i figured i'd mention it.
on a sidenote, my car was black to begin with so the engine bay and interior parts are already black. that made the decision so much easier for me. i hate (with a passion) respray jobs where they change the color but don't do the interior stuff. i also left the roof gloss black, i think it looks cool and blends in with the shiny glass on top of the car. of course the s14 has a distinct C pillar so it would look goofy on your car but i figured i'd mention it.
I am taking it a step further. My buddy has a home spray booth and gun, so we are going to take about 20 hours, strip the car, bondo/beat the dents out, and spray it flat primer white:) Uber l337.
The only problem I ahve with flat black is since ol Coleman did it in SCC, it has become all the rage with the kids. Hence, why I am doing white:)
The only problem I ahve with flat black is since ol Coleman did it in SCC, it has become all the rage with the kids. Hence, why I am doing white:)
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MainEvent212
- Posts: 4182
- Joined: Tue Mar 04, 2003 1:21 pm
- Car: 95 Nissan 240SX SE w/ SR20DET+goodies
use krylon, it's the most durable...and you dont have to primer, trust me on this one, just sand it down and then spray it..dont forget to wipe it down good before you paint and sand it smooth...the old paint w/o the clearcoat on it will act as a paint adhesive...after all, it's just a rattle can job anyawys
Just pop the steelies on, tape off what you don't want panted. Give you little brother and his friends a few cans of spray paint. Pop in your favorite show. Check on them in about 30 minutes and give them a popsicle break along with some Mt. Dew. Watch some more tv. They should be done in another 30 minutes. Give them each a dollar. You have a craptastic flat black paint job. Its not really a science painting a car flat black. Nick
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MainEvent212
- Posts: 4182
- Joined: Tue Mar 04, 2003 1:21 pm
- Car: 95 Nissan 240SX SE w/ SR20DET+goodies
eh, all i can say is lots of thin coats...that's the only secret...mask well and lots of thin coats...thick coats will take FOREVER to dry and it'll probably run and look icky...so just take your time...the first or even second coat dosent necessarily have to coat the car compltely, if you can see "through" the paint for a few coats, it's no big deal...it'll dry faster w/ 6 thin coats instead of 2 thick ones
rudee023 wrote:Here is what I did. No sanding, didn't even wash it:D Masked stuff off and went to town. Everyone always tells me how clean it is go figure. Pics on the sig.
Wow- great buildup. I like the car and your approach to building it. How many miles were on it when you bought it? What would you say that you have invested in it?
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MainEvent212
- Posts: 4182
- Joined: Tue Mar 04, 2003 1:21 pm
- Car: 95 Nissan 240SX SE w/ SR20DET+goodies
yeah, check out my cardomain too if u wanna see pics of a krylon car
http://www.cardomain.com/id/mainevent212
http://www.cardomain.com/id/mainevent212
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MainEvent212
- Posts: 4182
- Joined: Tue Mar 04, 2003 1:21 pm
- Car: 95 Nissan 240SX SE w/ SR20DET+goodies