Just wondering, did you jump start the car after the battery died? If so, that would explain the turbo timer problem. It will also effect some boost controllers. I jumped my car before, only to find my turbo timer failed to turn on at all (did so for a month). All these sensitive electronics are not made to handle a jump start (car to car). It is one of the worst things that can be done to a modern day automotive electrical system due to TWO charging systems fighting each other after the dead car starts. Also, I've learned to not believe any stories until I hear the other side (each story has two sides to it). Well to be blunt with you, I've heard Jason's side of the story and laugh at your ignorance for saying "the BOV isn't loud enough" to start an arguement.gtune4 wrote:well I guess if you have money you can put a shop together and attempt to do motor swaps.
but when someone hands you thier car expecting to get it back better than it was, and you tell them that the bov isnt needed because you couldn't get it to work right!?!?! the mother****er paid for it to work, what is your problem!? on our test drive of my buddys car, the batt died and sent the new turbo timer into safe mode and wouldn't come back on. we got back to the shop and he said "what did you guys do to it?" what the ****. what did you do to my friends car????? then when you tell him that you will leave the car so they can make it right and they say " you can leave it, but i'm not going to do anything to it" that is when you know you are dealing with an idiot. I guess he doesn't feel responsible, when legally he is. we'll se what happens. my friend was about to take his car home with no bov working and no turbo timer working because the guy basically said f u after my freind paid him (he shold have wiated untill after the test drive!!!
i told him to leave it untill it is right, but i will probably have to finish it.
i have seen good cars leave this place, but this was ridiculous.
guess you get what you pay for, then again, sometimes you dont
berets ARE cool
how about a test drive with extreme compressor surge all around.ItzGenX wrote:How did you go about testing the BOV? A SR barely builds any boost in neutral revs unless u begin to tap the rev limiter. Also, it depends on how much vacuum the actual motor is pulling to open the valve more. Depending on cam duration/lift, sometimes it will require taking out one of the springs in the Greddy Type S BOV. One thing I did notice however is that my friend let me borrow his 94 G20 with BB DET swap while he is on x-mas vacation, and his car's BOV doesn't even open during neutral revs (Type-S BOV). I asked him if he had a lighter flywheel etc, and the answer was "yes, it also has UR pullies for everything". So it was less load then a usual SR. He also has JWT S3 cams that pull less vacuum.