Ran up on curb, front wheel pushed back

[SketchyRollin564]

so i was driving the other night and was passing by a turn ive hit a few times that im comfortable with and i decided to hit it real quick. I didnt realize untill it was too late, but the sprinklers were on earlyer and the whole area where you would turn in was wet, so i understeered before the turn and was heading straight tward the curb.

i figured "no big deal, just straighten the wheel a bit and slow down so i dont hit that s***" . well my brakes are s*** as f*** no matter how much i bleed them, and just the front right wheel locks up with my foot down any more than half way on the brakes, so in any emergency situation, i cant slow down for s***, the same reason i rear ended that old lady that stopped short in front of me (time for brake upgrade)

so back to the story, i ran up on the curb facing forward, the front right wheel taking the initial impact at about 25-30 mph

that tire popped, and i i noticed that the right wheel was pushed back a little bit, and the whole assemby would wobble back and forth. I looked around with a flash light and narrowed it down to seeing the ball joint on the inner tie rod being loose as f*** and wiggling around. I figured thats also why the wheel was pushed back

I got the tire changed, and luckily i had brand new tein inners and outers that i never got around to putting on. I changed those yesterday, and the knuckle assemby stopped wobling but everything was still cocked back a little

i noticed the tension rod bracket was pretty bent, so ill be replacing that next, and the bushings in the tension rods were popped, so ill replace those with adjustable ISIS ones

but i looked at the FLCA on the pivot point where it connects to the car, and it looks like its stiting crooked. Im not sure if thats from the FLCA being bent, or some other s*** being bent, which is pulling the FLCA backwards. Im going to replace the FLCA with these since my ball joints are also f***, and thats one good f*** deal, its like $80 for just the FLCAs by themselvs
http://fcpimport.com/products/nissan-24 ... -240sx-sk1

but before i start spending money on replacing s*** thats perfectly fine, what else could be causing everything to shift back an inch or two like that?

id definatley like to get an allignment asap now that i changed my tie rods, and im getting new tension rods, but i want to fix this issue first

[OutToWinPAHC]

Ehh its a hard hit, you may want to consider swapping that engine crossmember. I think I under stand where the FLCA bolts to its bent? The coil / shock may also be messed up.

I know you got the FCLAs and Tension rods / bracket coming, but you may wanna try a part out, you might be able to get a cheap crossmember and knuckle.

[SketchyRollin564]

**double post**

[SketchyRollin564]

hmmm... well where the FLCA bolts up isnt bent, that s*** looks straight, but the FLCA sits crooked from the point it bolts on.... its kinda hard to explain. Kinda like the bushings got f*** so now it sits crooked? but it still shouldnt sit crooked like that, something must be pushing/pulling it back if its not bent

crossmember would be worse case scenario. How hard is that to change with the engine out of the car? I have to pull my SR out anyways and change the long block and turbo soon, so i might as well if i can scoop one up for cheap

the knuckle doesnt look like something that would bend, can it? Theres usually 240s at the junk yards around here, thats where i plan on getting the tension rod bracket and the cross member if i can find one with the engine out, so i coujld probably grab the knuckle for cheap

and as far as the coil being messed up... id really hope not. ive got d2 coilovers so there nothing fancy or expensive, but there still decent coilovers


also forgot to mention two of my wheel studs are wiggly, i tried pulling them in the same way you would put new ones on, and they dont tighten at all

luckily i have 6 new extended studs and good front hub laying around

[biggie]

Engine crossmember isn't hard to change after the engine is out. Just the matter of unbolting the suspension and a couple bolts on the crossmember. I changed mine out a couple years ago since mine was apparently bent.

[SketchyRollin564]

well ill definatley change the tension rod and bracket first, since i can get that the cheapest (friends got one good condition OEM rod for me for $10), the problem will most likeley still exist so illl be doing the FLCA next, and if it doesnt fix it, atleast i have brand new bushings and ball joints on brand new FLCAs

then after that im thinking, could the knuckle be bent? that would still be a hell of a lot easyer to change than the cross member