Ran my car tonite

For the RWD SR20DET cars! Sponsored by Wiring Specialties.
ItzGenX
Posts: 1204
Joined: Wed Sep 04, 2002 7:46 pm
Car: Smoke Purple 95' S14.5. Powered by the "Iron Man".
Location: Gulfport, MS
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95' 240SX SE non-LSD with S13 blacktop stock turbo and fuel. Blitz SUS intake kit, Greddy VSPL FMIC, turbo back 3" exhaust, Greddy Valve Springs, Greddy RAS, and Spec Stage II clutch. The run was done at 12.5psi with crappy tires and some wheelspin.

60ft. - 2.08330ft. - 5.831/8ET - 8.971/8MPH - 79.601/4ET - 13.851/4MPH - 101.03

For the slip, click below.Click Here


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Ace
Posts: 583
Joined: Tue Jul 30, 2002 8:35 am
Car: S14

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Thats a great 60 ft time for an open diff. I ran a 13.74 at 103.26 with crappy 195s all around. My best 60 ft was a 2.2

Good job.

Onizuka
Posts: 8450
Joined: Wed Nov 06, 2002 5:24 pm
Car: 91 Nissan S13 coupe SR20DET
89 Nissan S14 hatch SR20DE

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good time with just some boltons, new valve springs and a open dif. :thumbup

-matt

ItzGenX
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Joined: Wed Sep 04, 2002 7:46 pm
Car: Smoke Purple 95' S14.5. Powered by the "Iron Man".
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Hopefully when I get around to installing my haltech and tuning it with its two stage rev limiter, the car gets faster with the same setup. Most likely more consistant with a two stage. It was kind of hard not to bog while launching most of the time. A Kaaz is also on my list of to do's. That 2.08 60ft was done through luck and a long *** peglegg burnout on my crap cooper tires :icesangel .

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RobDET
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Itz... Good to see the car is running so well! Especially at GPT! thats easy a 13.70 at a decent track...

MojoMan
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Car: working on cars and women

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Very good job. You'll have the car in the 12's in no time.

ItzGenX
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Joined: Wed Sep 04, 2002 7:46 pm
Car: Smoke Purple 95' S14.5. Powered by the "Iron Man".
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Is GPT really that bad of a track? Everyone I know from Hattisburg comes down and races on it and says the same (it sucks).

To be honest, I didn't even expect a big body 240 (s14) with open diff and cooper tires could do such a run. All the weight is still in there too, stereo/subs etc while running (probably helped rear end traction a little). 12's in street trim is what I am aiming for speedwise, and 375-400whp is my power goal. Of course, probably for the power goal, I will end up building up a whole nother block for daily abuse.

Oh, I forgot to mention on the list of mods I had, that I am running splitfire DIS coil upgrade with the ignition timed to 17BTDC. I found the slight advancement to have way better throttle response and lowend spool. Recently before I put a timing light to my motor, I had it advanced all the way (ran super awesome, felt like all-motor when off boost) at 26BTDC! I didn't think it was safe, but it ran fine under stock boost like that for a month til I changed it to 17 last week. I never turned the boost up til before I properly timed it, so don't go out blowing ur SRs. :ylsuper

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RobDET
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Yah i didn't tighten my distributor one time and the SR advances it when it's loose. I drove it at about 12 PSI at full advance for about 2 months. Ran great... Still does but it's at stock timing now. Oah and with 375 you'll be running 11's.

I think you can get mid 12's with 270 RWHP if you can put it down...

Phax
Posts: 1624
Joined: Tue Nov 12, 2002 6:24 pm
Car: Control dynamics

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ItzGenX wrote:...Oh, I forgot to mention on the list of mods I had, that I am running splitfire DIS coil upgrade ...


Thank you!! THANK YOU!! THANK YOU!!!!

Where were you when I posted my question months ago asking about coil pack upgrades for SR20?!?!?!!?

What's the story with the DIS? Where did you get them? How much did they cost? Was your spark falling apart at high RPMs too?

Thanks in advance for any insights into the DIS packs.

ItzGenX
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Joined: Wed Sep 04, 2002 7:46 pm
Car: Smoke Purple 95' S14.5. Powered by the "Iron Man".
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I got my Splitfire coils from Enjuku for 449.00 (can be had for 400 from phase2, enjuku was just always faster at shipping stuff to me instead of 2 weeks, they take 2 days). The reason for me buying it to begin with was my missfiring problem. No matter how much smaller I gapped it, the problem would reoccur and become worse then it was. The missing happened during idle and low end when the gap was down to .028. The high end did not see missing around 3k and above til usable boost was reached (around 3psi). I then knew it had to be my factory coils in bad shape or something.

Anyway, the upgrade was very simple. Just pull the old coils out and unplug the harness from them. Place the spacers under the mounting hole on the splitfire coils and screw them in just like stock. Plug in the supplied coil subharness and controller/amplifier box. Find a spot on the firewall to ground the box. Finished. (of course mounting will take longer then installing it, mine is yet to be mounted)

As for how the car runs, the difference was light and day. I had it installed last week (after having the car run for a couple months). I got so used to the missing, I was letting my foot off the throttle at certain loads and rpm where missing would usually occur. The idle is very smooth and it pulls hard all the way to redline (turbo flow levels off to about 9psi at redline though). It is a great product, and I would recommend it to anyone who even see's a slight miss. My motor never hiccups anymore and I can run more then 3psi. I am going to change my gaps to a bigger gap to give myself a little more low end power (still set at .028).

Edit: The Splitfire upgrade does not replace your stock ignitor chip.

Phax
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Joined: Tue Nov 12, 2002 6:24 pm
Car: Control dynamics

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GenX,

Thanks for the well worded reply. I recently went through the spark plug selection process. I ended up with some Bosch F5DTC's, that come with .028 gap. I have yet to take the car back up to the point where the spark was falling apart though. I'm gonna wait until I have all the gauges in, so that I can really see what's happening.

If the issue persists with the new plugs, I'm gonna try the DIS coils.

I'm so glad that I'm getting all these bugs worked at 7psi. =)

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ride4lame
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I have been thinking about getting the splitfire system as well. But i have also been contemplating getting the Apexi Power FC. Does anyone know if I would have any trouble with the two systems running with each other. It seems to me that if the splitfire uses the stock ignitor chip i should be fine as long as i tune properly. What do you guys think? Thanks

By the way. super good run, congrats!

Phax
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Joined: Tue Nov 12, 2002 6:24 pm
Car: Control dynamics

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Ride,

The coilpack upgrade simply improves the quality of the spark, and as you mentioned, uses the stock ignitor chip. Therefore, there's nothing that would be incompatable with any sort of plug in engine management sort of system.

ItzGenX
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Joined: Wed Sep 04, 2002 7:46 pm
Car: Smoke Purple 95' S14.5. Powered by the "Iron Man".
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Any DIS-4 ignition module can be hooked up to the Power FC. There are four trigger outputs that go to the ignitor to know which cylinder to fire on. These four triggers can also power an MSD DIS-4 system provided you wire up the four trigger wires correctly. The HKS Twin Power DLI unit works the same as the MSD except it is prewired. In my case, my coils were weak so I went for the coil upgrade. If I ever need more spark (which I doubt I will), I can always add-on the MSD or the HKS to better the spark.

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ride4lame
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thanks for the reply!! I think i will be using that combo

Phax
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Car: Control dynamics

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ItzGenX wrote:... In my case, my coils were weak so I went for the coil upgrade. If I ever need more spark (which I doubt I will), I can always add-on the MSD or the HKS to better the spark.


I saw that Phase2 sells both the DIS coils, and the HKS ignition upgrade. How did you determine that your coils were weak? Is there some kind of diagnostic machine that you can hook them up to?

I'm wondering because I get deep discounts on HKS stuff. So if I can get HKS ignition for less than the DIS coils, that probably makes the most sense to do.

ItzGenX
Posts: 1204
Joined: Wed Sep 04, 2002 7:46 pm
Car: Smoke Purple 95' S14.5. Powered by the "Iron Man".
Location: Gulfport, MS
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Simple, because my ignitor wasn't the problem as it fired on all cylinders and all rpm. The ground was tested to be solid, and the wiring was checked for continuity and resistance. That only left the coils left to be the culprit OR the ecu. When I got my motor, one of my coil packs was corroded with water etc still in it. I think that one was probably messed up.


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