hey.. can someone tell me 1) what the difference is between RAM air.. and COLD AIR?... 2) if the product says Ram Air Induction System 12 Valve... but fits 240sx from 89-94.. how is this?.. when the engine is 16 valve?.. or is my memory messed up and it is 12 valve?.. haha... and... 3) which is better.. RAM / COLD...
thanks for you input!
RAM AIR INDUCTION SYSTEM s13
a cold air intake is usually not what you see when guys have hoods with slits in the top. the idea is to gain HP by putting air at a colder temperature in your engine. colder air expands more than hot air. RAM air i think uses the same principle as turbos. they increase the air pressure that goes into the cylinders, therefore increasing HP
if there is a replacement for displacement, it's compression
if there is a replacement for displacement, it's compression
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96_S14_SE
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Cold air is just that. You relocate the filter so that it sucks in colder air then what is found normally under the hood. These are the filters you see with extensions on them putting them behind the front bumper and out of the engine bay.
An example is the injen intake for the 240. Basic is just an intake sytem like anyother. Then there is a cold air extension. Look these two up for images and youll see.
Ram air is much better but does have some downsides. It has all the advantages of a cold air system but with out exposing the filter to the direct elements. It encapsulates the intake element in a canister of some sort that is 100% sealed around the filter minus an intake port. This means ari can only come in from one spot and must exit through the filter into the intake. This port often is put directly into a stream of air. Like the nostrils on a firehawk's hood. When speed increases the air is forced into the port thus creating a psudo boost environment. Generally not much is obtained but the faster you go the more is air compression is achieved. Cup your hand at 35 mph out the window then at 90mph see the differance.
The only thing is that it takes more air to go faster so they ballance themselves out to a point. It is definately better then no pressure or a vaccume in the intake.
Before my ram air canister was 100% sealed (used cotter pins to hold the mounting plate / filter into the canister allowing air to blow through the seal, and now use bolts
) I hooked up a vaccume / pressure gauge to a intake vaccume line and mounted it in the car. I drove home and had 0% vaccume in the engine at 80 mph. Since the engine is just a pump I was effectively ballancing out the vaccume normally found in our engine at speed, with the pressurized air. This allows the engine to work easier and breath better thus freeing up hp (bad thing is you need speed for it too work thus cant be dyno'd unlless you simulate the pressure with say a gas leaf blower).
This setup has been proven to give me .1 - .15 minimum (better as the temps decrease) lower times in the quarter, with my car which happens to be equipped with a power hungry automatic. The reason a ram air setup can work on all 89 - 93 cars is because they all have the same intake layout. Its not dependant on the engine but the layout of the intake in regards to the chassis. This is because of fitment and install reasons.
The other downside is that the total intake tract is lengthened. I have to go so I wont type it but do some reasearch on short stack intakes and the normal length intakes for a 240 and the pros and cons of each. Its basically the same thing, but I have the benifit of psudo boost hehe.
If you want a pic of my s14 setup just ask.
An example is the injen intake for the 240. Basic is just an intake sytem like anyother. Then there is a cold air extension. Look these two up for images and youll see.
Ram air is much better but does have some downsides. It has all the advantages of a cold air system but with out exposing the filter to the direct elements. It encapsulates the intake element in a canister of some sort that is 100% sealed around the filter minus an intake port. This means ari can only come in from one spot and must exit through the filter into the intake. This port often is put directly into a stream of air. Like the nostrils on a firehawk's hood. When speed increases the air is forced into the port thus creating a psudo boost environment. Generally not much is obtained but the faster you go the more is air compression is achieved. Cup your hand at 35 mph out the window then at 90mph see the differance.
The only thing is that it takes more air to go faster so they ballance themselves out to a point. It is definately better then no pressure or a vaccume in the intake.
Before my ram air canister was 100% sealed (used cotter pins to hold the mounting plate / filter into the canister allowing air to blow through the seal, and now use bolts
) I hooked up a vaccume / pressure gauge to a intake vaccume line and mounted it in the car. I drove home and had 0% vaccume in the engine at 80 mph. Since the engine is just a pump I was effectively ballancing out the vaccume normally found in our engine at speed, with the pressurized air. This allows the engine to work easier and breath better thus freeing up hp (bad thing is you need speed for it too work thus cant be dyno'd unlless you simulate the pressure with say a gas leaf blower). This setup has been proven to give me .1 - .15 minimum (better as the temps decrease) lower times in the quarter, with my car which happens to be equipped with a power hungry automatic. The reason a ram air setup can work on all 89 - 93 cars is because they all have the same intake layout. Its not dependant on the engine but the layout of the intake in regards to the chassis. This is because of fitment and install reasons.
The other downside is that the total intake tract is lengthened. I have to go so I wont type it but do some reasearch on short stack intakes and the normal length intakes for a 240 and the pros and cons of each. Its basically the same thing, but I have the benifit of psudo boost hehe.
If you want a pic of my s14 setup just ask.
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240sxrunner
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96_S14_SE
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Well your gonna have to wait hehehe. It pouring out here in FL right now. 
I had some images but there where just general engine shots Ill get a cpl specific canister type shots in the afternoon and post em then.
BTW boofa what product is this? I have never seen a ram air system offered on the 240 before.
I had some images but there where just general engine shots Ill get a cpl specific canister type shots in the afternoon and post em then.BTW boofa what product is this? I have never seen a ram air system offered on the 240 before.
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MaineExport
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RAM AIR intakes from Injen, AEM, OBX and others, do not really create a ram-air induction. It is just a 'short-ram' inducion for lack of better term. They all call it 'short ram' or 'ram-air' intake, but it is entirely meaningless.
I have the AEM 'shor-ram' intake.... and a custom cold-air duct from the front bumper. Both the cold-air-intake and short-ram have positive and negative attributes. The CAI will get you cooler air, but you double the volume of air that needs to be sucked through the intake tube. This creates a slight increase in resistace. The 'short-ram' will pull in warmer air from under the hood, but it has half the amount of air volume to pull in. My setup works pretty well, I have a shorter, less restrictive intake that gets cold air as soon as the vehicle starts to move
A true ram-air induction will have a forward-facing hood scoop, or air duct in the bumper. This will lead directly into the filter housing. It is supposed to create a slight boost effect, as air is literally forced into the TB.
I have the AEM 'shor-ram' intake.... and a custom cold-air duct from the front bumper. Both the cold-air-intake and short-ram have positive and negative attributes. The CAI will get you cooler air, but you double the volume of air that needs to be sucked through the intake tube. This creates a slight increase in resistace. The 'short-ram' will pull in warmer air from under the hood, but it has half the amount of air volume to pull in. My setup works pretty well, I have a shorter, less restrictive intake that gets cold air as soon as the vehicle starts to move
A true ram-air induction will have a forward-facing hood scoop, or air duct in the bumper. This will lead directly into the filter housing. It is supposed to create a slight boost effect, as air is literally forced into the TB.
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96_S14_SE
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- Car: 96 S14 SE - 05 VW GTI 1.8t - 89 S13 coupe "gold on brown"
A true ram-air induction will have a forward-facing hood scoop, or air duct in the bumper. This will lead directly into the filter housing. It is supposed to create a slight boost effect, as air is literally forced into the TB.
Yup
And thanks for giving a quick description of what the added intake length does. Its also better for torque IIRC, thats why trucks / and the 240 generally have a longet intake tract.
With the ram air you have the added intake length, and no pressure, thus no real improvement vs cold air, at low speeds. Its not untill the speed picks up , of course that, it becomes benificial.
Plus you need an 8" canister in order to fit a JWT pop charger in there. Rather funny as most people dont know what the hell it is Youll see after I go to the doctors Ill try to take a few pics of the whole setup.
Yup
And thanks for giving a quick description of what the added intake length does. Its also better for torque IIRC, thats why trucks / and the 240 generally have a longet intake tract.
With the ram air you have the added intake length, and no pressure, thus no real improvement vs cold air, at low speeds. Its not untill the speed picks up , of course that, it becomes benificial.
Plus you need an 8" canister in order to fit a JWT pop charger in there. Rather funny as most people dont know what the hell it is
Youll see after I go to the doctors Ill try to take a few pics of the whole setup.-
96_S14_SE
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Never had a problem with water. Well I have, but only because it pours here in florida, and water plus dusty florida = 1/4" of mud crap on the filter durring the summer months. I used to have to clean it out with every oil change (3k miles). Now I just stuff a 1" thick scotch brite pad in the inlet where the 90° meets the straight inlet portion of the canister when it rains.
Yould see, it basically is a funnel mated to a 90° aluminum elbow, as part one. The casister is 8" round with a 3" inlet fiberglassed / siliconed on to it. The end caps are 1/4" acrylic with the front being mounted between the maf and the JWT pop chargers venturi, which also has 3 holes for the bolts to go through. This part is removable, of course hehe, while the back portion is sealed to the 8" canister.
The stock hole through the fender was inlarged 1/2" to accomodate the 3" pipe with the mighty dremel. On the end of the 3" dia inlet is a screen to keep the big stuff out, and the 90° portion mates to that via hoseclamp.
I just stuff the pad up in there if I leave, and its pourng. It will slow the water, and keep alot of it out. Plus it will trap alot of the sand in the water from going in there as well. But I just thought of this mabey 2 months ago and have had the ram air on my car for, I dont know 1.75 yrs - 2 yrs now. Its not the best method but It helps a little, doesnt mess up my system, takes 2 seconds (literally to stuff in there), and cost mabey 1$
As long as I dont go swimming in my 240 it wont suck up water. And if it does, am I tool and deserve a hydro locked / dead engine Actually I would deserve worse but that would be a start
Yould see, it basically is a funnel mated to a 90° aluminum elbow, as part one. The casister is 8" round with a 3" inlet fiberglassed / siliconed on to it. The end caps are 1/4" acrylic with the front being mounted between the maf and the JWT pop chargers venturi, which also has 3 holes for the bolts to go through. This part is removable, of course hehe, while the back portion is sealed to the 8" canister.
The stock hole through the fender was inlarged 1/2" to accomodate the 3" pipe with the mighty dremel. On the end of the 3" dia inlet is a screen to keep the big stuff out, and the 90° portion mates to that via hoseclamp.
I just stuff the pad up in there if I leave, and its pourng. It will slow the water, and keep alot of it out. Plus it will trap alot of the sand in the water from going in there as well. But I just thought of this mabey 2 months ago and have had the ram air on my car for, I dont know 1.75 yrs - 2 yrs now. Its not the best method but It helps a little, doesnt mess up my system, takes 2 seconds (literally to stuff in there), and cost mabey 1$
As long as I dont go swimming in my 240 it wont suck up water. And if it does, am I tool and deserve a hydro locked / dead engine
Actually I would deserve worse but that would be a start -
96_S14_SE
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Well I took some pics even though it was dark out, and whipped this up. You cant really see the funnel part next to the foglight and at the end of the 90° in the frontal shot. You also cant see where the 3" piping connects to the 8" canister. Mabey Ill clean the filter and touch it up tommorow in prep for sundays auto-x, then Ill take a shot of it assembled but outside of the car so you can geta better idea.
I present to you the Enigmatic Industries Ram-Air canister with JWT pop charger for the S14 hehe
Its not a show winner but it gets the job done. Also note the 3$ aluminum tape and 24oz roven heat wrap
I present to you the Enigmatic Industries Ram-Air canister with JWT pop charger for the S14 hehe
Its not a show winner but it gets the job done. Also note the 3$ aluminum tape and 24oz roven heat wrap
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MaineExport
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96_S14_SE wrote:You guys wanted pictures, I got the pictures, and no one replies??
Its like being at the Dragstrip where people walk by, say to themselfs "wtf is that" but dont ask me hehe.
Oh and btw yes I still have the wheel well trim I just pulled it back to expose the piping (bottom 2 images)
I want to know what you used for a canister. I have the same setup in theory, with the exception of the sealed canister. I just wanted mine to duct cold air to the intake. But I might set it up for a ram-air application if I can score the canister and extra plumbing real cheap.
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96_S14_SE
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Dont laugh, it 8" green sewage / drainage pvc tubing. You know the stuff that lies on the side of the raod when they are making a new one. This peice was 15 yrs old believe it or not. My gf's grandfater got a 3' section and tossed it over the fence and when we asked if he had anything he remembered it and it was still there.
Its green on the inside and I could post a dirty inside pic hehe. I bet if you went to a new road or road repair site they would just lob a section off for you. Might also to be able to find it at construction sites, like the apartment building sites. Other wise I think the minimum is 10', and you only need I think like 11 inches.
Its green on the inside and I could post a dirty inside pic hehe. I bet if you went to a new road or road repair site they would just lob a section off for you. Might also to be able to find it at construction sites, like the apartment building sites. Other wise I think the minimum is 10', and you only need I think like 11 inches.
Short Ram is quite effective on s13's with the correct "droopy eye" angle to their headlights... the correct angle opens up a 1" x 12" gap that blows cold air directly onto the short ram intake... you get the best of both worlds in this situation... it would be even better if the filter was facing towards the outlet so that instead of the air going into the filter and out the other it scooped it up, like a ram air intake...