Radio modifications... but not directly to the radio.

[UndeGuy]

So here's the current setup:

99.5 PathfinderAlpine IDA-X305 HUiPod Touch 2nd genand mostly stock where it pertains to the radio

The Problem: (for me)

Radio shuts off while you are trying to start the PF. How to provide it temporary power?

Description:

I will often leave my car on, but not have the engine running, mostly to listen to my iPod. The reason that the radio shutting off while starting the engine bothers me is that the Alpine unit has to do a FULL boot up everytime and that just kinda annoys me.

By temporary, I mean, is there a way to get power to the radio that is similar to the headlamps? As most of you know, after shutting off the engine and removing the keys, the headlights (and the windows in fact) will stay on until you open the door or after a set amount of time, which ever happens first. So, I was thinking, what can I get/do to control the radio similarly? So that way, the radio will stay on while starting the engine (assuming that it doesn't prevent the engine from starting).

On a side note... I kinda wished I had that feature where the volume changed with the road/engine noise. I'm guessing that's more of a HU dependent feature. oh well.

[N2mesnob]

I'm no audio installer, but have you tried running a capacitor???

[UndeGuy]

While I was thinking about how the highlights and windows might work, I thought of the same thing you mentioned, that they most likely have a capacitor.

But let's just say, unlike my intermediate knowledge of computers, I'm a total "idiot" when it comes to cars... and their electronics. So I try to keep any cutting, splicing, soldering to a minimum. Maybe idiot isn't the right word, since I did replace the HU and put a HID conversion kit... and kinda started with the speaker replacement (from stock to pioneers). I'm reluctant on adding caps and resisters.. since one bad piece, and I can fry the already finicky electrical system.

I thought about running a line from the lights/winders (after the relay/cap) but figured I'd more likely end up causing a short since it'll still have it's original power line.

Let's say I do it myself with something like a cap, I wonder if I can put an inline cap where the HU wiring harness is. I have it set up in a way that I can unplug the two ends of the harness (HU end and factory adapter end). If so, the question now is... what sized cap? <-- this is why I'm reluctant.

[N2mesnob]

I'm not sure we are think of the same thing... I'm thinking of an audio capacitorSomething like this: If you don't want to do it yourself, you can try taking it to an audio installer and see if they will do it for you.

[Qxxx4]

dont newer ford vehicles do this? radio and lights stay on till door opens? hmmm well there is an ignition wire to the head unit, if i remember correctly it was just a signal like the signal that goes to your amp for remote turn on (to not drain your battery), if im remembering that aspect right, all that would need to be done is wire this to the source that keeps the headlights on until the door opens.

This is a great idea. a very great idea!!!

in newer benz's you can set how long you want your license plate light to stay on after you leave your car.....i like these little details...

[UndeGuy]

My brother-in-law (the same one this PF belongs to, since I have two brother-in-laws) bought a 1995 Corvette, when he was still single. After he and my sister got married, he decided to sell the Vette... and my brother bought it. =.='

Anyway, it has both features I was talking about... the radio will stay on after you shut off your engine and take the keys out and has the option for the volume to change with the "noise." Too be honest, I'm not sure if it's based on engine rpm, car speed or if it has a mic built in to check for noise. I just know that the faster you go, the more noise there is and the volume stays roughly at the same level above it.

re N2mesnob

From what I could find online, audio capacitors like that are mostly for line conditioning/supplementing. Like one website said, if your lights are dimming while playing music, this is why you would need one near your amp. That being said, I guess caps are not it then.

re Qxx4

I read bmlawless' thread on rewiring the fogs... and while I really do like the goal, I'm reluctant on the process. Stuff like that makes me nervous, both doing it and once done. Heck, when I installed the Alpine, I used an adapter. It told me to put the antenna and amp wires together so that both are powered by just the amp remote turn on. THAT bothered me, in more than one way. I was uncomfortable with powering two things with one wire... that might not be able to do so. Eventually, I separated them because I didn't like having my antenna up while listening to the iPod. What's the point?

I'm thinking of taking that adapter out... Maybe it's just me, but even with the gain on the adapter on full, it doesn't sound very loud. But then again, maybe the Bose system was messed up when the old radio blew out.

(this forum needs a "preview" option...)
Modified by UndeGuy at 10:59 AM 6/19/2009

[Qxxx4]

dont be reluctant on the fog light mod, you dont even need to OPEN the relays, he did it to have a solid connection. what i did was bend that pin he cut, then soldered the wire to that, and then I soldered the other wire directly to the pin which still fit into the socket. All that matters is you have solid solder connections i.e your able to pull and it doesnt come out, and you use a decent size wire gauge. If you've never soldered before this is a great way to learn...strip wire....wrap wire around relay pin, heat pin/wire, add solder while heating, let cool down, pull hard. thats it! Only thing you have to worry about is melting the plastic on the relay (hard to do if you solder near bottom of pin). My relays were sealed shut so I didnt bother trying to rip them apart. I ruined my nissan one doing this (the nissan ones have a housing around the pins, aftermarket relays dont allowing you to solder to them)

Your fear of powering two tings with one wire is funny, it makes sense though. What you need to realize is that everything is powered by a 12V source, your battery (when car is off). All the electronics in the car tap into the same DC power. Its the components inside your amp/headunit/lights that regulate how much power they get. The only issues youll have with powering two things with one wire are too much current, (thin wires will melt) or not enough current causing the electronics to not turn on at all. Its simple. If your dealing with small electronics such as an antenna you dont have much to worry about. Your head unit does have an internal amplifier, but rigging up a small current device such as an antenna to that wireor amp turn on, wont affect it.

if you want any detailed pics i can get them for you but im sure you know what I mean. Youve always gotta start somewhere!
Modified by Qxxx4 at 12:33 PM 6/19/2009

[UndeGuy]

I know that the battery (and in-directly, the alternator/engine) supplies all the power for everything, but like you mentioned, thin wires burning or not enough current are things I'm trying to avoid, along with blowing fuses. I've blown the cig socket fuse THREE times in a week, when I was using a splitter (ipod charger and gps). Although I bought a different splitter, I no longer use it because I plug the ipod to the HU. Whenever I charge my phone, I just use the cig socket in the rear.

Another thing is... I have a bit of that "Type A" personality (it clashes a great deal with my laziness). Just the thought of that one wire from the fog to the a/c relay, not to mention your suggestion of bending (and now "exposing") the pin, goes against my Anal retentive personality. lol. I tell ya, being anal retentive and lazy is a BAD combo.

Hum... thinking about it a little... doing the radio wouldn't be as "easy" as the fogs... since I think I might have to run the wire directly to the wiring harness. And I don't even know where the other end is going to come from... guess I'll find out when I look for the relay. I'm assuming that running off the relay won't mean my radio only works when my headlights are on, right? Trying to remind myself that the relay provides power after the key is turned and is before the switch on the steering column. =.='

I guess ultimately, I have to think about it some more.

[fueler]

Sometimes the solution is more simple than you think. Just run a small wire from the battery + terminal, to the headunit power wire. Instead of using the 12v power from the factory wire harness. That will accomplish exactly what you are looking for.

[Qxxx4]

thatd be a bad idea since if he forgets to turn off his head unit it will drain his battery, or it will just end up being a pain in the a** having to shut it off every single time

[UndeGuy]

thatd be a bad idea since if he forgets to turn off his head unit it will drain his battery, or it will just end up being a pain in the a** having to shut it off every single time

You better believe it! Total PITA for me!!! lol

I love the headlights in the PF... NEVER have to flip the switch, I just leave it on low beam to act like (bright) DRLs in the day time. Shut off the engine, open the door and poof, light goes off by itself! Of course, leaving them on could explain why I managed to burn through two pairs of UltraStar bulbs in six months. Then again, I don't really do all that much daytime driving and night time is about same as most people (I think).

The only time I touch my radio is to change tracks/volume. I'd rather not risk draining my battery, which I'm sure I will at least a few times if I did that. Not to mention having to explain that every time to anyone else that decides to use the PF.

re fueler

I'm not sure about your HID kit, but when I installed my kit, I had to think a while when I found out I had to wire the relay directly to the battery.

[fueler]

nah its not bad. you have to be deaf to leave your car with the radio on. thats how old school volkswagens were setup from the factory (rabbit, fox, etc) granted their old school tape decks probably used less power than an alpine with an ipod lol

[UndeGuy]

While I am half deaf (one sided deafness), that isn't an issue. What is an issue is that I have a really bad tendency to tune things out and do things on "automatic." I can sleep through two nieces and a nephew running amok.

I figure, if I'm gonna run wire, I might as well put some effort into it now and run it to something like the headlamp relay. This way, I put LESS effort when I use it...

Did I mention, I'm lazy? To that end, I sometimes plan things to make it easier in the future.

Which reminds me, I should ask my brother-in-law when the last time, if ever, he changed the battery... Well, I'm not sure if that's a cause for my dash to be a tad on the dim side. It's visible a night with the adjust at full. But feels like it should be a touch brighter... just like my radio feels like it should be a touch louder (I feel odd turning it 3/4 of the way up just to listen comfortably)... maybe it's just me.

[Qxxx4]

get some high quailty LED's for your dash...its VERY easy to remove the dash and the bulbs have twist in sockets, you just pop in the proper wedge based LED's. Id reccomend white, i bought blue ones but they were definately not as bright. Im considering making my own LED, i have the base for the #74 socket, considering wiring up a 3-4LED setup sticking out of that, if i use 3mmLED's i should be able to fit them in the hole with a proper resistor and heatshrink wrapping. Hmmm...weekend project maybe? Depends if the weather is bad or not!

As for the wiring to the headlamp relay, id investigate what detects when the door opens, you may have a closer point you can get the door ajar signal from. The open circuit may not even happen at the relay itself. I feel like tearing apart my deck and testing voltages and messing with the headlight circuitry....i see another broken component in my horizon! still didnt replace my Heated seat switch from my blue LED conversion attempt that went horribly wrong.

Somebody around here has schematics for our cars wiring dont they? id LOVE those, if not ima get an electronic field service manual off ebay for like $10, put that biatch to good use!!

My battery is well over 5 years old. Somehow it survived the last few winters, and has no trouble starting my engine, and it charges pretty quickly too, but when i listen to my stereo for more than 10mins at medium volume, DEAD. ill buy a new battery before winter. my dad raves about Interstate batteries, theyve got a good warranty so long as you keep the receipt!

[Empty V]

I'm all about the Optima Yellow Top. I left my system on for 35 min at 50% volume and it started right up. Lot's of cranking amps in those babies.

Billy
Modified by Empty V at 12:22 PM 6/19/2009

[UndeGuy]

Unfortunately, I've thought a little more about using the headlamp relay... no can do.

The problem arises from the fact that yesterday, I left my key in accessory position for the radio to play, but the moment I opened my doors, the headlamps were off. Which means you can't use the radio in the accessory position without it going off after a set time.

OOOHHHH, I know what comes ON when the door opens.. the dome lights! Well, when they're in the "door" position. But the lights go off when I put the key to "ON."

I think, either way, I need TWO power sources... with a NEW relay somewhere in the mix (so it doesn't short out). Hum... what if I put two one-way (polarized) LEDs?!? One on each wire before combining them for the radio. That way, power can't run in the wrong way. And with the added bonus of lighting up he place, if you strategically position it. =.='

Is it me, or is this just getting more and more complicated?

I like that dash mod... but thinking about pulling the dash apart feels so daunting. I saw slickroger's pic for when he did his fog mod (grounding it)... and when thinking about opening the panel on the steering column, all I could think was "URGH."