THANK YOUBronze MFP wrote:how is an egg any better than those stopleak products? they're all going to clog your water passages!fix the problem right the first time, don't jeopardize your swap for a cheap fix.my god people...
koyo are tig welded.s14 2510’s wrote:these radiators are held togeather by nothing other than soder.
if you want to go cheap and diy route; get jb weld and a piece of metal to cover the hole. and put bunch of jb weld on between and over the piece. it will work. i had it on my stock radiator for years, never had a problem.shally2186 wrote:JB weld works...not sure how long tho....DO **** RIGHT tho and just get it welded..then u won't have to worry about it again
lol, i never said it wasnt ghetto. I was just saying you could do it. I've never done it myself, but it works.Kamin wrote:
THANK YOU
****ing ghetto *** people.
you meant brazed. if that's what you are referring to, the core is brazed, and the end tanks are tig.s14 2510’s wrote:What hold all them fins in? They just float there for the fun of it. the fins are held in by soder. Its a no brainer the end tanks are welded on. But we were not talking about the end tanks.
ya you got it, ill take pics tommorow of the radiator and postBoostsFed wrote:you meant brazed. if that's what you are referring to, the core is brazed, and the end tanks are tig.
apollas: this thread is useless w/o pics. post one of the exact location of the leak.
I braze industrial radiators for HVAC units for a living. Koyo dosnt braze there radiators. When they make the cores of Koyo radiators they dip them in soder to hold the fins in place. The fins are real thin to begin with. I had a koyo for my rb20 swap with a hole in it. I fluxed the spot and melted a small amout of soder onto the hole. I took the pencil and melted it around the hole for a while to get the flux out from under it. Then i put 2 more layers of soder on top. We have a 5000 gal tank at work to pressure test the radiators we make. We test all our hvac units at 350psi in 105f water. After I patched the radiator i took it to work and brought it to 40psi with a regulator and it held for 30 min just fine. Patch your radiator how you want. I was just telling you how i did mine and its held fine so far. My hole was in the middle of the radiator. I didnt wreck or melt any fins or cooling passages repairing my rad. One could probly weld the hole shut if they didnt care about wrecking fins to fix the hole. I have used soder to repair ditbike radiators that get small leaks. If the holes in the end tank just weld it.BoostsFed wrote:you meant brazed. if that's what you are referring to, the core is brazed, and the end tanks are tig.
i'm not trying to get into an debating show down with you, but the fact is Koyo, Fluidyne, and amongst other performance aluminum radiators are NOCOLOK-brazed; go figure...s14 2510’s wrote: Koyo dosnt braze there radiators. When they make the cores of Koyo radiators they dip them in soder to hold the fins in place.
wtf is this garbage? i cant see anything.apollas wrote:http://www.flickr.com/photos/2...1308/