that is the only thing i could think of. for it to have built up that much presure you would have to be running really really hot and get there really really quickly. sounds like you will be pulling that head back off sometime in the near future.Cyberkreig wrote:Yeah. it sounds like you might have compression leaking into the waterjacket. One easy check for this is to let the car idle with the radiator cap off. after a few minutes any air bubbles should disappare. if air bubbles persist or coolant sorta.. surges up and down thats a good indicator.
i was agreeing with you.Cyberkreig wrote:Sorry, i dont get the i'm with stupid. High radiator pressure and bubbles in the coolant are an old school mechanics trick to spot a hg problem. I dont pretend it is anywhere near as accurate as a leakdown, but it works.
ummm, i have never seen a greddy HG in person, however, i am pretty sure that the black film is just the protective sticker that comes on pretty much any new metal to keep it from getting scratched up before install. your supposed to peel that off before you install it.r1jlewis wrote:OK, got the head off last night and found a head gasket problem. Pictures show the black coating is blown off. Now, since it's a new greddy gasket and the metal still looks fine, can I just remove all the coating and reuse the gasket? Also, do you think this happened because I used the stock head bolts? I'm going to get the ARP's this time just to make sure, but the gasket looks fine, it's just that black coating that looks to be bad.And I changed the routing back to the resevour also.
you don't have to run ARP head studs. that has nothing to do with the problem. scrap of the black plastic off of the HG that you were supposed to remove before installing it, spray it with copper spray, and reinstall it and you should be fine.r1jlewis wrote:Is if I clean it up and use the ARP head studs, do you think it will solve the problem? or should I get a different gasket? I really don't want to have to pull it apart again.
that is the reason the head hgasket leaked down. the FSM I got says to do 26 - 32 - 0 - 36- 92 and then turn the bolts 90degrees. and after all bolts have been turned 90 degrees do an additional 90. (don't do the 180 all at once or u cna mess something up) trust me I rebuilt my own SR and I didn;t have a problem. I am actually on my 2nd rebuild with forged internals this time.r1jlewis wrote:Never over heated it, just boosted it up to high from what I've been told. I did get it resurfaced and did a 3angle at the same time since it was off already, just to make sure. Even right now, overheating isn't a problem, but now I'm running about 25psi with a bigger turbo. I bought the copper spray just now, but am still a little skeptical since I'm running that much boost thru it. The FSM says to final torque at 26-32 ft-flb., should a go a little more to make sure?
ok i take back my previous statement. if your running that much boost you should probably have ARP studs. I don't think so anyway. is their anyway to tell? (my engine came with some aftermarket mods such as a 1.5mm head gasket and some sort of aftermarket pistons)r1jlewis wrote:Never over heated it, just boosted it up to high from what I've been told. I did get it resurfaced and did a 3angle at the same time since it was off already, just to make sure. Even right now, overheating isn't a problem, but now I'm running about 25psi with a bigger turbo. I bought the copper spray just now, but am still a little skeptical since I'm running that much boost thru it. The FSM says to final torque at 26-32 ft-flb., should a go a little more to make sure?
i'd much rather jsut buy a torque wrench.bardabe wrote:
that is the reason the head hgasket leaked down. the FSM I got says to do 26 - 32 - 0 - 36- 92 and then turn the bolts 90degrees. and after all bolts have been turned 90 degrees do an additional 90. (don't do the 180 all at once or u cna mess something up) trust me I rebuilt my own SR and I didn;t have a problem. I am actually on my 2nd rebuild with forged internals this time.
From what I see in the pic you have 2 choises:r1jlewis wrote:OK, I put the overflow hose back to original so it can flow out if need be. Bought a new cometic head gasket (which enjuku sold me an 88mm but my stock bore is 86mm and they said it's fine), ARP head studs, torqued to FSM specs but then did a final torque at 68flbs. Everything seemed to be fixed, no pressure in the radiator any more, no more spraying out water in the resevour. Cool!!!Now the new HUGE problem. After getting it all back together, running it around for a while, got the timing all set back up, she ran great and halling butt! So i took it to the track, ran it 4 times. First 3 ran fine (barked fourth gear), on the fourth run she made it almost all the way down the track then Bleweee. Radiator Fluid now in everyline there is, top of all pistons and in the bottom end!! How can i fix this one????