Rack and Pinion issue?

[DaBushmeister]

Hello all! Just bought a 94 N/A z32 (not sure about HICAS, that's a completely new system to me) and to be quite honest, I don't think I've ever had so much fun in an older car before. After searching through your forums and seeing the wealth of knowledge available here, and how friendly the community seems to be, I ended up joining. As said, the car is a wonderful beast to drive, but it has a decent issue with it.

So, from after much discussion with the previous owner, and from my own testing, she has a bit of a steering issue. I guess the owner before him swapped out the Dex3 ATF with regular power steering fluid, but was swapped back to regular Dex3. On the other hand, I have no pump whine, no leaks, the lines are still good, but the steering is still wonky.

When centered, the steering is stiff and rough when turning, and has absolutely no steering return when turning center to left lock, but I have a little return from right lock.

My question is, does it sound like a rack and pinion issue? I was planning on tearing apart the rack next weekend when I have some time off and my base's auto hobby shop is open, but if I don't have to, I don't want to.

Do the legendary Z-Gurus of NICOclub have any idea? The help is greatly appreciated, and I hope to learn a lot from you guys.

[macgiver]

mac,greetings ,since your gung -ho about taking apart the rack , here's something you'll like to checkout first, no disassembly , just under car work. Most racks have what's called a "pre-load" adjustment - L. side bottom of rack is a a large locknut(1") and an "inside" adj. nut(5/8") approx. This tightens the gear-runner under the steering "pinion" , sp'osed to take up slack,backlash ,etc. Some people LIKE a VERY tight adj. which would cause ALL that you describe - the variation from loose to "factory" to very "tight" maybe only 3/4 turn! I bet a previous owner liked it as such.Figure this out FIRST, mess with this FIRST see how a slight LOOSENING does (like 1/4 to1/2 turn looser). IF I'm right - also know that there is a SPECIFIC adj. by factory manual to get it to "specs" too ,that you ought to aim close to! Lastly a fluid flush w/proper stuff should further an improvement IF your correct about "Questionable fluid added" - should you decide to go that far.

[DaBushmeister]

Haha, definitely not that gung-ho about tearing the rack apart, and as said, if I don't have to, I'm not gonna. The Z's going to get a complete fluids flush once I get some time this coming weekend, she at least deserves that much. As for the adjustment, I'll give it a shot today once I get a second to breathe, and I'll swing back by with the results.

The advice is very much appreciated, I can't wait to really start rebuilding the Z, and I know i's only gonna get more intense once the steering is how I like it.

[Ace2cool]

It possible that there is a blown seal inside the pump, but without tearing it apart, there's no real way to tell. Just cause a seal gets blown doesn't mean that it'll whine or anything.

[DaBushmeister]

So, long time no see. Definately was a rack issue. Also found I need new tie rod ends (outer and inner). The original rack was torn up and leaking and just in a sad state. So, new ones in, centered, and now the freaking crossmember wont line up. If it's not one thing, it's another, am I right? So ever bolt will line up except for one of the studs in the frame (one of the outer ones, not the motor mounts.)

So new question: without saying screw it and setting the car on fire, how can I line them up? I've readjusted every way I can think of, lifted the engine, lowered the engine, dropped the member, tried to muscle it with a prybar and hammer, and nothing. The stud is always just a hair from sliding in, and there's just never enough wiggle room to piece it together. Any ideas?

[amc49]

The first thing that would suggest to me is the car being previously wrecked.

One can always elongate the hole after careful thought on it.