Rack and pinion boots

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Peterofdevon
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I got torn boots.

I searched and saw they are an EZ repair for a J30 how about a G50? Are the boots replaceable?

Thanks guys...one more thing to do. Guess all the fun will be gone when the car is all new parts!

Peter of the 3Qs


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Q451990
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Very simple and inexpensive ($10+15 per boot). Just unscrew the tie rods from the knuckle, clean and re-grease if necessary, and replace the boots. I like to replace in pairs, since the process always ends with a front-end alignment.

Heath


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RobertsnewQ
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Although if you didn't catch them right away chances are the seals are worn and they will seep. Don't just replace boots if there is any wetness or the new ones will die quickly.

PopPop
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Has rack started to whine or squeal? R is right make sure components are still in proper working order before fixing. There's a boot made where you don't have too remove Tie Rod End. Just cut off old boot and remove as much of the old grease as possible. Then re-pack joint with fresh high temp. bearing grease and install new boot. The boot is split on one side from end to end and is sealed with small bolts, nuts and washers. The split side faces up to prevent leaks. You save on time and labor and parts.

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Peterofdevon
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No, there is no squeal.

The things just went within the past 1000 miles.

Where do I get these DYI boots?

Thanks so much!!!!

Peter

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elwesso
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get them from Joe!

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Peterofdevon
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Joe is the Man.

He's like my drug dealer...there's a hole in Daddys Q where all the money goes.

P.

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Q451990
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Joe will have the factory boots, not the ones Pop describes... I would lean toward the OEM ones. They're easy to change, should last for a few years, and the only imaginable labor savings would be the time/expense of a front end alignment if you're sure it's already perfect.

Heath

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Jeff Williams
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If you mark the rods, then count the turns, and are careful, an alignment is not really necessary.

Although, it is recommended.

Be sure to clean the rack very well before you put the new boots on.

More than likely the fluid you see will be from other small leaks.

PopPop
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Its up to you which way you decide on. I base my opinions on my mechanical experience since the late 80's. People come to forum with questions with the hope of obtaining an answer or to be given an idea of which way to go that's all! That's the way I look at it ! The one thing I love about automotive work is that were always learning new things and once a person thinks he or she knows it all. That person isn't a true hobbyist or car guy. Peterofdevon you can't lose which ever route you decide to go! I haven't had this problem in years because in some cars the joints are too far gone so the whole unit is just replaced. You can't go wrong by going factory but, as you can see factory isn't bullet proof! It's hard to get the joint cleaned or repacked without separating the joint. The centrifugal force throws grease from joint because the grease is on the exterior instead of interior joint. That said 2 months or a year if you would've to go back into boot again. Would you rather go threw all the R&R work or just remove a boot to have a look. Some people are scared of change! Many aftermarket suppliers offer split-boots.


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