raced another car

[Fenvy]

sheesh, I know racing is dangerous, no need to remind us about it. I didn't get a SR to not to race occasionally.

With that out of the way, I raced a 99 to 04 mustang GT. Dead stop from a red light with no car in front of us. We went to 100+ mph then I slowed followed by him since there are cars near.

Basically we're next to each other in every gear from start of the line to finish, some gear I'm 1/4 car ahead, some gear I'm 1/4 behind, all I could remember is that I'm right next to him pretty much the whole time.

Can't say I'm too happy with the result, I think some tuning would really help the result.

[9240sx]

You sould never street race.NEVER!!!!!You going to hurt your self or kill someone,I dont ever want to hear about you street racing agian!Or ill call the police on you!.....Just kidding.

Iv had some good race's with the 99-04 mustang gt's,But I always pull by the top of 2nd,and all of 3rd.Was the mustang stock???

[spider_slayer]

thats what i'm wondering if it was stock or not. cause i remember i would always pull by at least 3rd and be about a car or so by 5th running 11-12psi

[Luke]

Yeah, i pull away from GT's all day long when running 11-14 psi (MBC doesn't let the T25 hold 14psi of boost without spiking high first).

How is your timing? Any exhaust leaks or clutch slippage? Any other weird hesitations that would indicate fuel/spark problems?

[Fenvy]

it's probably stock, stock rims, stock exhaust etc, that's all I can tell

my car has been runing with hesitation at lower rpms ever since I installed power fc/injectors/z32 maf

the intake manifold makes it feel like I've lost even more torue at low end

[Luke]

Ahh, i didn't know you had those upgrades. Tuning might help, get on a dyno and you'll get a good idea of what's going on. Have you tried checking the easy things:

Coolant Temp sensor - This is really easy to replace and if you've ever overheated you might need one. Go to the nissan dealer and get one for a 91-94 KA24DE, usually about $15 (the S14 one will cause your temp gauge to read very low).

TPS Voltage - Adjust this so the center wire shows .455v with the ignition key to ON and throttle closed.

What is your spark plug gap? I run .28 since I have a little more boost than stock, 14psi.

Run some tests on the o2 sensor, i know you can do it at the ECU. I can't because i don't have an LED on my E5 ecu. By all means check the timing again, it couldn't hurt. Let me know if any of that helps.

[S13240]

If the mustang was stock you definitely have a problem. Raced one of those once from a 15 mph roll and I immediately pulled on it all the way to third gear without a problem. No competition.

[Fenvy]

yeah the v8 sohc one

I've NEVER seen my car go past 10psi of boost on the said turbo

I looked through the settings.... auto peak is on, scramble boost is off, warning/limit/set is at 15psi, gain is at 40

anything I need to change?

[Beemen550]

damn i dont know whats wrong with all of you guy's cars, i kill any year GT on 14psi(t25), they run like mid 14's stock, i run 12's, u should be hangin with the 02 or below Cobra's(dohc 4.6), or at least i do...

[tm_kickz]

I hear you. Most these guys spend alot of money on standalones/power fc, and cant even get it tuned. Expecting to post a I got beat by a mustang post. It just doesnt make 2 cents.

You should of got your car tuned before you even decided to post.

Not trying to be mean.

"Fred you are the man"

[xero1]

i never ran my s13 sr20det blacktop in a 1/4 mile, right now i have a stock setup stock smic with 7psi, how fast will it go in a 1/4 mile, if i shift a 6k?

[Fenvy]

I hear you. Most these guys spend alot of money on standalones/power fc, and cant even get it tuned. Expecting to post a I got beat by a mustang post. It just doesnt make 2 cents.

You should of got your car tuned before you even decided to post.

Not trying to be mean.

"Fred you are the man"

if there is a problem with the car, it probably isn't a good idea to get it tuned

another reason it's not tuned yet is because I don't know what else I want on my car

[spider_slayer]

yea, tuning would most likely help...yet would be a huge waste of money if you are planning on more upgrades in the near future. but, you also didn't say how much boost you were running (or i missed it) but if you were running stock boost then that definitally doesn't help you keep up with a newer mustang. most of us from what i can tell are running about 10-14psi.

beenmen....... please read through the full thread before you start talking. none of us are being beat by mustangs, only one whom we are now trying to help. secondly i highly doubt that you run 12's .... if you can prove me wrong i'll e-mail you a cookie.

[Fenvy]

well,

I kind of want to just get it tuned after i install the exhaust manifold and dump pipe

but now that there is a problem, where I can't achieve desired boost of 15psi on a fairly small turbo (s14 t28) so it might be a good idea to hold off tuning completely until I can isolate the problem, which shoudl be one of the following:

1) setting issue with the boost controller2) leaking via hoses3) broken turbo

how do I find the problem? and lack of tuning shouldn't preventing me from boosting at desired level of pressure, right?

lastly, the blow off valve, fuel pressure regulator, boost gauge, turbo aculator are all daisy chained in a single tube that leads back to intake manifold, would this be an issue?

[Beemen550]

beenmen....... please read through the full thread before you start talking. none of us are being beat by mustangs, only one whom we are now trying to help. secondly i highly doubt that you run 12's .... if you can prove me wrong i'll e-mail you a cookie.

Chocolate Chip please!!! im not tryin to hate but damn its kind of funny when people post about racin GT's and barely beat them, u should be racin cobra's and WS6's, and im sure he will be when he gets his car tuned right

as for proof of the 12 sec runs click my signature and go to Andy's 240sx, all my videos are on that page

[Beemen550]

lastly, the blow off valve, fuel pressure regulator, boost gauge, turbo aculator are all daisy chained in a single tube that leads back to intake manifold, would this be an issue?

that sounds like your problem, your vacuum, the turbo actuator(wastegate) should be hooked to an intercooler pipe, and the boost gauge, FPR, and BOV should be hooked to the throttle body

[wanna.be.fast]

beeman, sweet vids and times man.

I did notice tho on your spoolin vid that you spiked big time over 20psi. Thats nuts, no wonder your hitten 12's . But seriously, your turbo wont last too long havin to spool out over 20psi, even for as short time as its doin it.

[Fenvy]

I think I found the problem...

after reading the manual for the boost controller it seems like I made 2 or 3 mistakes in the settings

i'll get back to you guys

[Beemen550]

beeman, sweet vids and times man.

I did notice tho on your spoolin vid that you spiked big time over 20psi. Thats nuts, no wonder your hitten 12's . But seriously, your turbo wont last too long havin to spool out over 20psi, even for as short time as its doin it.

yah i only turned it past 20psi just for that video, ive never ran it at the track like that, it stays at 13-14 now, but if i happen to blow it i have a spare gtir t28 thats goin on it

[Fenvy]

yeah I watched that video too, pretty nice and you spooled to 20psi smoothly

[spider_slayer]

lol, i stand fully corrected......i'll get on that cookie. but still, just cause you have the money to mod your sr not all of us do. i know my sr is competely stock because i have to save money to buy the stuff i want. the new s/c cobras are pretty darn quick and will eat a stock sr alive even running about 12psi

[Fenvy]

okay... to prove that I don't have a boost leak, I unplug the hose to the wastegate and tried a little rev, and it went up to 16psi

could it be my boost controller? the brain or its solenoid unit malfunctioning?

[Beemen550]

lol, i stand fully corrected......i'll get on that cookie. but still, just cause you have the money to mod your sr not all of us do. i know my sr is competely stock because i have to save money to buy the stuff i want. the new s/c cobras are pretty darn quick and will eat a stock sr alive even running about 12psi

yah the 03-04 cobra's are pretty quick, 13.3@110, i could get a stock one at the track but from a roll it should take me, or it better for $30,000+, a local guy just pulled a10.9 last week at the track, he has ALOT of bolt-ons though

[NY S13 SR]

Did you reroute the BOV and WG actuator lines yet? I'm sure that is a problem, you should run the WG line all alone from hot pipe usually, shortest length possible.

BOV vac line also should not be connected to the FPR / Boost gauge line, it has it's own port on the TB, the bigger one.

FPR, boost gauge, boost controller input, turbo timer input - those are all ok being together from the same source if necessary.

______________________Jeff Holdenhttp://www.heavythrottle.com

[Fenvy]

I don't have any vacuum for the hot pipe.

the only vacuum I have is the intake manifold, near the throttle body.

It's a greddy intake manifold, both side of the nipples are the same size, in fact since I installed it myself, I distinctly remember that the stock one is also the same size on both nipples.

when phase 2 installed it: one hose goes to FPR and nothing else, another hose goes to wg acuator/bov

after I'm done: everything is in one hose, that includes FPR, wg actuator, bov, boost controller brain, boost controller solenoid

I kind of messed around with the settings and turned it to something extreme: 100% gain, 100% manual boost, 0% warning and boosted to 12psi without much effort (maybe about 5k rpm)

Refer to the attached photo, it illustrate the proximate location of my stuff... what exactly do I have to do to make it better?

[Silvia007]

Damn, that's a lot of tee's. I'd use the vac port you plugged for the FPR, then the T from the 2nd port to the brain and to the Blov, then put a port on the hotpipe to the boost controller solenoid, then the solenoid to the turbo. I've used Electronic boost controllers but they never work as well as my MBC so I stick with that until I can afford a good electronic boost controller. The way you Tee it like that I figure would give you problems. My buddy's setup is just like that and I told him other wise but he never listens to me, now he's blown his 4th SR... go figure. I'm not saying that your setup will blow your motor, there's other factors to his idiotness that caused his engines to blow. Anyway, the way I suggested is how I have mine setup and it works flawless.

[Silvia007]

Oh, one more thing, you should try to rewire your fuel pump to get power directly from your battery. Use the factory fuel pump postive wire as your trigger wire on the relay and have the relay switched the power directly from your battery so that during high rpms, there's sufficient amperage going to your fuel pump. Just a thought.

[Fenvy]

that's interesting

I'll see who can weld aluminum in my area and give that a shot first, thanks!

the nipple you want my to weld on the hot pipe, shoudl it be near or away the bov? or rather, before or after the bov or it doesn't matter?

I won't go to fiznat for wielding though

[Fenvy]

by the way, how do I know if my boost solenoid works?

I don't fully understand this and this is pure speculation:

at idle and low rpm when not in boost, there is small amount negative vacuum, I guess driving by the intake manifold

at higher rpm and in boost, driven by turbo through the intercooler then into the intake manifold, the vacuum change into moderate mount of positive pressure

part of this positive pressure is connected to wastegate actuator, and when an excessive mount of pressure appears, the spring can no longer hold against the positive pressure and the arm forces the internal wastegate open and dump the pressure

now, when there is a boost controller, it uses a solenoid that interrupts this process by stopping the positive pressure that drives wastegate actuator, and when a desired amount of pressure is detected, then it opens the valve in solenoid unit to let the positive pressure follow through and shove the wastegate wide open. Thus achieving higher boost

So in theory, the valves in the solenoid unit should SHUT by default until a preset amount of pressure is detected. I unplug the wastegate side of the actuator and felt the small amount of vaccum while the car is idling. I then unplug the entire unit and I can blow air THROUGH the solenoid unit with my mouth. Does that mean my solenoid unit is broken?

nevrmind my engrishhhhhhhh, I am just typing what comes into my head, which is a bunch of run-on incoherent gibberish I suppose

[Silvia007]

Did you do your test with the engine on? Your boost controller gets its signal from the line yes, so depending on the boost that it senses, it opens or closes the solenoids. For the wastegate, negative pressure will only make it hold less boost if there's a continous negative pressure so that's why it's signal should be hooked to the hotpipe and not from the intake plenum. If you have too many things hooked up to one vac line, I think it'll cause way to much mis readings by the boost controllers brain. As for welding in a nipple, mine's before the blov but it shouldn't matter.