Rabblerofflpfft.....Turbo time.

[KATwo40]

So, I have a custom clamp used to hold my wastegate dump tube against the downpipe for support. Over the course of the last week or so, I've been hearing what sounded like a funny jingling noise in the engine bay, near that area. I quickly dismissed it as a loose clamp/bracket and figured I'd tighten it up this weekend.

Well, guess what. That's not it. Today, I'm driving along and I notice random little puffs of blue (oil) smoke from the back of my car when decelerating. Hmmm, how strange. Brand new motor. Turbo is about a year old, or less. What's the deal?

As I pull into my driveway, I hear the jingling sound getting worse. So, just for fun, I pop the hood and rev the engine via hand-on-the-throttle-plate method and I'm able to replicate the noise. Ohhh! I get it, now...that's the sound of compressor blades touching the compressor housing! SWEET...a$$.

So, now I get to send it off for inspection to see if the blades are too worn to keep the wheel, and replace the bearings and seals.

My concern is this...do we contribute this to compressor surge? Remember, I never had a problem with this until about 2 weeks after I replaced the engine. However, same exact oiling setup, with the exception of a fancy custom made stainless braided drain tube with -AN fittings. I know there's oil getting to the turbo, because I've been fighting with the -AN fiting on the CHRA. It won't stop seeping oil (think the fitting has a pit or scratch on the domed portion).

I did run this turbo with a crappy little no-name BOV that was only good for enough flow for about 200whp, around 8-10psi max. This made for much surge. I now run a TypeR Greddy BOV, but obviously it's too late.

[WDRacing]

My turbo did EXACTLY that bro...almost weird how exact it is. I bought a rebuild kit and I'm rebuilding it. My rear oil seal is a different size though, which sucks because no one sells just that seal. So I'm having a machine shop regroove the shaft to except standard size seals.

My oil drain got pinched...causing the smoking. Then my supply line got pinched, my dumbass did it, no oil and 60,000rpm ate through those bushings quick.

Just reassmeble the turbo with new seals and bushings, if it doesn't boost as well as you want it to, then send the turbo off and have the wheel replaced.

180's and Silvia's had no BOV for a couple years. I seriously doubt compressor surge did this. Check those oil lines again.

WD

[KATwo40]

I'm running a -3 AN line with the 1/16" restrictor. Should I remove the restrictor?

[NateDogg]

I would remove the restrictor. 1/16" restrictors are for ball bearing turbos.

-3 AN is about perfect for a journal bearing turbo.

[WDRacing]

Yes, jump on AIM so I can laugh at you!!!

[KATwo40]

Now I'm grumpy.

[WDRacing]

So whats up? Find anything with the oil lines?

WD

[KATwo40]

Nothin' there. But I got a new T3/T04E 50 trim today. I'll mount it up tomorrow and see how she does.

One thing I noticed is that this new turbo spins MUCH more freely by hand than the other EVER did when it was new. I just wonder if that turbo was maybe no good from the beginning.

I'll post the results of the new unit tomorrow.

[WDRacing]

You spend money like I used to drink....

[redtop91]

This thread is depressing. That seriously sucks man.

[KATwo40]

You spend money like I used to drink....

Actually, I got the hookup on this turbo. It's a Garrett internals/china housing unit that my buddy sells in his speed shop. They come with a 1yr warranty (better than the AGP Garrett crap) and they're not too expensive (a few HUNDRED dollars cheaper than ANY of the site sponsors). Just about every freakin' Honda in town is running one these days.

Anyhow, they gave it to me at cost...and that's stunningly low, btw.

If anyone is interested in looking up one of these T3/T04E units from my buddy's shop, send me an email and I'll give you their information (can't advertise on this site).

As for the blown turbo, I plan on rebuilding it after the holidays and replacing the compressor housing. Then, I'll just stick it on the shelf for a backup, in case I have more issues on down the road.

[chandler]

+1 for spending money like barry white in a strip club

[DammitBobby]

My turbo compressor blade rubbed the compressor housing after rebuilding my engine as well. That turbo only sat in my shed for 6 months. IMO I think it is the combination of seals dry rot easily with no oil for a period of time and not properly primming the turbo before starting it up the first time.

[KATwo40]

My turbo sat for a week not running. That shouldn't do squat to the seals.

But you're right, I didn't prime it before startup. I just checked the flow from the feed line, then connected it and fired it right up.

I'll be sure to prime this new one. Getting ready to go swap 'em out in a few minutes.

[WDRacing]

Just pour a little synthetic in there and spin the blades, thats all you should need to do, then fire it up.

Lose that restrictor.

You've got mail BTW.

WD

[KATwo40]

The mail has been returned.

I think I found the cause of failure. Look what I found when I removed the old turbo. Pay close attention to the color of the turbine wheel.



A little lean, don't ya' think?

Let's look at the plugs...





Looks like a little too much timing retard and definitely a bit lean.

So, here's the killer...my LM-1 says I idle @ 15:1, cruise @ 14.5:1, hit around 13:1 @ atmospheric, sweeping to 11.5:1 @ 5psi and holding all the way to 10psi until redline.

I'm a little grumpy at this discrepency, but at the same time, I must say, a blown turbo just saved me a $3000 engine!

I'm pretty certain the intense heat in the turbine probably thinned the oil so much that it just ran straight through the CHRA.

Oh yeah, here's the carnage on the compressor wheel and housing.

[WDRacing]

I'm thinking if it was hot enough to thin the oil that much, you'd have detonation. Those plugs look lean, but there isn't any detonation present that I can see. I've had ground straps completely gone before...lol.

WD

[KATwo40]

I wish I had bought that dyno over the summer. I hate depending on aftermarket DIY gadgets and street tuning. ALL the pro tuning dyno dudes swear that the LM-1 is hardly lab accurate. Now I see why.

[WDRacing]

Huh, well a wideband is a wideband. Some may be slightly better, the real difference being controlled dyno sessions...duh, of course its better. The key is to get it close, then hit the dyno for a fine tuning. You know what ur doing Johnny, it'll come.

[KATwo40]

I should have clarified that I meant the LM-1 controller, not the sensor itself.

And to add to the mix...a new snag. The new turbo CHRA won't fit into the old turbine housing. And the old tubine housing is slightly offset (on center housing, just leaned toward the driver side more) and won't clear the brake cylinder...at all.

SWEET!

Guess it's time to build my own manifold.

[WDRacing]

Yeah, I replied to your new thread. You have bad luck man..lol. Props for keeping your head in the game.

[KATwo40]

I don't believe in luck. It is what it is, and that's the end of it. All you can do is deal with it as it comes, right? Besides, in the end, I figure I'll have TONS of advanced KA-T knowledge to assist me in my future plans.