R51 2011 Pathfinder SV dilemma C1140

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hobe8000
Posts: 5
Joined: Sat Aug 06, 2022 11:23 am
Car: 2011 Nissan Pathfinder SV

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My beloved Pathfinder threw a C1140 code this past week with VDO, ABS and Brake indicators on. All my troubleshooting indicates and confirmed by my mechanic that it IS an ABS Module failure. The truck has 600 miles short of 200,000 miles on it (115K highway). I'm the original owner and its a Florida vehicle. New module is $900 online or $1,308 from the local stealer with them wanting an additional $362.50 in labor to install and program it. My local indy mechanic says the reprogramming is proprietary software from Nissan and he can't do it.

I can buy a used ABS module for $300 but am very leery of doing so. In the last three years I have done the following:

New re manufactured transmission and radiator
New ac compressor, condenser, expansion valve
New shocks
New Bridgestone Dueler Alenza Tires
New Cam position sensors
New AC fan motor
New driver's door window switch panel
...and much more

I am at the point of now wanting to sink anymore money ($1,300) into the vehicle. I can swap out the ABS module myself with a used one and then take it to the stealer for programming but I have heard lots of horror stories about buying a used ABS unit. Has anyone done this to be told by the stealer that it is also bad?

Suggestions on what to do? Spend more cash or list the vehicle on Craigslist as-is? :confused:


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VStar650CL
Technical Expert
Posts: 11927
Joined: Thu Nov 12, 2020 1:25 pm
Car: 2013 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL
2004 Nissan Altima 2.5 S

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C1140 is almost always a crapped relay inside the actuator assembly, so your diag is probably right. There were basically just three ABS part numbers that fit '08~'12, so if you can find one at U-Pullit that's not an LE and has the same drivetrain options as yours, there's an excellent chance it will be plug-and-play.

hobe8000
Posts: 5
Joined: Sat Aug 06, 2022 11:23 am
Car: 2011 Nissan Pathfinder SV

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Thank you! The first photo is the one on the car and the second is the one I found on eBay. Says it is for 2009, 2010 and 2011. No other info. Same numbers on the sticker so you think it will work plug and play?
Attachments
IMG_2682.jpg
IMG_2695.jpg

hobe8000
Posts: 5
Joined: Sat Aug 06, 2022 11:23 am
Car: 2011 Nissan Pathfinder SV

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When I put the vin in on Nissanpartsdeal.com it comes up that the replacement part is: 47660-ZL17D

No part comes up when I search the site for 47660 ZL00C. It just returns ZL17D.

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VStar650CL
Technical Expert
Posts: 11927
Joined: Thu Nov 12, 2020 1:25 pm
Car: 2013 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL
2004 Nissan Altima 2.5 S

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That's the hardware number on the sticker, but the firmware determines what the actual p/n is. The hardware version is probably identical for all the '08~'12 models, which is the source of all your JY "horror stories". ABS-capable scanners can usually upload the internal p/n, so you might want to see if yours can. One sure way of getting the right one is, boot NissanPartsDeal up in your phone's browser and go through the U-Pullit by VIN. If NPD shows the same p/n for the JY VIN as it shows for your own VIN, then it's the same part guaranteed. Some eBay vendors also show the VIN for the donor vehicle, the same trick will work for those.

hobe8000
Posts: 5
Joined: Sat Aug 06, 2022 11:23 am
Car: 2011 Nissan Pathfinder SV

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That is great info and an awesome suggestion. Very much appreciated!

hobe8000
Posts: 5
Joined: Sat Aug 06, 2022 11:23 am
Car: 2011 Nissan Pathfinder SV

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VStar650CL, is it best for me to separate the electronic control unit from the manifold portion on the replacement unit as to not disturb the brake lines and have to bleed out the system to remove air and just replace the electronics portion? Thanks

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VStar650CL
Technical Expert
Posts: 11927
Joined: Thu Nov 12, 2020 1:25 pm
Car: 2013 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL
2004 Nissan Altima 2.5 S

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Most of the controllers are "embedded", there are parts soldered to the board that mechanically go into the control valves. I haven't had a Pathy unit apart, but if you want to try that, disassemble the old one first to make sure it's possible. That way the worst that happens is you find out it won't work and have to disconnect the brake lines anyway. Also, if it is possible to swap boards, ohm through any control coils still in the unit and make sure none of them are shorted. If you find anything suspicious, replace the whole unit.

Bleeding isn't really all that bad if you need to do it, especially if your scanner has Work Support to actuate the solenoids. In both cases, bleed the inlets first so the lines from the Master are air free. Then bleed the outlets (using the actuators if Work Support is available). Then bleed the wheels in the order called out in the FSM, and if the actuators weren't used, make a few test panic-stops when finished. Re-bleed the wheels if the pedal gets soft afterward (that will mean there was air in one or both ABS reservoirs).


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