R34 MFD Multifunction Display Information?

[kenecchi]

I'd like to know if anyone has any details about the MFD circuit boards themselves.

I would like to run the R34 MFD into a separate monitor so that I do not need to have the additional screen on the dash. I have only the Nismo MFD upgrade kit, which includes the two main boards (one which contains the processors and memory and another that connects the controls, wire harness and power) but none of the FPC ribbon cables to connect them together.

I want to simply remove the FPC connectors and use wires to connect them directly. Then I'll just tap the RGBHV signal from the monitor connector. The orientation of the pins looks obvious, but does anyone know for sure, or could anyone verify, if on the main 32 and 30 pin connectors, pin 1 on the processor board should be connected to pin 32 on the power board, for example?

[kabob]

I'm pretty sure you'll be the first person to attempt to do this. The closest I've seen anyone come is to install a complete MFD unit in the dash of an R32.

[kenecchi]

Possibly, I'm not sure. I would imagine someone would've tried such a thing by now, the unit just needs battery, acc, ign and ground to run so it could be installed in just about anything and would work just fine if it had the correct sensors.

After having thought about it a little more, I think the pins probably connect "outsides with outsides, insides with insides", meaning pin 1 = pin 29 on the 30 pin connector. I'll try it and see what happens.

[MB38]

Just so I understand, are you attempting to show an auxiliary source on your MFD display, or are you attempting to show the MFD data on an auxiliary display?

[kenecchi]

MFD data on an auxiliary display.

[MB38]

Shoot the SkyLife guy an email. He did a great writeup on repairing a broken MFD and installing it in his R33. I suspect he'd be a great resource for determining the pinouts.

http://www.skylife4ever.com/2011/02/nis ... -swap.html

[bparker]

I'm pretty sure you'll be the first person to attempt to do this. The closest I've seen anyone come is to install a complete MFD unit in the dash of an R32.

Already been done: http://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/301 ... /20277634/

[kenecchi]

Yes, I've since found quite a few examples of where people have done it before, and actually I got it to work myself last weekend...for about an hour before I blew the sync on my RGB converter. If you have a complete working unit it's not so difficult, my mistake has just been trying to do it by connecting the boards together directly, without the FPC cables. No choice now but to make it work this way since I've already removed the original sockets from the boards.

[kenecchi]

Here's a really interesting one, with someone running 2 MFDs simultaneously, 1 Nismo and 1 standard: http://minkara.carview.co.jp/en/userid/ ... /17417396/

[bparker]

Yes, I've since found quite a few examples of where people have done it before, and actually I got it to work myself last weekend...for about an hour before I blew the sync on my RGB converter. If you have a complete working unit it's not so difficult, my mistake has just been trying to do it by connecting the boards together directly, without the FPC cables. No choice now but to make it work this way since I've already removed the original sockets from the boards.

Have you hooked the video signals up to an oscilloscope or other verification device to see what standard/format it is? If your converter had problems, it could be something like a 240p signal which uses the arcade-style 15khz hsync instead of 31khz, and most modern component input devices don't like that format unless they advertise it explicitly (or say "arcade monitor support").

Just a thought.

[bparker]

I just looked up the specs of the MFD screen I have (Toshiba TFD58W22MW but other models were used too). It is indeed using a 15khz hsync, the max res of the monitor is 400x234 which is certainly not a common format. Also it appears that the H/V sync signals use 5 (!) volts instead of the usual 1V, so that might explain blowing your converter.

Hope this helps.

[kenecchi]

Thanks for the insight. I haven't checked any of the signals on an oscilloscope, so I can only verify that the correct voltages are where they're supposed to be, according to the datasheets for the monitors. I'm actually using the pins for the Sharp monitor's connector, as that one did not have any socket soldered onto the board and was easier to tap into. I think my mistake was indeed trying to use the H/V split sync signal as opposed to the composite sync and I ended up giving the converter too much voltage. For anyone who's interested in doing something like this, definitely use the 1v composite sync (pin 1 on the Sharp connector socket).