R34 engine into R32

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Bigalow311
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Hello,

This might be better in the RB engine section but it also relates Skylines GTRs.

I'm thinking of either a 34-R Nur or N1 long block into a 32-R. Anyone know if it's possible? Reason why is because the R32 RB is old and I basically want to build an updated RB36 (Nur or N1 block) and dump that into my 32-R. Thanks.
Last edited by Bigalow311 on Fri Apr 13, 2012 1:20 am, edited 1 time in total.


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edthemanjp
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Rb26 is an Rb26, it will go in in place of the other one. Differences are the CAS connector or just swap it out and the exhaust cam, I believe there migt be one or two other wiring harness connectors that will not connect but its an easy fix just swap them out.

If the R34 engine has the oil pan attached you will have to swap out the fron diff for an R32 Diff as the gearing is different.
Last edited by edthemanjp on Mon Apr 16, 2012 1:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Bigalow311
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Thanks for the info. R34 engine will hook up to the R32 ATESSA, ok?

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Raybrant
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Always wondered about this too... and about the main differences through the years.

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Bigalow311
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Wikipedia has some good info on the rb26dett. Apparently the N1has better technology and the Nur is just a beast version of the block besides the GT500

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Raybrant
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That's where I got most of my knowledge from but I want more.

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Bigalow311
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Check some of Sean Morries old blogs on the RB blocks. He wrote a lot of details and some lessons-learned points.

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Raybrant
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Read those already too. ;)

I get bored at work.

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Bigalow311
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LOL. I guess only places left are SAU and/or GTROC. There doesn't seem to be much info on this site.

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Gold Digger
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The 26 from any of the three will bolt right into each other. Like Ed said, some connectors and sensors won't work. Simple solution, get a complete engine/trans/ECU/wiring harness set and drop it in and go. And also swap the front diff of the R32 onto the newer motor.

It's that simple...

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edthemanjp
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Can't believe I wrote oil pump instead of oil pan earlier and didn't catch it till now, all fixed.

Yes cas is different may have to swap out exhaust cam, coil pack connectores are different especially the connector to main wiring harness, simple stuff.

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Bigalow311
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Thanks again.

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tyndago
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There is no real advantage, and I think a disadvantage to running an R34 engine. Most people ask a lot more for the red valve covers, and some of the engines that people offer, aren't even actually from an R34. Its easy to swap. They are almost all essentially the same. The only real difference have been said above, exhaust crank sensor drive, and gear ratio. The R34 Super Taikyu car actually used an R33 ECU.

http://www.gtrusablog.com/2007/11/rb26d ... ruths.html

I can make any of the combinations work in any of the cars. Many more things are alike than different.


ATTESA and the engine are separate. The R34 transfer is different than the R32/R33.

GTR Transmissions - https://sites.google.com/site/tyndago/gt-rtransmissions

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tyndago
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Bigalow311 wrote:Wikipedia has some good info on the rb26dett. Apparently the N1has better technology and the Nur is just a beast version of the block besides the GT500
Not true.

The latest/greatest was the RRR block. The later N1 blocks, from what I can tell and hear, have more problems than some of the older "seasoned" blocks.

The Nurs had an N1 block in them.

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tyndago
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Gold Digger wrote: And also swap the front diff of the R32 onto the newer motor.

It's that simple...
Don't forget the diff. I will tell you from personal experience, the cars react fairly strange with 4.111 in the front and 3.545 in the rear. Kind of feels like a super hard rev cut under throttle when ATTESA splits some power out.

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Gold Digger
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Ouch!!!

Sean...how much to hire you as my full time mechanic/tuner? Do daily bento lunches cover your experience? Japanese hookers? Or do you go much higher than that? LOL

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Raybrant
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Gold Digger wrote:Ouch!!!

Sean...how much to hire you as my full time mechanic/tuner? Do daily bento lunches cover your experience? Japanese hookers? Or do you go much higher than that? LOL
:rotfl :rotfl :rotfl

Will help pitch in for Japanese hooker fund.

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edthemanjp
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I hear Columbian hookers are more desireable, in all fairness Tyndago is a newly, happily married man, and cannot be inticed with these things; however, I have heard money, parts, or cars will help with getting what you want.

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Bigalow311
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tyndago wrote:
Bigalow311 wrote:Wikipedia has some good info on the rb26dett. Apparently the N1has better technology and the Nur is just a beast version of the block besides the GT500
Not true.

The latest/greatest was the RRR block. The later N1 blocks, from what I can tell and hear, have more problems than some of the older "seasoned" blocks.

The Nurs had an N1 block in them.
How is that 'not true?' The N1 has better water channels than the regular 24U, right? That's the 'better technology' I was talking about.

I want to build my RB26 but it's a 20+ y/o block and I'm concerned about it's reliability. What can I do to make the block last for another 10+ years?

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tyndago
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Bigalow311 wrote:
How is that 'not true?' The N1 has better water channels than the regular 24U, right? That's the 'better technology' I was talking about.

I want to build my RB26 but it's a 20+ y/o block and I'm concerned about it's reliability. What can I do to make the block last for another 10+ years?
N1 block is a 24U block. Seriously you are better off with a good old block, we call them "seasoned". I've built, and broken them all, and I have no problem using whatever you put in front of me. Unless you are going for 1600 hp, don't worry about it.

The RRR is a tall deck block, if you want to run a longer rod in the engine, you will get some more power, more area under the curve. You will have a hard time finding an RRR block. They were very limited, very special. Very expensive now.

MY BIGGEST CONCERN ON AN RB IS OIL PUMP. They do not like oil pumps much.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ONhuAoKE1ao[/youtube]

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y90t5GnRdnk[/youtube]

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tyndago
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Gold Digger wrote:Ouch!!!

Sean...how much to hire you as my full time mechanic/tuner? Do daily bento lunches cover your experience? Japanese hookers? Or do you go much higher than that? LOL

I am a bit out of practice with the RB, although I have a couple in my garage. I have been manning a desk, and working on the Scion tC race car the last few years.

I love the old engine though, the inline 6 sound is sex.

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Bigalow311
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Wait, no NZ accent? WTF? lol.

I've heard that seasoned blocks are far better than newer 1s. That makes me feel comfortable with my engine noww, thanks.

Thanks for the info on the oil pump. A lot of other Skyline owners have said that Tomei is the best but the Nismo 1 is the best bang for the buck. I guess I don't need to drop a newer R33/R34 block in there so I'm planning doing a build with CP rods and pistons. I'll probably upgrade the crank to the Tomei 1 that has the extra cooling channel. As well, I'll use the Tomei baffle and perhaps the Nismo oil pump. My biggest priority is reliability and safety.

Any other 'concerns' I should have getting a 89 RB26?

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Raybrant
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When did they start making most of the changes in the R32? What would you say would be the best year to own?

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Bigalow311
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The 1994 is probably the best year. It was the year the V-spec II came out.

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Raybrant
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From what I read, the only difference between the V-Spec I and II is wider tires. But then again there's not much info on the differences between R32 MYs, that's why I asked.

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Bigalow311
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Try the info Sean's put out: http://sites.google.com/site/tyndago/r3 ... kylinegt-r

He's been messing around with Skylines for most his life now.

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tyndago
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Bigalow311 wrote:Wait, no NZ accent? WTF? lol.
Thanks for the info on the oil pump. A lot of other Skyline owners have said that Tomei is the best but the Nismo 1 is the best bang for the buck. I guess I don't need to drop a newer R33/R34 block in there so I'm planning doing a build with CP rods and pistons. I'll probably upgrade the crank to the Tomei 1 that has the extra cooling channel. As well, I'll use the Tomei baffle and perhaps the Nismo oil pump. My biggest priority is reliability and safety.

Any other 'concerns' I should have getting a 89 RB26?
I have lived in the US since I was 5 years old, so, sorry no NZ accent.

The Nismo is a good pump, the N1 pump is junk. Had a ton of N1 pump failures. I used them for a while and they were ok, then a few years ago, they all seemed to be letting go. I have failed everything, but the Tomei gives me the biggest warm fuzzy.

CP makes pistons, Carillo does rods. I like both, local companies. Always had good luck with them. Tomei has oil cooling channel pistons. They have a full counter crank.

I've driven 89-94, and I don't notice much of a difference in the base car. They all get modified, so its no big deal.

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tyndago
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This is an older N1 block that my friend already had. Working on it currently. Needs a bit of a clean up. The Greddy oil pump broke, and it had a rod issue.

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N1 water pump - this fits on a standard block if you watch where the top slot/bolt hole goes.

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Carillo rods

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Starting to look at the main bearings. Full counter crank.

Image

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Bigalow311
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Looking good Sean. I love how everything is local to LA country also. Anyways, thanks, I'm just going to build my current block and try to add reliability to it.


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