R32 vs. Viscous diff

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
boomers04
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i was looking at putting on a lsd on my 95 240sx w/ RB25 i wanted peoples opinion on what i should put in for a diff and axles. Did not want to spend tons of money. let me know if i am going the wrong way and what why should i go


jdmser
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I would look for a r33 clutch type lsd with stubs and axles. It will be a bolt in setup and is better than the viscous. I've seen them go for around $300 plus shipping.

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HxC_Nismo
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i would go with either z32 n/a diff (4.08) with 92-94 j30 5 bolt axles, r33 gtst rear diff(4.08) and 5 bolt axles, or 92-94 j30 diff (3.92) with 5 bolt axles. the rb's dont really like any of the stock 6 bolt axles and will snap if you get good traction with drag radials or slicks

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DriftingisLame
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I believe all our factory nissan lsd's are viscous.

But why is this in the RB section. It has nothing to do with RB's.

Cjmartz2k
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Not all, but yes, most. The only ones I can think off the top of my head is the aforementioned r33/r34 "active" diff's (but I think they are computer controlled) and I believe GTR diffs are different, but I'm not sure on that one.

R32 vs. Viscous doesn't make sense--they are the same.

boomers04
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sorry ment z32

Cjmartz2k
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Gotcha--I don't know anything about those, but I'd GUESS they are viscous too. Dunno though.

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BoostFab
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vlsd is worthless, it's ok for NA car, but it's useless once boosted. especially if you got your vlsd from a high mileage cars. invest some money into a 1.5 or 2 way;

Cjmartz2k
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I just hate the way a 1.5/2.0 way makes my car feel/sound. I don't want to have to explain to the girl, who already asked me why my clutch jingles when I push it in, why my car is popping and chirping tires all over the place. I'm pretty sure japanese are incapable of making parts that act OEM, but handle big power and perform better. I don't even have as much noise and difference in handling with my lunch box lockers in my jeep back in the states, and I can have one wheel completely in the air and it won't spin. Japanese aftermarket parts market sucks (especially the price). Sorry for the rant, just sick and damn tired of trying to figure out stuff that will work from the states and shipping it across an ocean.

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DriftingisLame
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My vlsd handled 280whp beautifully. There was no noise of a clutch LSD, and it locked precisely when I wanted it to. Perhaps it would not be ideal for a drift car, but I dont do that anyway.

I cant understand how people think they're so bad when I've had nothing but good experiences with mine... It must mean they had one worn out vlsd and that makes them all bad.

But seriously, why is this in the RB section. We've been having more and more posts that are either very repetative, incredibly stupid, or in this case, completely unrelated to the forum name.

Cjmartz2k
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Yeah, I pretty much agree with all of that. One thing about the viscous diff since the topic is already here though. I liked mine for just drag racing just fine until I wore it out and it pegged legged. It was fine, but I did 2 big smokey back to back burnouts trying to warm up the nitto's, and that's what killed it.

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Shocker
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my r33 diff locks EVERYtime under straight hard accell. However it only locks for the first few feet of a quick donut... then goes to one tire. While doing big sweeping over steers both tires roast.

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BoostFab
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Cjmartz2k wrote:Yeah, I pretty much agree with all of that. One thing about the viscous diff since the topic is already here though. I liked mine for just drag racing just fine until I wore it out and it pegged legged. It was fine, but I did 2 big smokey back to back burnouts trying to warm up the nitto's, and that's what killed it.
that's exactly what i was referring to. vlsd is pretty much sh1t after some hard launches. then you have to take it out to reshims it or put in a new one. most of the vlsd out there are over 100k miles when it gets to your hands. believe what you want, but that's the truth about vlsd.

SATAN
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I know this is an old post, but something needs to be clarified. You cannot shim a VLSD to make it better or grab more. Once they are shot, they are shot. No shimming is going to make it better. Leave the shimming to the CLSD's.

wajouba
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would the VLSD take the beating from a Stock LS1?

Joe
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wajouba wrote:would the VLSD take the beaing from a Stock LS1?
NO

VLSD's are GARBAGE. they dont belong on anyones car that intends to drive it and expect traction.
Cjmartz2k wrote:I just hate the way a 1.5/2.0 way makes my car feel/sound. I don't want to have to explain to the girl, who already asked me why my clutch jingles when I push it in, why my car is popping and chirping tires all over the place. I'm pretty sure japanese are incapable of making parts that act OEM, but handle big power and perform better.
1) tell the ***** its a racecar, and racecars are noisy. if she doesnt like it. give her a bus pass.

2) yes clutch diff's are noisy. it has nothing to do with who makes them. a truck locking diff and car one are completely different. and a clutch diff will ALMOST always be noisy.

the old ATS units were almost silent, and the nismo 1.5's arent bad.

i have a kaaz 1.5 and it only pops and clunks when i really heat it up.

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Coolwhip
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hearing my Tomei 2 way makes me smile. Reassures me that its back there working and acting BUFF.

The feel is awesome as well, changes the car's feel from actually give your car the "sports car" feel.

HPF Chrisk
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I also have a tomei 2 way and its loud but i have gotten used to it.

Cjmartz2k
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My car isn't a race car, it's a daily driver. Factory Ford limited slips far out perform this crappy vlsd and do it siliently.

O yeah, and I don't know how to say "get out of my car and here is a bus pass in Japanese yet "


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