QX4 having problems running.

A forum for the legendary Nissan Pathfinder and Infiniti QX4.
BossQX4
Posts: 6
Joined: Sun Oct 31, 2010 10:17 am

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First off hello. I've had the Infiniti for abot six months now. It broke down on me a while ago. For starts it's a 98 with 198000 on it. It will act like a cylinder misfire in multiple cylinders. It will run fine cold but once it's warmed up it gets so bad it will just die at idle. I am throwing an SES light for the first time since it's happened. But since then I've had the timing belt, water/oil pump, cam seals, head gasket, spark plugs/wires , and fuel filter replaced and the injectors cleaned. I've also had the fan clutch replaced. I'm assuming the problem is ignition related. Assuming so I would thing the only place to turn is a new distributor? If any one has some imput that would hel that would be great. Thanks!


ARKQX33V6
Posts: 705
Joined: Fri Aug 06, 2010 3:35 pm

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You must know what code the MIL light is warning. Without knowing where or what you are shooting blind.
With all the work that has been done (But since then I've had the timing belt, water/oil pump, cam seals, head gasket, spark plugs/wires , and fuel filter replaced and the injectors cleaned. I've also had the fan clutch replace ) you now have to verify all that work is correct.

A simple timing light is needed to verify your timing and advance works. Since head gaskets have been replaced the compression must be verified at all cylinders and do a leak down test. Visually check your oil and coolant for contamination of each to the other.

With fuel filter, and injectors played with verify the fuel rail pressure at start up, idle and higher RPM.

A node light will help with the injectors to see if they are patterning right. Check your plug gap and condition and colour even though they are new.

With these basic tests done we have an initial point without guessing. By the way when was the throttle body, valve cleaned, these vehicle need them cleaned every 3-6 months depending on distance and time.

If you don't want to do this job but want to know how that engine fairs, try running that engine by driving it and staying under 2000 RPM. Make sure the engine and transmission are at operating temperature. Drive it in all gear ranges, 1-2-3-4, 4-3-2-1 and do this at the max of 2000 RPM all 4 gears and listen to the engine torque lock up and gearing. In automatic and in each separate gear. Be prudent and be aware as you safely try this.

Record every sound and get back to us.

What is your max speed on level ground at 2000 RPM. The engine will do all it should and not be near its max HP but within its nominal toque rating. All systems will be brought to work, ignition, exhaust, transmission and you should note any strange feelings etc.

Max torque is around 2600-2800, so stay no higher than 2000 RPM. It will take a gentle right foot to shift smoothly at every gear change but record at what RPM the changes occur at.

BossQX4
Posts: 6
Joined: Sun Oct 31, 2010 10:17 am

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Also, I realized that after driving for a while the temp gauge hadn't moved whatsoever. And thanks for the advice. I just got itbout of the shop and will most likely take it back because his work is garanteed.

BossQX4
Posts: 6
Joined: Sun Oct 31, 2010 10:17 am

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So I've been told it's the ignition coil located inside the disributor. Seems logical since this doesn't have the coil packs like the 3.5. But only problem is I can't find one at any parts store. Is tree another name this part goes under? Or us this even a real part.

ARKQX33V6
Posts: 705
Joined: Fri Aug 06, 2010 3:35 pm

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Not sure what your asking, a coil for ignition is a real thing, a tree ?

ARKQX33V6
Posts: 705
Joined: Fri Aug 06, 2010 3:35 pm

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The distributor house ignition coil, power transistor, camshaft position sensor, plus the cables to the plugs. At the front lower the primary plug must be securely attached, check this also.
If the vehicle runs the coil and transistor sound OK, but you will have to test the spark plugs for voltage because both coil and transistor could be failing. The crank position sensor could also be loose, or failing and needs to be verified.

ARKQX33V6
Posts: 705
Joined: Fri Aug 06, 2010 3:35 pm

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The distributor has a rotating disc that is slotted and has LED and reader that transmits and send info re the crank position. This slit disc and the LED can get dirty with dust etc. The distributor cap when taken off will reveal this and clean dry air blown with a soft fine paint brush used to gently clean the LED and receiver heads and the slit disc mar resolve the problem.

Check out the internals, be careful and put everything back including the connections. I do this as a PM for the engine.

If the cleaning does no effect, then test the components. More sophisticated tools are needed for the wave form and voltage, but at the very least do the cleaning, but be surefooted about it and take your time. While the distributor cap is off, check the underside for dust, carbon tracking and moisture, if dirty it must be made clean and dry.

BossQX4
Posts: 6
Joined: Sun Oct 31, 2010 10:17 am

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So I did take it apart. It was really dirty. I found the part I needed and ordered it. It was rusty. But it is really dusty in there. Any special chemical to use to clean it. Thanks.

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CanuckQx4
Posts: 1379
Joined: Mon May 03, 2010 10:45 am
Car: 2001.5 Infiniti QX4 2WD

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Electrical connection cleaner, $5 for a 4oz can, soak it, wipe it, soak it, let it dry (2min) Reinstall

ARKQX33V6
Posts: 705
Joined: Fri Aug 06, 2010 3:35 pm

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Keep the inside of the distributor clean by using compressed air, 2x a year. If it is filthy then use non residual cleaner but the insides should be pretty clean without cleaners. A dusting would be normal on the split disc and LED surfaces. Try a wipe with a soft clean cloth.

BossQX4
Posts: 6
Joined: Sun Oct 31, 2010 10:17 am

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Update.
I've replaced almost all electrical parts without success. But it seems it is doing something slightly different. It seems like it's having trouble getting the exhaust out or that maybe it's running lean nag not getting enough gas or getting too much air. Do the cats clog up that bad or is it more likely the MAF sensor? Or will O2 sensors cause this problem? Thanks again.

ARKQX33V6
Posts: 705
Joined: Fri Aug 06, 2010 3:35 pm

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What distance has this vehicle gone? Yes converters can clog, but check furl rail for pressure and volume, throttle plate, vacuum, timing and idle adjust

BossQX4
Posts: 6
Joined: Sun Oct 31, 2010 10:17 am

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The car has 188500 on it now. How would I check all that? Thanks again!

ARKQX33V6
Posts: 705
Joined: Fri Aug 06, 2010 3:35 pm

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Throttle plate , look to see that it moves, fuel rail you need a PSIG gauge attached to the supply or return to investigate that the fuel rail has pressure and also volume from fuel filter, the fuel filter should be changed at least every 2 years. You may be starving the engine...


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