Quick stereo question

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Kaioshin1982
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I know this isnt the stereo forum but PLEASE this is a very simple answer I just need to ask quickly. I'm sorry mods but this forum gets so many more hits then stereo...

I'm VERY new to stereo things and from what I read and figured... this is what I've gotten so far

If I was to get two 10 inch single-voice coil subwoofer with 400-watts peak and 120-watt continuous power so which makes it 800 watts peaks and 240-watts continuous.

I would need to get an amp for sure correct? Now, do I need to get an amp that will support 240-watts continously or an amp with at least 240watts peak?

would a 360-watts bridged @ 4 ohms (continuous power); 720 watts bridged @ 4 ohms (peak power) will work fine?

Please I am very new to this any help will be appreciated.

Also what is the difference in single-voice coil and double voice coil? Thank you.


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Nismo1182
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Joined: Thu Oct 24, 2002 6:51 am
Car: Z06

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Kaioshin1982 wrote:I know this isnt the stereo forum but PLEASE this is a very simple answer I just need to ask quickly. I'm sorry mods but this forum gets so many more hits then stereo...

I'm VERY new to stereo things and from what I read and figured... this is what I've gotten so far

If I was to get two 10 inch single-voice coil subwoofer with 400-watts peak and 120-watt continuous power so which makes it 800 watts peaks and 240-watts continuous.

I would need to get an amp for sure correct? Now, do I need to get an amp that will support 240-watts continously or an amp with at least 240watts peak?

would a 360-watts bridged @ 4 ohms (continuous power); 720 watts bridged @ 4 ohms (peak power) will work fine?

Please I am very new to this any help will be appreciated.

Also what is the difference in single-voice coil and double voice coil? Thank you.


What Ohms are the subs? 2, 4 or 8?

When you bridge amps it usually doesnt stay at 4 ohms, it either drops down to 2 or 1. 4 is like normal.

So say those subs are 4 ohms which is pretty much average, and they need atleast 120 continuous so x2=240 so something that puts out atleast 500 watts bridged should be good.

Dual voice usually hit harder.

Kaioshin1982
Posts: 1738
Joined: Wed Jan 29, 2003 4:55 pm
Car: Not a 240 =) Thinking of getting one again...

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so my theory was correct?

Kaioshin1982
Posts: 1738
Joined: Wed Jan 29, 2003 4:55 pm
Car: Not a 240 =) Thinking of getting one again...

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and also would those setup have pretty strong bass for a small car like S13 fast-back?

Justicc86
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It doesent matter if a sub is dual voice coil quad voice coil single voice coil it makes no diff in the way a sub sounds.The reson there are diff. voice coil subs is so you can do diff. sub and amp combos(and yes you need to put an amp on your subs). also never look at peak power of an amp or speaker just rms(continuous power).

example:2 8ohm 12's they each handel 200watts rms then you would idealy want an amp that does 400watts rms at 4ohm.

if you need more help go to your local stereo shop and talk to the pro's they should be able to help you out :cool:

bland
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You will also want to get a amp to cut off the high's going through your regular speakers. Highs will kill your subs in no time.

scruf1986
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Most amps come with built in crossovers. Also the only way you will want to watch the peak wattage on an amp is you want the peak to be below your subs peak. For me anyways because I don't wanna blow my subs. But if it is not possible just follow the rms

k-mart
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You're more likely to blow subs if you have an amp that's barely gets the job done. AKA "peak just below the subs peak". You'll clip the amp before you know it and that's what will destroy subs.

scruf1986
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wait so this mean your agree with me?

k-mart
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No.........

It means I'd rather have headroom than not..........

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Simmsled
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Having more power than your sub reccomends so that you dont clip your amp and blow your subs and then having properly set up gains as to not distort your speakers is usually a good way to do it.

k-mart
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Simmsled wrote:Having more power than your sub reccomends so that you dont clip your amp and blow your subs and then having properly set up gains as to not distort your speakers is usually a good way to do it.


Hey, we agree.......sort of........

but i wouldn't refer to the gains as a means to prevent all distortion.......you can overpower a sub into mechanical distortion causing ripped spiders/surrounds/bent coils from smacking the back plate.......then there's only so much power a coil can thermally take......again can result in a blown sub while the gains are set properly.....

I guess the best way is to listen for audible distortion and know your sub's limits thermally as well as mechanically......

Wouldn't you?

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Simmsled
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Yea, the mechanical distortion limits are becoming less of a problem these days with extended back plates and higher quality materials. You arent a bad guy kmart... you stick to your laurels.

k-mart
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Cool........lets agree to agree on this and disagree about the law of diminishing returns in relation to wiring......

I guess I'll hang around here......try to learn something and make a contribution here and there......

Still don't have my transmission fixed, so all this audio talk is just pissing me off......i wanna hear my P1R again!

k-mart
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Simmsled wrote:Yea, the mechanical distortion limits are becoming less of a problem these days with extended back plates and higher quality materials. You arent a bad guy kmart... you stick to your laurels.


Yea, seems motor technology is greatly surpassing suspension technology.........so, less VC problems and more ripped spiders :(

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Simmsled
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My buddy just took out a 2 month old Image Dynamics ICDQ 10 that had a ripped rubber surround. We put a Kappa Perfect 10 back in its place. Problem solved. Oh yea... the motor is completely fine... voice coils still both 2 ohms. spider is loose as a 3 dollar hooker tho. (just assuming that a 3 dollar hooker is loose, no real experience here).

k-mart
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I'm always weary of xsus limited speakers........

I'd much rather have xmag as my limit simply for the reasons we've mentioned.......


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