Quick Crankshaft Seal Question

[98_Q45]

First off, I am glad the FSM is finally back in business. I've already been able to get reference to solve 2 issues from it.

However, I'm thinking about doing my own crankshaft seal. I've already got the part. Only thing is, The FSM makes it seem like I just remove the fan, crankshaft pulley, and drive belts. Sounds easy, but I also don't want to get caught up in anything too difficult. But my mech wants $250, and I'm just cashed out on this car for the season. It does this "thing" where every few months, everything needs to get replaced at once and it's killin me. Already had to do Rack and pinion bushings ($180+$90) Rear Brakes gave out the other week ($220), battery died (just picked up a $50 walmart battery). Just decided the A/C is likely going to have to wait until next year.

However, this seal is urgent. Has anyone done this before? It seems like you would have to remove some kind of piece and then pry the crankshaft seal out of it. When the pulley comes off, does it have to be aligned with the timing chain? How does one remove the pulley so it doesn't turn while unscrewing it??

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Q45/1998_Q4 ... Q45/em.pdf page em-28

[98_Q45]

Has anyone done a crankshaft seal replacement before? I think I’m ready to get to it...but I can’t find what the bolt size is for it, and I’m also confused as to whether there’s some marking or care I need to take when removing the crankshaft pulley. Is it just an unbolt, and the seal is right there, or do I need to make sure the pulley is aligned with the timing chain or whatever?

[Q451990]

I think the balancer is keyed, so alignment isn't an issue. Beyond that, I haven't done this, so I'm not sure. I know Q45Tech used to warn that getting the bolt tight enough was critical to keeping the timing chain sprocket intact, and that a chain wrench to hold the balancer in place was recommended.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Typically the way to break the crank bolt loose is to put a socket and breaker bar on it, lean it up against something extremely rigid within the engine bay (like the chassis), and bump the starter. After that, take it free by hand the rest of the way.

Both the crank pulley and the crank itself are notched, and there's a woodruff key that goes between the notches. Don't lose that little bugger haha.
Once the crank pulley is off, you should have access to the front main crankshaft seal. It should be a simple pry-out and replace job. If you use a tool to try to pry it out, be careful not to scratch the area around the outside of the seal, or the crank itself, because then you'll have a leak. I've heard of guys threading drywall screws into the seal material and then pulling on the screw with pliers to avoid trying to pry the seal out.
You also typically use the old seal as a drift when you're tapping the new seal in. Lubricating the seal (both inside and out) should be done.

[Hijacker]

I've also had some cranks that are particularly obnoxious to remove where they've seized to the nose of the crank. In those cases, a three jaw puller is desirable, but a pair of pry bars can also help to walk it off. Slide one on to each side of the pulley and just start working it off the crank.

[98_Q45]

Thanks all for the good tips. I’ve not started on the project yet because...I’ve started relocating and ran out of time to use the garage until I get to the other place. With only 1 day to work on my car, I decided not to risk getting stuck doing it...considering I had to also put some other parts on.

I’m not going to lie, I’m scared to do the job myself lol. I would just hate to get down to it, and then not be able to finish it. But I do have a 1/2” tire torque wrench with the 1/2” extensions. Removing the fan and shroud seems to give enough access. I just don’t want to worry getting the bolts tight, wondering if I’m removing the pulley correctly etc.

My mechanic who is fairly reasonable for their work suggested it would be $250 to do the crankshaft seal, even with me bringing my own beck arnley I order off RAuto. I won’t say thats too much, but would it make sense to pay that much for such a relatively easy job? (I did valve cover gaskets myself, but most mechanics want like $400 for it...I personally think THAT is a $250 job to me)