quick, cheep HP

[Sleeper s13]

I am desperate for some cheep all motor HP. i have come to the conclusion that i can live without my ac to gain some. i wouldnt attempt removing the pump itself without profesional help but the belt is another matter. according to chilton the 240's belt configuration is about 3 belts running 5 things all off of the crank. The ac belt also runs the idler pulley which is something that i need, so just cutting it is out of the question. Its the furthest bellt back which means that all the others will half to be removed first. I would then need a belt that could just simply run the idler pulley off the crank which i obviously dont know the size for. If anybody has done this before help would be appreciated:help

[JNM240]

No, the idler pulley means the pulley is idle. It doesnt do anything. The 2 belts you NEED are the altenator belt and the power steering/water pump belts. You can just remove the AC belt. Now you wont see any HP just from doing this, unless your AC was on all the time.

About the cheapest quickest HP you can get is by removing the lower half of your air intake box and rubber banding your filter to the top half. While you are at it, also remove the air box resonator located under the fender lining on the drivers side. Thats about it.

[Sleeper s13]

No, the idler pulley means the pulley is idle. It doesnt do anything. The 2 belts you NEED are the altenator belt and the power steering/water pump belts. You can just remove the AC belt. Now you wont see any HP just from doing this, unless your AC was on all the time.

About the cheapest quickest HP you can get is by removing the lower half of your air intake box and rubber banding your filter to the top half. While you are at it, also remove the air box resonator located under the fender lining on the drivers side. Thats about it.

Thanks for the info, but i was told the existance of the belt draws some power. i have already done everything possible to the intake.:pface

[keepingthe240]

I read that the a/c uses 3 hp even when it is off.....on the '99 honda civic si. Use a sharp knife and cut the belt if your not wanting to take the other belts off.

[BadAzz240]

People put a resistor in there Intake Temp. sensor or their Thermostat sensor and it tricks the computer into thinking the car is running cooler than it actually is and it in turn advances your timing. I tried it and it worked good untill I shut off my car then it wouldnt start till I re-connected the sensor without the resistor in it... One thing though, depending on the mileage you may want to take off your throttle body and use carb cleaner and get all the carbon build up out of there. Mine was black, now is nice and shiny, idles better and response is a little better too. Also clean your idle air control valve mine was covered in carbon as well.

[Slash88-300zxt]

JNM240... what sort of times do you run with your mods..

[91nis240]

what will tricking your ECU into thinking your engine is getting colder air do?? There will be no performance gain in that. Your engine gets a performance gain from colder air b/c it is more dense than hot air, which means it will combust harder once it explodes inside the cylinder. So if there no actual cold air, there will be no gain.

[240canuck]

the engine thinks it is colder ie not warmed up yet so it uses more fuel and increases timing which equals more power you can do this with a different thremostat as well I belive. anyway when the car is cold it is harder to keep running so it does these extra things to make it run better during start up ie. advance timng use more fuel.

[777aaron]

It will knock off about 5-7 m.p.g. too.

[SigmaNIN]

lol hey 240canuck power is made for all engines when air and fuel are burned the more fuel AND air that is burned the more power.. with ur super setup there all u get is more fuel and no air so u run rich.

[Dattebayo]

look when your engine computer identifies your engine as being COLD at startup, there is a system the allows for extra air intake (as per the fsm) to the injection manifold that stabilizes the air/fuel reaction to a point of warm-up FOR THAT PUPOSE ONLY. I dont know of any real performance gain from that except possibly in the low end, and putting a resistor in line with that sensor is going to gum up your engine with excess fuel residue. You are better off spending your time somewhere else like an intake.

[Hurrikane]

He right.more timing more power.try this test.set your time to the stock setting. go out to the street . put your foot into it .take note on how the car feels.go back and jack the timing up to around 37deg.if the valves make noise back off 2degs.go and get into it again.see if the car feels better.hot air less timing lower power.cold air more timing more power.colder air and fuel take more timingto light it off.buy putting in the 3.3oms res you keep the timing from retarding.and loesing power.i have a air fuel gauge on my car.and it does not run rich.get one it take all the gess work out.and the light are cool to.

[Holisticbeatz]

One word: NOS

[C-Kwik]

People put a resistor in there Intake Temp. sensor or their Thermostat sensor and it tricks the computer into thinking the car is running cooler than it actually is and it in turn advances your timing. I tried it and it worked good untill I shut off my car then it wouldnt start till I re-connected the sensor without the resistor in it... One thing though, depending on the mileage you may want to take off your throttle body and use carb cleaner and get all the carbon build up out of there. Mine was black, now is nice and shiny, idles better and response is a little better too. Also clean your idle air control valve mine was covered in carbon as well.

You could just advance the static timing by turning the distributor to acheive similar results. Just make sure you use a higher octane fuel and make sure you don't detonate.

[yellow_jacket]

The air/fuel gauge that Hurrikane probably has(the ones with the little lights that tap into your O2 sensor) are not accurate.

Putting in a higher resistance value WILL richen the mixture up.

[96_S14_SE]

Im with YJ, get a 5 wire wideband sensor on there and a real gauge, and you will see.

Plus I wouldnt take advice from someone who says to crank the static timing on a ka to 37 degrees. I get the fastest times right around 22 btdc, and have a little peppier low end. At 24 it pulls nicer up top, but tends to miss here and there on those 100+ days even on 93 octane..

That little bost in low end is nice for the auto-x, I would hate to see what 37 would be like.... What kinda fuel do you reccomend one run at that setting??? BTW thats not your valves making noise but uncontrolled explosions called detonation.

Oh and it is an "OHM"

[rob9246]

wtf? i dont understand, why not just advance the timing normally?who knows what else the ecu will do on cold start. prob weird mixtures and everything

rob

People put a resistor in there Intake Temp. sensor or their Thermostat sensor and it tricks the computer into thinking the car is running cooler than it actually is and it in turn advances your timing. I tried it and it worked good untill I shut off my car then it wouldnt start till I re-connected the sensor without the resistor in it... One thing though, depending on the mileage you may want to take off your throttle body and use carb cleaner and get all the carbon build up out of there. Mine was black, now is nice and shiny, idles better and response is a little better too. Also clean your idle air control valve mine was covered in carbon as well.