Questions on owning an Active Q45...

[DuDro]

...after searching through over 80 threads, I still want to know whether getting an Active Q45 is worth it.

There were numerous threads stating the incredible ride and handling, but at what cost (annual maintenance)?

I was not able to determine what the maintenance cost would be for keeping a 1995 Q45a up to factory specifications.

Can someone advise? Thanks in advance!

[Q45tech]

My guess is that an active Q would cost $500 per year more than a non active PRORATED from day one. $5,000 per 10 years

Maintenance and repair costs on a 94-95 standard are lower than those of the 90-93.

The 1.5-2 mpg you might lose over a standard could cost $200 per year/15k

The problem with PRORATION is it can ALL hit you tomorrow, then you have to drive the car another 5-10 years to recover.

Using Texasoil recharged accumulators saves a bundle - multi thousands.

Everyone standards are different! I spend $3,000 per year PRORATED on maintenance and repairs on my old Q and have for the past 10 years.Spent zero on paint or glass or interior except one $300 windshield but did replace both front ppitted headlight assemblies.

Finding an expert to maintain and service can be a challenge in some locations

[96Qowner]

Once texasoil has recharged your original accumulators, the maintenance costs are quite low - only the cost of refilling the nitrogen every 60K miles or so - no big deal. Without his adaptation, the cost would be absolutely prohibitive.

As far as other complications, I haven't read of many NICO members having more trouble with the Active than the standard.

[elwesso]

the thing with the active is you GOTTA find one thats not trashed... Its not like its all good once you replace the accumulators. youll have to replace actuators (struts) if they leak because the fluid wasnt changed and dust boots were not kept new...

The accumulators are just the tip of the iceberg.....

in my opinion, its simply not worth it for the active suspension. I have an article (well jesda has it) about how the active Q doesnt handle better numericlaly than the standard Q, even with its 20mm rear bar..... If your going into an active for handling, your in it for the wrong reasons. If you want it because its the most advanced suspension on any car of its time and has been until the newish MBs, then your in it for the right reason.

Remember also that you still have to replace rubber parts! The only free lunch you get is the struts as long as they dont leak!

The active can be kind of fussy. even if you have done everything right, things may not always work perfectly..... The Q is already a really fussy car as it is.

The Q with cali custom springs and tokico blues is certainly the best handling you can get for the money.

[ddrumman]

I have an article (well jesda has it) about how the active Q doesnt handle better numericlaly than the standard Q, even with its 20mm rear bar..... If your going into an active for handling, your in it for the wrong reasons. If you want it because its the most advanced suspension on any car of its time and has been until the newish MBs, then your in it for the right reason.

I'm a curious though.

Shouldn’t the most advanced suspension of its time be THE reason why it should handle decisively better?

D.

[Q45tech]

Tires/weight are 90% of handling, If you could find tires better than the Michelin Sports that came on Q in a stronger size [new wheels] then you could exceed orginal performance............the extra weight of the active system negates any gain.The 15 x 6.5 wheels limit choices you would need 17" x 8-8.5 to gain significantly.Also the active system gives up once you exceed 0.55G to avoid non expert drivers from losing it without the signals from body roll.

So you could say from 0.00G to 0.55G the active is very superior. Ride and braking dive.

Unfortunately handling requires how the system performs at 0.8-0.85G that's when it and the standard version are ~~equal.

[elwesso]

http://www.q45.org/active/

as tech said, the tires are ALWAYS the limiting factor, at least on the Q.

Maybe the active would be better if you had one of those controllers to make active keep the car level at higher than .55g.

i would be interested to see how a standard Q with some 17x8.5 with really good tires would compare to an active Q with the same steup.

[EQwhipD]

I have a what used to be an active Q. After doing extensive research, I found that the car would be better by swaping out for regular suspension. If I am not mistaken, the active is in the car for comfort, not performance. The 20mm rear anti-sway bar is there for performance. I have another Q without any sway bar, and the body roll is ridiculous on it, as compared to the active. The 20mm bar makes a HUGE difference in cornering etc.Texasoil recharges are very inexpensive, but Wes was right when he said that there a lot more components tt he system that can go wrong. Trust me, a 12 y/o car is bound to have alot go wrong with it. As mentioned many times before, handling can markedly be improved by switching suspensions (regular to T-Blues) and choice in tires. I strongly suggest you add the active swaybar to the rear and trust me, you will feel confident going into any turn at any speed. I remember one person did advise once that the active sway bar can not easily be added to a standard because actives have different mufflers that hang a little lower to allow the anti-sway bar to be positioned there. Maybe I am incorrect in recollection?

-EQwhipD

[96Qowner]

If I am not mistaken, the active is in the car for comfort, not performance.-EQwhipD

Bingo. If you want a luxury sedan that howls around corners like a 350Z, you probably should be getting a 350Z. If you want ride, comfort, advanced features, AND performance, the Q45a would be a great choice. It's the ride, not the ability to set skidpad records.

Some people love the Active, some don't. I would have bought an Active if I'd known about it when I got my '96, irregardless of the few hundred/year extra it would cost me.

[Q45tech]

Most used for sale Q need: $3000-$10,000 to make them mechanical near new, what you don't want to do is buy an early active that needs $8,000-$15,000.

I have had to show and explain to a potential active buyer an $11,000 list of things that need fixing and that included my estimate of Texasoil 9 accum recharge plus 2 active shocks. The body band paint and interior was very good [good color choices: maroon, gray, black]

[tkd_q45]

If you have the time and money and our a major DIYer, I think an Active would be great. I have an Active but have neither the time or money! Mine does handle great but I am running 18" rims. Cornering, even with flat accumulators is really flat.

When my system is (was?) working, the ride is great. You don't feel expansion joints, you just hear your tires thud over them.

GQJay - any more you'd like to add? Jay's had alot of experience w/fixing active suspension issues.

[lino]

.....but I am running 18" rims. Cornering, even with flat accumulators is really flat.

What rims and tires sizes are you running?

[elwesso]

according to previous posts, 18in Q45 wheels and 245-45-18

[96Qowner]

Most used for sale Q need: $3000-$10,000 to make them mechanical near new, what you don't want to do is buy an early active that needs $8,000-$15,000.

I have had to show and explain to a potential active buyer an $11,000 list of things that need fixing and that included my estimate of Texasoil 9 accum recharge plus 2 active shocks. The body band paint and interior was very good [good color choices: maroon, gray, black]

I've put $6500 into my '96 getting it back into shape. It's been stressed on the forum before, but not recently, that the G50 is a $10,000 car. I'm glad to see this come up again.

At this point in the car's age, there are two camps - one that wants to drive a restored luxury sports sedan for a fifth of its original cost, and another that sees the fantastic value in a fine old car that's well past its prime but can be modded for some great fun.

Would it fair to estimate an additional $3000 to bring an active back into shape? There's a point of diminishing returns, of course. But to make it "proper" again - how much extra? I believe Keith is about $1000 for all 7 accumulators, plus R&R labor, plus a few other bad parts.

It's also important to remember that a standard suspension will also need a lot of restoration work. I've spent almost $2000 on mine - struts, bushings, rubber, arms, etc.